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Two part question: 1. This is machine is sold in Costa Rica and I believe it is made in MX. I read here that the model # can be converted to an American #. Can someone please tell me how to do that? I have been searching for parts for this model and it is as if it doesn't exist. Even LG has ignored my requests. 2. The first problem with the machine began with the knob. I was unable to use it to switch wash modes. It worked for about a year on the standard available cycle. Now the machine just shows 2 dashes on the digital display. Upon opening I see that there seems to be burn marks on the control board behind the knob. I want to begin by replacing that circuit board. Can anyone tell me what is the exact name for that part and which # on the board I need to reference to find a compatible replacement part? It seems as though my only option is an aftermarket part, since LG is unresponsive. Any advice greatly appreciated. The cover on the back reads: INSULATOR PCB MEV47160301 >ABS< SW 18.11 2-2 I also have clearer photos of the visible numbers and print on the board. Thanks!

Hello - my LG refrigerator linear compressor does not turn on (LG fma102nbma). When I checked the resistance across the three compressor pins I had zero, zero, and 16.6 ohms. Does 16.6 ohms indicate a malfunction? I was expecting a value like 7.5 ohms from information from the web.

New to the forum, tech with 4yrs experience just getting back into the field after 11 years in the military, so playing catch-up on new stuff. On LG refrigerators with the linear compressors with no cooling, I've been consistently reading anywhere between 600-1500 VAC on the CON201 terminals to the compressor, whether the connecter is hooked up or not. Several of my fellow techs have seen this as well. LG says the max VAC output to the comp should be ~180VAC. I've never had any issues with my Fieldpiece meter. Am I doing something wrong or is my meter insufficient for LGs?

Hi Guys, I have a 10 year old LG WM3431HS. I got a dHE code. Researched a bit on the internet and found that cleaning the lint out of the duct usually fixes the problem. Sure enough the duct was caked full of lint. I cleaned it all out, put it all together and still get the dHE code. I followed the service manual diagnostics. Fuse is good, Thermistors are good, Thermostat is good. Heater is good. I'm not getting 120VAC at the heater, which the service manual says is the main board. I bought a new main board, replaced it and still no change... I've also manually tested the heater by hooking it up to 120V and it works great. Is there some element I am missing here, or some component that is failed that is causing the main board not to send power to the heater? I feel like a fuse is blown or something is causing this error. I've been working on this for a couple of weeks and I'm really close to just calling a service guy. Part of me wonders if the service guy will have any more luck... Thanks for any help!! -Charles M

Manufacturer: LG Type of Appliance: Air Conditioner Model Number: LW2422IVSM Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Looking for the tech sheet for this LG AC MOD#: lw2422ivsm SER#: 302HAKA83133, thanks

Symptoms: The microwave runs just fine, but nothing warms up no matter how long you put it in for. Troubleshooting: The transformer seems to be fine. The capacitor looks fine (to be fair, I didn't meter it, cause it is hard to reach) The magnetron has been replaced twice... It always seems to fix the problem, but after two or three weeks it stops working again. I don't see any charring on or around the magnetron like it is overheating. The large magnets don't appear to be cracked. In fact, once I remove the apparently bad magnetron, I meter it out, and it looks fine... but I put a new one in and it works again for a short time. It doesn't seem like a power issue, transformer, capacitor, diode... It seems like it's the magnetron, but I don't want to keep replacing it every month. Any ideas?

I have an LG WT7300CW 01 washing machine. At one point it began to turn on only when it wanted, and recently outright stopped turning on. I took it apart to take a look and deduced that when the front touch panel is attached, the thing would lock up and no longer work. I figured the issue was the panel went bad so I ordered a used replacement from eBay. Hooking that one up did not solve the problem, and I’m no longer sure what the issue is. I would think the board is the issue, but when I interface with the board without the touch panel, everything works fine. https://imgur.com/a/St0DuBY I took a video showing the issue. In the video, the touch panel is installed and the dial will not work. I quickly uninstall the panel and try to rotate the dial again, but now it works. This suggests that attaching the touch panel breaks the circuit. I could see that being the issue with the old one, but then why is this also happening with the replacement. Maybe the seller sold me a bad one I suppose, but I wouldn’t know how to test that. Right now we’re using it without the touch panel but ideally would want it fully assembled again.

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LG DLE5955W DLG5966W DLE5955G DLG5966G Dryer Service Manual View File PUB 3828EL3005L Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 12/08/2017 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

I have a LG top load washer, model WT1101CW, bought new in 2013. Recently I have started getting an OE drain error which stops the machine during the rinse or spin cycles. The machine **does** drain and will restart after the error if I pause it, open the lid, and resume the cycle. But it will just keep throwing OE errors until I give up and take the somewhat-too-damp clothes outside to dry in the Florida sun. I've checked the drain hoses, they are not blocked, but there was some water in the bottom of the drain hoses. I also removed the black hose connecting the pump to the exterior drain hose and felt around inside the pump. I couldn't feel any lint buildup or foreign object blocking the pump. I noted that the impeller felt stiff, and didn't want to spin freely in either direction. I could get it to spin by pushing it, but it took some force. Does it sound like the drain pump needs to be replaced? Or is this more likely to be a control board issue? Thanks!