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Hi Guys, I have a 10 year old LG WM3431HS. I got a dHE code. Researched a bit on the internet and found that cleaning the lint out of the duct usually fixes the problem. Sure enough the duct was caked full of lint. I cleaned it all out, put it all together and still get the dHE code. I followed the service manual diagnostics. Fuse is good, Thermistors are good, Thermostat is good. Heater is good. I'm not getting 120VAC at the heater, which the service manual says is the main board. I bought a new main board, replaced it and still no change... I've also manually tested the heater by hooking it up to 120V and it works great. Is there some element I am missing here, or some component that is failed that is causing the main board not to send power to the heater? I feel like a fuse is blown or something is causing this error. I've been working on this for a couple of weeks and I'm really close to just calling a service guy. Part of me wonders if the service guy will have any more luck... Thanks for any help!! -Charles M

I have a LG top load washer, model WT1101CW, bought new in 2013. Recently I have started getting an OE drain error which stops the machine during the rinse or spin cycles. The machine **does** drain and will restart after the error if I pause it, open the lid, and resume the cycle. But it will just keep throwing OE errors until I give up and take the somewhat-too-damp clothes outside to dry in the Florida sun. I've checked the drain hoses, they are not blocked, but there was some water in the bottom of the drain hoses. I also removed the black hose connecting the pump to the exterior drain hose and felt around inside the pump. I couldn't feel any lint buildup or foreign object blocking the pump. I noted that the impeller felt stiff, and didn't want to spin freely in either direction. I could get it to spin by pushing it, but it took some force. Does it sound like the drain pump needs to be replaced? Or is this more likely to be a control board issue? Thanks!

LG DLEX7700VE LG DLGX7701VE Dryer Service Manual View File PUB MFL62119986 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 01/30/2019 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

LG LRE30453ST Range Service Manual View File PUB MFL37118303 Submitter Vance R Submitted 02/24/2022 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hello - my LG refrigerator linear compressor does not turn on (LG fma102nbma). When I checked the resistance across the three compressor pins I had zero, zero, and 16.6 ohms. Does 16.6 ohms indicate a malfunction? I was expecting a value like 7.5 ohms from information from the web.

Hello, I have a LG washing machine WT4801CW. The air hose between the tub and the pressure switch disconnects from the tub, resulting in the machine stopping, showing IE, and flooding the laundry room. I have reconnected it to the tub nipple using the small metal clamp, but every few weeks it disconnects again. Is there a way to get this air hose to stay connected ? Thank you !

I am having troubles with my LG LDS5540ST dishwasher. The internal heating element, 5301DD1001G, burned out (no continuity but also no visible signs of damage). I've replaced it twice. Each time within the first wash cycle it burns out (no continuity). I've tested each unit prior to installation (and also before operation once installed) and both were good but almost immediately both burned out. Again, there was no visible sign of damage to the heating elements-- just no continuity when I checked with a meter. The water is on and (at least) initially the water is being heated. Then the element burns out. The dishwasher display the HE error code. Additional information that may be helpful: About 9 months ago the entire dishwasher stopped working with a burning smell. Upon investigation I found burned/melted connectors on the main assembly board. It looked to me like a connector wire had become loose and caused arcing. While charred and melted at specific connectors, the rest of the board itself appeared to be okay to my untrained eye. I was not able to determine where/how to purchase replacement connectors for the wiring harness (just the complete $100 wire harness), so just replaced the melted connectors with new female spade connectors instead. That solved the problem. The dishwasher powered up and worked well for at about 8 months. Then the heating element went out (and dishwasher displayed the HE code). Any thoughts on where to go from here? My thoughts: 1. Perhaps the main assembly board (EBR73739203) has gone bad (due to the previous damage over time?) and is burning out the heating element. 2. The wire harness (EAD61906701) is bad (maybe my spliced in connectors are causing some resistance but I'm not sure how that would cause the heating element to burn out -- and burn out within a few minutes). I don't see anything broken (again to my untrained eye) If the main assembly board and wire harness were not so expensive I'd just replace them and one more heating element, but that puts the cost around $230-$290 (plus what I've already spent) and I'm not sure replacing both of those will solve the problem anyway. Plus replacing the entire wiring harness looks like quite a time-consuming pain (I wish there were a source for just the connectors on the wire harness) Cost is unfortunately a significant factor for me. For reference I have included a couple pictures of the main assembly board in case it (or my previous repair work) may be an issue. The first picture is how it looked prior to my repair 9 months ago and the other is a recent picture of what it looks like now (including the repair I made 9 months ago). Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Does anyone have any recommendations on what should I do from here or what would be causing heating elements to keep burning out? Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

Need tech sheet thanks

LG WM3987HW QC mode change Service Bulletin View File QC mode change PUB M20090214 for WWM20090214, WM0642HW, WM2044CW, WM0001HTMA, WM3001HWA, WM3001HRA, WM3001HPA, WM2801HWA, WM2801HRA, WM2801HLA, WM2601HW, WM2601HR, WM2688HWM, WM2688HNM, WM2688HWM, WM2688HNM, WM2688HCM, WM2487HWM, WM2487HRM, WM2688HWMA, WM2688HNMA, WM2688HRMA, WM2487HWMA, WM2487HRMA, WM2487HSMA, WM3988HWMA, WM3987HW, WM2496HWM, WM2496HSM, WM2455HW, WM2455HG, WM2455HS, WM2355CW, WM2355CG, WM2455CS, WM2301HW, WM2301HR, WM2301HS, WM2233HW, WM2233HS, WM2233HU, WM2233HD, WM2101HW, WM2101HS, WM2133CW, WM2233CS, WM2233CU, WM2016CW Submitter Vance R Submitted 03/08/2021 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

MAnual and tech sheet needed thx

This LG refrigerator was DOA- warm inside, no compressor operation, no lights, no nuttin'. Found a blown fuse on the main control board. What took out the fuse: bad board or just a spike on the power line? I show how to check for that. The fuses on these LG boards are soldered in and not easily replaceable. But a new fuse can be installed and I show how to do that without even having to remove the board, while it's still installed in the refrigerator. Learn appliance repair at http://mastersamuraitech.com