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  1. My Kenmore Refrigerator Model 106.8576984 (GE? refrigerator 30 years old) has a damper that is stuck closed - refrigerator not cooling/evaporator fan replaced/no air from top vent. Freezer is fine and cools to 0 degrees. I believe it to be the reostat. What would be the OEMpart# or where can I find a replacement part? Thanks! Ron
  2. Tech sheet and a service manual for disassembly
  3. Need service manual for disassembly need tech sheet as well thx
  4. Need service manual for disassembly tech sheet as well
  5. I've got a Kenmore Washer model 110.29522801 will agitate and drain but won't spin. I thought it could be the motor coupler, but the black piece looks to be in perfect condition and the two plastic pieces are not broken or worn. (See images) I connected the motor back to power and ran the spin cycle. The motor moves the coupler without issue. What I think my issue is(I really have no clue. ha), the transmission won't turn by hand clockwise. It will turn counterclockwise, but not clockwise. Should it turn clockwise? If its not turning clockwise, does this mean my transmission is bad? Is a broken transmission worth fixing? https://ibb.co/8KzrbqH https://ibb.co/R93SmbK https://ibb.co/qnRyF0M
  6. The compressor on my fridge needs to be replaced. I will be attempting to do the repair but I want to know exactly what the buldge is on the high side and the suction side of compressor. I can only assume it's some sort or secondary filter drier or muffler. Does it need to be replaced along with the compressor or can it just stay there? I tried searching for the part but it isn't listed on any website that contains parts for this fridge.
  7. The problem is the washer spins and halts, spins and halts, endlessly on most dial settings, regardless whether the lid is open or the dial is pulled. The only way to stop it is to unplug the machine. (It will fill with water on the CLEAN setting.) Here's a video I took of the problem. What I've done so far, all with no effect: Replaced the timer. Replaced the motor and motor switch. Replaced the entire wire harness. Replaced the lid switch. Tested the pressure switch (all good). Tested the capacitor (all good). Double-checked that the power outlet works and no fuses are blown. I'm suspicious that it's the transmission. Reasons: I noticed there's oil leaking on the floor. It seems to be coming from the transmission. The original transmission died 6 months ago. I replaced it with a used one on eBay. Process of elimination -- I've replaced nearly everything else; what else could it be? Do you think the transmission is the culprit? Is there any other part I should check first? Thank you!
  8. Hi, folks, my drain sink drains rather slowly, but my washer drains rather quickly. It does stop after a certain point to allow the sink to catch up, but only after a few gallons have found their way to the floor (not all the time, just under very interesting conditions, like washing a comforter). Anyway, before I go crazy trying to make a hack using a float switch, is there a built-in way to reprogram the unit to drain less water before pausing? Arigato!
  10. I have a Kenmore 790.71513400 gas range that the oven will not light. When this started I assumed it was the igniter again, I had replaced it approximately three years ago. You could hear the relay snap after setting the oven temperature on the panel, but the igniter would not glow. I replaced the igniter, but it still does not glow/light. Again, you hear the relay snap, but that is it. I took apart the igniter wiring to check for bad connections or corrosion, and the smaller spade terminal on the gas safety valve didn't look too good. All of that is cleaned up now. I have not checked for voltage, would that be my net step?
  11. I recently replaced the rear drum seal of my Kenmore dryer, Model 110.66752500. Prior to repair the timer advanced and the dryer heated. Since the repair, the motor will run and the drum spins, but there is no heat and it will continuously run. Any help would be appreciated.
  12. 112 downloads

    PUB MFL62119949 For models 79661622310, 796.61622310, 79661623310, 796.61623310, 796.61522210, 796615222210, 796.61523210, 796231523210, 795.71523211, 795.71522211, 79571523211, 79571522211
  13. Full model number: 795.79304.901 My refrigerator's evaporator fan and interior lights are not working in normal operation. As far as I know, everything else works. The passageway between the freezer and refrigerator froze up over time, so when I noticed that the refrigerator was too warm, I removed all food and defrosted the whole thing. After plugging it back in, the interior lights worked again. But after I checked back after a few hours, the refrigerator was still warm. I researched this issue, which suggested that I check to see if the evaporator fan was running. It wasn't. Also, the interior lights stopped turning on again after the freezer cooled down. During my research, I found this Service Manual for a nearly identical model; Mine just doesn't have the door-mounted water dispenser. On page 28, it talks about Test Mode, which is activated using a button on the mainboard. I tried this out, and while test mode 1 was running, the switches for the lights and the lights started working again, and the evaporator fan spun up, just like they were supposed to. So at least I now know that my fan works, and so do the switches and the light bulbs, and that the wiring is intact. Again, as far as I know, everything else works normally. There was ice buildup on the coils, but not that much so maybe it could be explained by the lack of airflow? This assumption is based on what I've read about how a lack of airflow can cause ice buildup inside the freezer. I've heard that the issue might be the defrost thermister or the refrigerator thermister, but I don't know how to check them or replace them. If someone knows more about them, that's really what I need at the moment. How do I check thermisters to see if they work? How would I need to replace them? How would a faulty one explain my symptoms, where both the evaporator fan and the lights don't turn on? I do have a cheap multimeter (it can test for ohmage but not continuity) and a thermometer. Thanks for any and all help.
  14. Fridge: 1.5 year old Side-by-Side Kenmore 51789 (seems to be a Whirlpool model?) Service Sheet: W10670778 A Over the last few days, I’ve noticed my fridge and freezer were slowly getting less and less cold, with the fridge seemingly doing worst at keeping cold. Looking at the freezer, I discovered some frost towards the bottom, right around the vents. I decided to (manually) defrost the fridge by turning it off (from the front-panel, leaving it plugged in). As the fridge was defrosting, I looked for some information online, which all indicate that it’s probably due to the control broad, defrost thermostat, or heater. I opened up the back panel on the freezer to find that the bottom portion (directly behind the vents) was very frozen/frosted, but the top (where the defrost thermostat is) was essentially free of frost. I ran the diagnostic tests from the service sheet (see results below), with the bi-metal test returning “bimetal open”. Since the fridge was already at room temperature, I believe that test to be normal (is that correct? the bimetal is open when the freezer is at room temperature, right?). Since there was still a lot of frost, I tried to initiate “Forced Defrost” and couldn’t get it to work (does the open bimetal prevent the “Forced Defrost” mode?). After a day/night of defrosting manually, I turned the fridge back on and it seems to be working fine/better, although I’m already seeing a little bit of frost/white on the coils (they looked dry when I turned it back on, but maybe they were not). After being back on for about 3 days (and everything being seemingly fine), I ran the diagnostic tests again and got the exact same results (see below), with the bimetal test still showing open. Although I believe this indicates a bad Defrost Thermostat (is that correct?), I’m not sure that’s the case. I wanted to try to bypass the Defrost Thermostat but it’s plugged directly into the outlet, so that would require cutting the wires to do so. I also tried to make the Defrost Thermostat cold by putting frost/ice directly on/around it to make it colder but still got the open result in the test diagnostic. Am I correct that this indicates a bad Defrost Thermostat? Is there a difference between a "Defrost Thermostat" and "bimetal"? Is there a good/foolproof way of testing it? What are my next steps? I’m trying to narrow down the problem as much as possible before committing to cutting wires and/or buying new parts…. As an additional question, I was unsure how to get the “Forced Defrost” to work (step #38 in service sheet) because it says the “command shall be sent at the exit of Service Mode”. Does that mean that I have to select the Defrost Mode (Short or Long) and exit straightaway? or do I need to go back to the step menu before exiting? Diagnostic Tests Results (same results when freezer was at room temperature and when cold): 1) FC Thermistor: O1=Pass 2) RC Thermistor: O1=Pass 3) Evaporator fan motor and Air baffle motor: displays O2 (baffle is closed) and then switches to O1 (baffle is open) 4) Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor: O1=ON 6) Defrost heater/Bi-metal: O2 = Bimetal Open 7) Defrost Mode: I set it to O1=ADC ON as indicated in the service sheet. How would you go about setting it to O2 = Basic Mode (8 hour timer) since it says “The Defrost Mode must be set to ADC ON before exiting the Service Diagnostic Mode”? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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