Slow Dip on Rudd Power Vent Water Heater

[dgp]

I have a slow drip from my Rudd Water Heater through the Temp and Pressure Relief Value.

 

The heater is a Power Vent model PVP75FW

 

We are on well water and the water contains minerals which have damaged other appliances.  We have installed a CSI filter recently.

 

So, being a relief valve, I'm wondering if it is "Relieving" itself or if I may have a damaged valve.

 

And just out of curiosity, how many others type "value" for "valve".  I seem to do it all the time.

 

dgp

By "slow leak" I mean perhaps just under a gallon over 30 hours or so.

[Bullstok]

Did u or anone else fiddle with it (the valve) when it was not leaking?

[dgp]

No.  And I say that with the conviction of a man with a 5 year old loose in the house.  

 

I simply noticed a bit a water on the floor, then started to keep an eye on it with a pan underneath.

 

I don't know the formal name, but the valve is the type that flicks open with a finger.  It is self closing with a spring load.

 

I was searching the forum and manuals and noticed that thermal expansion can be an issue.  We have a well and bladder, so I don't know that our system is actually "closed".

[Bullstok]

A well tank acts as a place for the pressure buildup, when the water is heated, to go. Unless there is a check valve between the heater and the well tank. A few water softeners have built in check valves.

Sometimes the t&p valve gets weak.

Sometimes the well pressure switch goes bad and the pump runs a little too high once in awhile.

Sometimes the bladder tank fails and is waterlogged (the pump goes on and off every several seconds when using water.)

Sometimes the t&p wept a little and developed debris in the valve seat and starts to drip.

Sometimes it is actually a symptom of excess pressure or temperature. Not very often does the leak have anything to do with the actual pressure or temperature being to high though, in my experience. 6 out of 10 if you put on a new valve it is then fine.

[dgp]

The system has been working fine for years, so I'd think I can cross off the bladder and new pressure increases.

 

Seems like starting with a new valve would be the best, safe bet.  Is replacing the valve a DIY option?

Edited October 24, 2013 by dgp

[RegUS_PatOff]

I'm not a Water Heater expert, but do you know what the actual hot water temperature is ?

Also, if possible, turn the Water Heater OFF for a day or so

to see if it continues to leak (without the water "expanding")

There have been discussions on wheather to "test" the T&P Valve once in a while, which may flush out some rust.

OR that "rust" may prevent the Valve from closing completly.

Also, have you recently drained a few gallons from the bottom Water Valve to flush out the "rust" ?

 

 

 

 

 

[Bullstok]

Pie.

Get new valve (same rating on tag)

Shutoff water

Turn off power to heater (& gas too if u r the paranoid type)

Drain water out of old t&p by pulling handle till no more comes out (dont let anyone open a faucet while doing this) or at bottom boiler drain

Thread tape new valve (5 wraps should do it)

Remove old valve

Thread in new valve

Water back on

[dgp]

Of course I had the idea of flushing out the water heater only after I had the problem.  That's just me and my endless list of projects.  So, yes, I will flush it out.  And, no, I haven't done it lately.  And, yes, I have done it before.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.  Wonderful site!!

[dgp]

Yamabushi, I owe you a Mountain Dew.  Thanks for the instructions.

[dgp]

The pressure valve looks like a standardized part.  Can I simply go to Home Depot and get something like this Valve?

 

Or perhaps the pressure setting has to match.  I've tried the other suggestions and feel I simply need to replace it.

[Bullstok]

Thats the one. The reason i say make it match is because there are many kinds for many applications. Some are only pressure, some are for low pressures, some are for high temps. But most any valve meant for a residential water heater are fine. That DOES NOT INCLUDE the ones for tankless heaters. They are usually pressure only (they dont have the white probe sticking out past the threads). Note that some water heaters have a longer than standard valve because they have thick insulation on the tank. ie: http://t.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Acme-3-4-in-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-with-2-1-2-in-Shank/203164786/?MERCH=REC-_-tablet_pip1_rr-1-_-NA-_-203164786-_-N&showPLP=false

Try to avoid the cheap ones. Not worth the time.

Edited November 3, 2013 by Bullstok

[dgp]

 Note that some water heaters have a longer than standard valve because they have thick insulation on the tank. ie: http://t.homedepot.com/p/Cash-Acme-3-4-in-Temperature-and-Pressure-Relief-Valve-with-2-1-2-in-Shank/203164786/?MERCH=REC-_-tablet_pip1_rr-1-_-NA-_-203164786-_-N&showPLP=false

Try to avoid the cheap ones. Not worth the time.

I actually did get a pressure valve from Home Depot with too short an extension and had to take it back.  The longer valve was needed to get through the insulation.  Unfortunately, I didn't heed your warning and had to make two trips.  Now all is well.  Thanks Yamabushi.