Whirlpool EP5PHE not cooling correctly not sure where to start

[sgtb]

HI all, it's been a while since I've been here - which for me means everything is working correctly, (last post on this fridge was about 5 years ago).   
Last year (about 10-11 months ago) the fan underneath the back was making a lot of noise and rattling.  Fridge seemed to be doing ok.  I replaced the fan with a new one and it all seemed ok. Recently (about the last month) several times I have heard the fridge "turn on" and sound like it was going to run only to abruptly shut off again.  After the second time I heard it do that, I turned the knob inside all the way off and back on and it seemed to run fine.  Then last week it just wasn't cooling very well - the top of the freezer was thawing and the ice in the tray was melting.  I'm not positive that one of the kids didn't leave the freezer door open or something, but ever since then it seems to be not cooling well.  I've turned it off and on at the temp knob a few times just to make sure that it seems to be running and the compressor is getting power.

I'm not really sure where to go from here. I looked at the pdf: flow chart  (http://fixitnow.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/39305150-Warm-Refrigerator-Troubleshooting-Flowchart.pdf)   and think that I'm at the "Is the compressor running?" diamond.  I don't know how to tell if it is a sealed unit, or where to check the start relay (but the relay sounds like it might be the problem based on my car fixing experiences).

(Also, sorry if this should be in a different section - I couldn't seem to post in the Kitchen Appliance Repair forums that my previous post are in).

All help and advice is greatly appreciated!!!

[sgtb]

(Also, just a thought looking through my old post - about previous problems with this fridge cooling properly:  
There is no frost this time so I don't think the kids actually left it open like the other time the vents all got frosted over.  Things are actually not staying frozen over several days on the top shelf.  Also the coils underneath have been blown out/vacuumed out several times over the last few years and was the first thing I did when I heard it making funny "stoping" noises.  It's almost sounds like an over pressure switch is tripping or something... because of the initial ramp up in pressure then abrupt shut off--  But I don't know if this fridge has a switch like that.)

[sgtb]

Any help out there?  I could really use some advice on if this can be fixed easily, or if it is better just trading in on a different model.  Thanks.

[Captain Dunsel]

I look up the correct model number from your old post. Sounds like the clod control part numberPart number: 2198202  Very common and can be erratic.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Is the compressor actually running or is it periodically trying to run and stopping? You can tell by feeling the compressor. Best way is with a current measurement. 

[sgtb]

I'll check tonight.  I've been thinking that the compressor is actually running, at least some of the time, at least at a reduced capacity because it's still cool most of the time, but not working like it should (or used to even a month ago).  the freezer is mostly staying cold, but seems to thaw more than it should on a normal defrost cycle about every other day or so.  

Now that you mention it, though, I've never actually checked it with a meter when turning the knob.  

[sgtb]

Update:

well, wife decided to just get a new fridge anyway because this one seems to have cosmetic issues on the inside as several of the drawers have gotten broken by kids slamming the door without them shut al the way and on the outside as well since the white parts on the handle and such look dirty about 5 seconds after you clean it.  

It will probably get put in the garage for a bit and get a good total defrost (and I'll also be able to get to the back to check parts without it needing to be in everyday/hourly use the whole time. If it seems to be having the same issues after that, I'll have a little more time to fix it and then probably sell it or donate it to a local shelter/mission or something.  Be back in a week or so I guess... 

 

[sgtb]

Captain Dunsel, Sorry I missed your post the other day. Thanks for your help.  I'll probably be working on this next week to see if I can get it working well enough to keep as a garage box or sell rather than just scrapping to a recycling center or something...  How would I go about checking the controller? Is it simple like using a multimeter to check for resistance?  Do I need to check both the freezer and the refrigerator controllers?

Samurai Appliance Repair Man, I'll also check the compressor now that it's had a chance to totally thaw out, I should be able to give you a good idea if it is working if it gets cold at all.  Also, is there a particular measurement I should look for to see if it's running at an optimal level? 

I also guess I'll be checking to see if the evap coil is freezing over or something now that I can actually get to the back of it. 

be back soon.

thanks.

 

 

[sgtb]

On 2/28/2016 at 2:44 AM, Samurai Appliance Repair Man said:

Is the compressor actually running or is it periodically trying to run and stopping? You can tell by feeling the compressor. Best way is with a current measurement. 

Hi, finally getting back to this project.  I put fridge/freezer in garage for now and had a chance to let it totally thaw out and cleaned out the coils on the bottom with compressed air and a shop (for the big stuff).  Then after a few weeks, I plugged it back in and it seemed to be getting cold. Compressor is running, enough to get water to freeze in the freezer, but will only stay cold if every other day or less I turn the knob all the way off and then back on.  Then compressor boots back up etc.  I am not sure how to check the amperage (assuming that's what you mean and not voltage) of the compressor.  I know you have to put a VOM in the circuit (or at least I think that's how) to check amperage rather than just in parallel like for volts.  I don't know where to attach the meter for that.  

However, I'm thinking it is likely the thermostat switch that Captain Dunsel mentioned above but wanted to make sure that was the next best place to try a fix that involves spending money rather than time... 

[evaappliance]

5 hours ago, sgtb said:

Hi, finally getting back to this project.  I put fridge/freezer in garage for now and had a chance to let it totally thaw out and cleaned out the coils on the bottom with compressed air and a shop (for the big stuff).  Then after a few weeks, I plugged it back in and it seemed to be getting cold. Compressor is running, enough to get water to freeze in the freezer, but will only stay cold if every other day or less I turn the knob all the way off and then back on.  Then compressor boots back up etc.  I am not sure how to check the amperage (assuming that's what you mean and not voltage) of the compressor.  I know you have to put a VOM in the circuit (or at least I think that's how) to check amperage rather than just in parallel like for volts.  I don't know where to attach the meter for that.  

However, I'm thinking it is likely the thermostat switch that Captain Dunsel mentioned above but wanted to make sure that was the next best place to try a fix that involves spending money rather than time... 

I also think the captain is correct ?

[Hiroshi]

next time it seems too warm, and it is quiet when you know it should be running, give a rap with your knuckles next to the refrigerator temp. control knob- if the machine kicks on, it is the cold control for sure. (Arthur Fonzarelli Method)

[sgtb]

On 8/2/2016 at 8:52 AM, Hiroshi said:

next time it seems too warm, and it is quiet when you know it should be running, give a rap with your knuckles next to the refrigerator temp. control knob- if the machine kicks on, it is the cold control for sure. (Arthur Fonzarelli Method)

Alright. I'll have to plug it back in and let it get cool first.  I can't remember if I did that or not - but either way I didn't really pay attention to whether it kicked on or not.  I know it does if I turn the knob down and back up.  I also can't remember at this point if I had to turn it all the way off or just to less cool before it would kick back on.  When I pulled out all the covers and everything I did not see any obvious signs of burnt contacts or foul play on any of the wiring by the switch or compressor which is why I was confused if this could really be the problem.  

 Thanks.

 

[evaappliance]

also you will usually see rust colored metal shavings under the thermostat if it is bad . 

[Hiroshi]

It is a hard symptom to pin down as the problem begins, it will be intermittent at first, and increase in frequency as the contacts inside the cold control degrade... (the degrading contacts make the shavings Budget mentioned)