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  • Upcoming Events

    • 15 February 2025 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      1  
      Returning guest presenter Aaron Wilson is back for another exciting discussion. This time, we'll be talking about...
      The Science of CYA: How to Keep the Customer Safe, Document Your Work, and Not Get Sued
      We take on a lot of liability as appliance repair techs, and that can get us into sticky situations whether we've done anything wrong or not. Aaron will be teaching us all about how to navigate this side of the trade.
      We'll start by going over a tragic, real-world case study where a sloppy installation had lethal results, analyzing exactly how the installer's negligence caused this. From there, our scope will expand to what kind of safety precautions we should implement in our own work, both for the customer's sake and for our own.
      But even if you do everything perfectly, there's still the famous "technician witch hunt." Well, we'll also talk about how to deal with that by thoroughly documenting your work and putting yourself beyond legal reproach.
      A little about our guest, Aaron Wilson:
      Aaron has been in the appliance repair trade for about 15 years, starting out by doing installations before moving on to bigger and better things. He worked for C&W Services as a Sub-Zero authorized servicer for a time and thereafter joined Mr. Appliance of Highland Park in the Dallas area, where he worked for years as the lead technician and field service manager. These days, he's making sure that all the appliances of everyone's favorite fried chicken place are in tip-top shape as the Quality and Performance Consultant for the southwest branch of Chick-fil-A. In addition, he has taught many classes on refrigeration repair and advanced diagnostics, during which time he also developed training material for the soft skills side of things, which he is delighted to share with you. On top of all that he's a certified graduate of the Master Samurai Tech Academy, so he knows his stuff!
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is available to everybody, including you! You don't have to be a member of Appliantology to join the fun.
      When: Saturday, February 15 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to register. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it. 

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 110 volt Kenmore 110.88670100 dryer that recently started working badly. When I would push the button after turning the timer there would be a loud sound of an electrical current but the tumbler would not engage. If the button was pushed heavily eventually no electrical sound. After awhile the button would go back to loud electrical sound and the tumbler not engaging. When taking the top off the sound seems to generate from the circuit board and timer assembly. I have replaced the plug in, the band that goes around the tumbler, and the push to start switch. Whenever I had the top off I would push in the start switch and see a light flash in its assembly. When pushing in the start knob I push the button a little to the right and it does turn on. I have ordered a new push to start switch and a board and timer assembly. Does anyone have any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

Sounds like the motor is not starting. Based on the description, it sounds like the motor is getting voltage, then kicking off when the thermal overload in the motor kicks open.

I would start by trying to turn the drum by hand. See if it moves, or is stuck. If it's stuck, assess the blower wheel for obstructions and assess the drum rollers to see if any are seized.

If the drum spins without obstruction by hand, keep the door open, depress the door switch, press start and try to spin the drum by hand. If it doesn't start, then I would consider replacing the motor.

This is just a summary of an approach I would take, but that doesn't necessarily mean the motor is definitely the bad part.

  • Like 2
Posted
9 hours ago, Prevent said:

I have replaced the plug in, the band that goes around the tumbler, and the push to start switch.

9 hours ago, Prevent said:

I have ordered a new push to start switch and a board and timer assembly.

Plug in, does that refer to the power cord?  Band that goes around the tumbler presumably is the belt.  You've replaced the push-to-start switch once, and are replacing it again along with the timer?  What board?  The timer is listed as no-longer-available, from where are you sourcing a replacement?

Or perhaps the start switch on the motor (not the push-to-start on the console).  The motor start switch is listed as no-longer-available and substitutes to replacing the entire motor.

Posted
Quote

Plug-in on power cord yes. Band is the dryer belt. Board and timer are one unit. I have sourced used parts on Ebay and that is best I could find. Motor I have sourced from a retailer but had to return since they sent a package of parts (rollers and pulley kit) WITHOUT the motor. I forgot to mention that after this started happening I DID get the dryer going and was able to dry some clothes normally with the occasional strange smell and stop at random. I was able to push the start button slightly to the right and the drum turned when the button was pressed. But then it will stop doing that too and go back to the drum not turning (as it is doing now even after it did turn on when checking it empty this morning.)

 

Posted

Update: per Daniel.A's suggestion got drum moving after manually turning the drum while engaging start button. Burning smell came again after disengaging start button. Obviously not enough juice to engage drum starting. Still a need to replace motor? Thank you all for the help.

Posted
5 hours ago, Prevent said:

Still a need to replace motor?

Unplug the dryer, disassemble dryer and remove the belt. Turn the motor by hand, should turn pretty free. It is is tight feeling check the blower are for drag. If the motor turns free by hand set the dryer up to run without the belt. Do a test run to see what happens. Report back the results. 

Posted

If it is tight feeling check the blower for drag?

Posted
44 minutes ago, Prevent said:

If it is tight feeling check the blower for drag?

Item 7 in this parts explode view. The blower wheel is one of the motor.  If something get stuck in the blower or if over time lint builds up it will put drag on the motor. 

image.png.3fa341ab6ab25959c816da5c38e334d6.png

Posted

Yes that is the diagram. I did not realize this. Thank you. Still cleaning.

Posted

We have given up. Disassembled the back, blower was fine just dirty, put it back together, did some cleaning but not much, kept the heater assembly intact (even though I did try to clean lint around it on the wires) reaching my fingers up to feel the heater coils, reassembled, took belt off, (test with belt off seemed fine, turned it manually, did some cleaning around shaft) but with drum out tested again and saw fire around heater/coil assembly. Fire burned out. Took it outside. Looking into buying a more recent model. Thank you for the help. Don't want to give up but parts scarcity plus cost of scarce parts plus worry of hazard are beginning to rear itself. Have had it for 15-20 years.

Posted

Thank you all. Side note how do I determine the cubic feet of this model I was working on? It is a 120 volt Kenmore 110.88670100. It did not say on the info plate.

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