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I have a Maytag Epic Electric Dryer MEDZ600TW2 Both the Power and Start buttons are hanging on by a thread. Thinking, oh that will be an easy part to swap. No No, it is connected to the User Interface Control Board which is about $170. Looking for a work-around to get these buttons back to working order. Any thoughts? Image of buttons: https://ibb.co/Yf6kjqr

Need for disassembly instructions

Have the mini manual with the schematic, looking for the full service manual

service manual needed

I need the service manual thx

need service manual thx

To start off I'm new here hello everyone. So i have replaced all fuses/sensors and heating element twice still no heat, everything works fine and no error codes can someone tell whats going on with this thing. TIA!

NEED SERVICE MANUAL AND TECH SHEET THX

Hello, I have an Inglis gas dryer that is taking two or three dry cycles to get clothes dry. It seems to be getting some heat, but not as much heat as it should. This dryer is about 10 years old and I have repaired it before. What I know are good are the: Thermal Fuse (has continuity), Gas Valve Solenoids (ohm values seem ok), Igniter has continuity, dryer vents are ok & clean, circuit breaker is ok, dryer timer counts down as normal. The front panel is one solid piece so I can't really check for gas flames with it off. The Dryer Blower wheel spins and is clean - no clogs. I changed all the drum wheels and the rib belt recently - there is no squeaking noise coming from that. The vent to the outside is clear. The Cycling Thermostat has continuity at room temperature, but I don't have a good way to test it at higher temperatures, so I don't know if it's cutting off too early. I'm not really sure what I can try next. There is some heat and it tumbles and counts down normally, but it just doesn't get hot enough. Thank you in advance for any ideas.

I recently replaced the rear drum seal of my Kenmore dryer, Model 110.66752500. Prior to repair the timer advanced and the dryer heated. Since the repair, the motor will run and the drum spins, but there is no heat and it will continuously run. Any help would be appreciated.

I NEED THE TECH SHEET/ SERVICE MANUAL THANK YOU VERY MUCH

Greetings, I have a GE WSM2420TAZWW Stackable Electric Washer/Dryer that takes 2 cycles of dry time to dry clothes. I have performed the following checks, but still haven't resolved the issue. Appreciate your insights! Cleaned the vent and also had the roof outlet vent inspected. All checks out OK Replaced the thermal fuse(WE4X857) and cycling thermostat(WE4X856). Upon inspection of the old parts I think they were actually OK. Verified continuity across the heater element terminals(will check resistance next time) Confirmed continuity across the thermostat on the heater element box(I believe this is the hi-lo limit thermostat). This thermostat has 2 terminal connectors and cuts off at 200 degrees. After performing the above fixes, when I turn on the dryer, the drum turns and I can see that the heating element turns on as I can see glowing coils from inside the dryer however clothes are not drying in one cycle? Is it possible that the heating element is marginal and on its way out? I wish I took a photo however the glow is very subtle and not very bright? I'm assuming that the timer and centrifugal switch is OK since I see the heating element turning on? I have a heater element on the way as well as a hi-lo thermostat, but wanted to know if I should be checking anything else. Thanks In advance for your expert opinion.

Hello, I have an old Maytag dryer that wont heat. I am no expert and have been working through this with Youtube videos. Its very possible I am doing something wrong 😀 This is what I have checked so far: On back panel where power comes in: Leg 1 Neutral to hot = 115V Leg 2 Neutral to hot = 115V Both thermal fuses have continuity Both thermostats (Cycling and Hi-Limit) have continuity Heating element resistance = 10.6 ohms No short from heating element input to case No short from heating element output to case Temperature selector out voltage to chassis ground = 115V when running Heating element voltage to chassis ground = 115V on both input and out sides when running (getting desperate here) Could it be the switch in the motor that closes when it spins? I moved that switch by hand and got continuity across the terminals but I am not sure how to test while the dryer is running. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks George

Hoping someone on this forum might have some insight. Given the current state of the world, trying to DIY this repair rather than have someone in our tight house. Our Bosch Dryer model # WTMC332BUS/06 has been great for us. I think we have owned it 11-12 years and its still a work horse for our family of 5. That said, about 2 years ago my wife smelled a burning smell and understandably was freaked out. I did a complete cleaning of the lint filter and lint filter box snaking it. We ended up having a repairman out and I'm not sure what he did other than I think he pulled some lint out from under the drum. Four days ago we were getting the same burning smell. Given the current state of isolation I figured this was a good time to tear the whole dryer open and clean everything. In doing so, I did the following; - Removed lint filter and cleaned. - Fabricated a thin hose extension for my shop vac and vacuumed the entire lint box. - Removed the top cover and rear cover of the dryer exposing the back of the drum and underneath of the dryer. - Vaccuumed lots of lint from under the drum, around the belt pully assembly and generally the whole bottom side of the dryer. - I disconnected the heating element duct from the back side of the drum and used the same fabricated hose to vacuum up inside the rear of the drum. In doing so the drum did shift slightly back, but I was able to move it back forward and it appears to turn freely as it did. - On our model, the heating element duct soft of pivots or hinges down once disconnected allowing me to see the heating element. It also had several large balls of lint including one that was charred. Vaccummed and removed those as well. In doing all of this, I did not disconnect any electrical leads. This was simply a disassembly of the structure to clean and everything was put back together as it was. When I was done reassembling and had plugged back in, the dryer had power and when put to a setting and hitting the start button, it's not turning on. I am getting a first smaller "click" which I believe is the door safety switch and then a secondary "harder" or louder click. I now have the dryer dissassembled again. The secondary click appears to be coming from the back of the drum although I can't see anything electric there other than the plug. The clicking is not coming from the plug. Pictures below show the disassembled state. I would appreciate any insight this forum has as to things to look or check for. Much appreciated - stay safe everyone!

Hello all, The nuts and bolts: Looking for how to enter test mode on a Samsung DV219AEW/XAA. Can't find it on the web. There are no error codes showing at the moment, but although it lets you input a cycle (and lights up as if it is starting) there is no heat, the drum doesn't spin, and after counting down two minute into the cycle, the timer drops down to 1 minute. I need the entry method to start the diagnostic test, and the error code table, which I know is only in the service manual, but I'm not qualified to be an appliance tech so I can't sign up for a membership. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. The long version: Sometime lurker, this is my first post. Since I may be here more often, I'll go ahead and introduce myself. I'm the wife of a supposed-to-be-retired electrician who is also a do-anything kind of guy. He grew up in the trades and was on job sites since he was around 8 years old, so he's got a lot of experience and, as we privately like to call it, "little known facts of useless information" in his head. Though, of course, they aren't useless at all - he can figure out just about anything. (I'm not bragging - trust me he has his flaws, as do I, LOL- but he really is a very, very talented handy guy, as well as a kick butt electrician.) Although he is primarily an electrician, he is often asked to do other things, and appliance repair comes up relatively often. Usually it's after he's on site for something else, and the customer says, "Hey, I also have xxxx, do you know anything about working on that?" I am what we jokingly call tech support. I scour the web for diagnostic tests, service manuals, and any other info I can find. I've logged countless hours on the web on various electrical and appliance forums looking up problems, solutions, printing out schematics, etc. (You'd be surprised at the level of detail involved with old electrical panels, for example.) With appliances, from research I'm usually able to narrow the problems down, and predict parts needed, though not always, because sometimes it's wiring issues and of course he needs to do that on site. In any case, I'm his right hand on stuff. It's my job to get him the info he needs to start diagnosing, or go one better and point him in the most likely direction, saving him some time. In some cases we do tell the customer to call an actual appliance repair tech, and in rare cases, to not bother repairing, and to buy a replacement. I'm not in a position to do the coursework here, but I love the concept and execution of this site. If my husband were younger, I'm sure he would do the courses, since he already has the electrical knowledge as well as general "how things work" knowledge...but he's actually supposed to be retired, LOL.

NEED THE TECH SHEET FOR THIS MODEL THANK YOU

NEED TECH SHEET FOR THIS MODEL NUMBER THNK YOU

Hey, all. Thank you for the help with my (now replaced) washer with the cracked tub. Time for the dryer to act up. So my Kenmore 80 series dryer 110.70832990 runs just fine but has stopped heating. I can see the igniter glow in but the gas doesn’t catch. So far I have flipped the breaker in case it was the outlet, checked that no chuckleheads have shut off the gas, and used a multimeter to check the current at various places in the back suggested by YouTube videos. One of the leads (is this the right term?) won’t come off but angling the multimeter points to hit the metal suggests the current is fine, but I’m not certain if that would be wrong with one wire still attached. Frustrated, I cleared out the lint for the second time in a few months for kicks (not much there) and looked for more information. What do I do next? I found a video that shows the igniter glowing in the same way without lighting which suggested it might be the solenoids but I wasn’t convinced that the person knew what they were talking about, and since it will require removing the top I thought I’d ask here first since I’ve got a broken arm and messing with the drum seems like it will require a helper beyond my very amenable spouse. I soooo wanted it to be the thermal cutoff. All help appreciated.