Amana LEA30AW Dryer Shutting off Mid Cycle

[cc164074]

I have the above dryer that was working fine.  I recently moved the dryer to a new laundry room.  All new solid vent pipe was installed.  I ran the first load through with no problem.  During the second load, the dry shut down.  I unplugged it, turned the timer to the end of the cycle, plugged it back in, reset the timer and it started back up for about a minute and then shut down again.  The motor was replaced about 3 months ago.  At that time the whole dryer was disassembled and cleaned.  The blower fan is moving easily.

I removed the heating element, cleaned and tested for continuity and found it to be in good working order.  I replaced the thermostat on the heating element housing.  The only other thermostat I see is on the blower housing (not replaced).  If I run the dryer on the delicate setting (low heat) it will run all day.  Any ideas?

[sh2sh2]

How long is the new vent? Are we sure that the flapper on the outside is opening

[evaappliance]

double check your power for correct voltage when it shuts off 

[SWORLD]

Check your door switch it may be intermittent or where it has the quick disconnect to the wire harness it may be loose.  Also I would check the quick disconnect on the motor itself.

[cc164074]

100% on the vent flapper.  The Vent is approximately 20' of solid metal pipe taped at all seams.  There are 4 elbows.  That may be pushing the envelope but not much of a choice.  It is shorter than the previous vent line by about 6'.  There is very good air flow vent hood outside.  

[cc164074]

Power is good.  120v on both legs when dryer shuts down.

[cc164074]

I did notice that the door rocks a little on the clasp.  That could be it, but the dryer would restart immediately. The switch itself has not dead spots.

[cc164074]

It really seams as though the element is overheating and the Limit Thermostat is shutting it down.  I'm going to test the element again.  Maybe I missed something.  I will also run a couple of small loads with the vent disconnected.  

[sh2sh2]

19 hours ago, sh2sh2 said:

How long is the new vent? Are we sure that the flapper on the outside is opening

 

[SWORLD]

That thermostat that you have not replace by the blower is the  cycling thermostat, part #  WPY504514.  I cant find a wiring diagram for your unit. But that may shut off the motor if it opens up. Generally speaking all thermostats take a bit of time to reset so, with you unplugging and plugging it back in and hitting start so quickly. It is hard to think it would be a thermostat.  Now if you listen closely and can hear a small click, in between you plugging in and out, it will be a thermostat.  And more in likely that one. 

[lvasquez11]

was blower wheel replaced along with motor . 

after it shuts down during a cycle - ohm out overload on motor quickly - 

open thermal fuse Part number: 40113801 would give you no heat. so out of the question

 

[evaappliance]

If the motor is shutting down , it would take about 15 minutes for it to run again no matter what you did, so if you are there when it shuts down and get it to come back on very quick I think it will not be the motor.  Any of the thermostats on this machine will not cause the motor not to run .  I think I would try drying a load or two without the vent hooked up to rule the vent out. If it shuts off with the vent off you are down to three possibilities , power, motor ,or timer . 

[cc164074]

12 hours ago, SWORLD said:

That thermostat that you have not replace by the blower is the  cycling thermostat, part #  WPY504514.  I cant find a wiring diagram for your unit. But that may shut off the motor if it opens up. Generally speaking all thermostats take a bit of time to reset so, with you unplugging and plugging it back in and hitting start so quickly. It is hard to think it would be a thermostat.  Now if you listen closely and can hear a small click, in between you plugging in and out, it will be a thermostat.  And more in likely that one. 

I do hear a click when I unplug it and then plug it back in.  Just not sure where it is coming from.

[cc164074]

2 hours ago, evaappliance said:

If the motor is shutting down , it would take about 15 minutes for it to run again no matter what you did, so if you are there when it shuts down and get it to come back on very quick I think it will not be the motor.  Any of the thermostats on this machine will not cause the motor not to run .  I think I would try drying a load or two without the vent hooked up to rule the vent out. If it shuts off with the vent off you are down to three possibilities , power, motor ,or timer . 

Will try running tonight unhooked to eliminate venting issue.

[cc164074]

8 hours ago, lvasquez11 said:

was blower wheel replaced along with motor . 

after it shuts down during a cycle - ohm out overload on motor quickly - 

open thermal fuse Part number: 40113801 would give you no heat. so out of the question

 

Not sure I can do that.  The motor is not accessible without either removing the blower housing or the drum.

[cc164074]

12 hours ago, SWORLD said:

That thermostat that you have not replace by the blower is the  cycling thermostat, part #  WPY504514.  I cant find a wiring diagram for your unit. But that may shut off the motor if it opens up. Generally speaking all thermostats take a bit of time to reset so, with you unplugging and plugging it back in and hitting start so quickly. It is hard to think it would be a thermostat.  Now if you listen closely and can hear a small click, in between you plugging in and out, it will be a thermostat.  And more in likely that one. 

Just curious, how can I tell if the thermostat is bad, or if it is cutting out due to excessive heat?  At what temp should it be opening?  We have always had a burned rubber smell in our towels.  

[SWORLD]

Very hard to determine if a thermostat is cycling at the proper temps. If you can do it quick enough, once the unit shuts off by having your ohm meter setting up waiting to do a ohm check.  Unit shuts off. Unplug dryer. pull one wire off thermostat. Check for continuity. if it is open that is your problem thermostat. Usually it will take you a few times to get your timing down fast enough to check it before it resets. Godspeed

[micabay]

57 minutes ago, SWORLD said:

Very hard to determine if a thermostat is cycling at the proper temps. If you can do it quick enough, once the unit shuts off by having your ohm meter setting up waiting to do a ohm check.  Unit shuts off. Unplug dryer. pull one wire off thermostat. Check for continuity. if it is open that is your problem thermostat. Usually it will take you a few times to get your timing down fast enough to check it before it resets. Godspeed

Please show me which thermostat you are talking about, and explain how it can cause the motor to shut off.

[cc164074]

On ‎4‎/‎6‎/‎2016 at 9:09 AM, SWORLD said:

Check your door switch it may be intermittent or where it has the quick disconnect to the wire harness it may be loose.  Also I would check the quick disconnect on the motor itself.

After tearing the darn thing apart to test all the components and finding nothing, I fired it up again and it shut down again.  I noticed that because I changed the door from the right side hinge to the left side hinge, the door switch is now on the handle side.  It rocks slightly on the clasp.  When I held the top right corner of the door closed, the dryer stays on.  I had to add a piece of furniture leg felt and problem solved.  One positive note after all this is now I can completely tear down and put my dryer back together in about 30 mins.  Thanks for everyone's input.  It is greatly appreciated!!!

[cc164074]

10 hours ago, micabay said:

Please show me which thermostat you are talking about, and explain how it can cause the motor to shut off.

If I could read a schematic, I probably would not need anyone's help.  That's why I'm on here asking you pros!  Thanks for your help.

[SWORLD]

LOL,  no thermostat will shut off this motor according to your wiring diagram.  It is either in your door switch, broken wire or your motor.

[micabay]

Sworld, this is exactly why I phrased my question the way I did.  The wiring schematic is the go to when trouble shooting.