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Hi, I was drying clothes today and opened the door mid-cycle to empty the clothes. I came back about an hour later and the door was still open and I noticed that the dryer was still heating. I just unplugged it. This dryer was purchased new around 1997-98. I have repaired several things on it through the years but I am not sure where to start in diagnosing this problem. Is it the heating element itself? What would cause it to stay on? Thanks for your input. Matt

Service manual for disassembly and tech sheet needed

Hi, I have a * dryer that just developed a small rattle. What's odd is that the rattle doesn't start right away; it kicks in 30 seconds after I start the dryer. I lifted the top and popped off the back grille so I could see it in action, and I don't see anything obviously amiss. The pulleys all seem to be turning smoothly. There's a hot metal smell (and it's heating and blowing out air), but no burning smell, so that seems normal, too. I took a short video. You can hear the bit where the sound changes from the normal operating noise to the rattle. Video with the rattle starting about 5 seconds in. Any idea what could be causing this? I've been keeping this machine going for many years, but it keeps plugging along with different bits getting replaced over time. Is it time for a new idler pulley or rollers? It's weird, though, that the sound doesn't start right away. Whether the dryer is cold or already warm, it starts 30 seconds after I turn on the drying cycle. Thanks, Erika

Service manual needed thx

service manual for disassembly need absolutely thank you

Service manual and tech sheet needed thx

Service manual and tech sheet needed thx

Electrolux EIMED6CJIW3 keep burning element. Dryer is 3-4 years old. It's been burning out the elements for about 2 years.The dryer keeps burning the element every few months. When the dryer isn't working I take it apart and find that some of the heating coils are broken. The element (part number 134792700) gets so hot that the middle plate is bent out of shape so much so that several times the coil is shorted against the tube. I've replace the element 5+ times. I've also replaced the Thermistor and the Thermal Fuse once. I've tested the Thermal Fuse and verified it works using an electric frying pan set to 265F. I've checked the vent exhaust is lint free. Why does the element keep burning out?

I have a Maytag Epic Electric Dryer MEDZ600TW2 Both the Power and Start buttons are hanging on by a thread. Thinking, oh that will be an easy part to swap. No No, it is connected to the User Interface Control Board which is about $170. Looking for a work-around to get these buttons back to working order. Any thoughts? Image of buttons: https://ibb.co/Yf6kjqr

Need for disassembly instructions

Have the mini manual with the schematic, looking for the full service manual

service manual needed

I need the service manual thx

need service manual thx

To start off I'm new here hello everyone. So i have replaced all fuses/sensors and heating element twice still no heat, everything works fine and no error codes can someone tell whats going on with this thing. TIA!

NEED SERVICE MANUAL AND TECH SHEET THX

Hello, I have an Inglis gas dryer that is taking two or three dry cycles to get clothes dry. It seems to be getting some heat, but not as much heat as it should. This dryer is about 10 years old and I have repaired it before. What I know are good are the: Thermal Fuse (has continuity), Gas Valve Solenoids (ohm values seem ok), Igniter has continuity, dryer vents are ok & clean, circuit breaker is ok, dryer timer counts down as normal. The front panel is one solid piece so I can't really check for gas flames with it off. The Dryer Blower wheel spins and is clean - no clogs. I changed all the drum wheels and the rib belt recently - there is no squeaking noise coming from that. The vent to the outside is clear. The Cycling Thermostat has continuity at room temperature, but I don't have a good way to test it at higher temperatures, so I don't know if it's cutting off too early. I'm not really sure what I can try next. There is some heat and it tumbles and counts down normally, but it just doesn't get hot enough. Thank you in advance for any ideas.

I recently replaced the rear drum seal of my Kenmore dryer, Model 110.66752500. Prior to repair the timer advanced and the dryer heated. Since the repair, the motor will run and the drum spins, but there is no heat and it will continuously run. Any help would be appreciated.

I NEED THE TECH SHEET/ SERVICE MANUAL THANK YOU VERY MUCH

Greetings, I have a GE WSM2420TAZWW Stackable Electric Washer/Dryer that takes 2 cycles of dry time to dry clothes. I have performed the following checks, but still haven't resolved the issue. Appreciate your insights! Cleaned the vent and also had the roof outlet vent inspected. All checks out OK Replaced the thermal fuse(WE4X857) and cycling thermostat(WE4X856). Upon inspection of the old parts I think they were actually OK. Verified continuity across the heater element terminals(will check resistance next time) Confirmed continuity across the thermostat on the heater element box(I believe this is the hi-lo limit thermostat). This thermostat has 2 terminal connectors and cuts off at 200 degrees. After performing the above fixes, when I turn on the dryer, the drum turns and I can see that the heating element turns on as I can see glowing coils from inside the dryer however clothes are not drying in one cycle? Is it possible that the heating element is marginal and on its way out? I wish I took a photo however the glow is very subtle and not very bright? I'm assuming that the timer and centrifugal switch is OK since I see the heating element turning on? I have a heater element on the way as well as a hi-lo thermostat, but wanted to know if I should be checking anything else. Thanks In advance for your expert opinion.

Hello, I have an old Maytag dryer that wont heat. I am no expert and have been working through this with Youtube videos. Its very possible I am doing something wrong 😀 This is what I have checked so far: On back panel where power comes in: Leg 1 Neutral to hot = 115V Leg 2 Neutral to hot = 115V Both thermal fuses have continuity Both thermostats (Cycling and Hi-Limit) have continuity Heating element resistance = 10.6 ohms No short from heating element input to case No short from heating element output to case Temperature selector out voltage to chassis ground = 115V when running Heating element voltage to chassis ground = 115V on both input and out sides when running (getting desperate here) Could it be the switch in the motor that closes when it spins? I moved that switch by hand and got continuity across the terminals but I am not sure how to test while the dryer is running. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks George