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Found 6 results

  1. Hi - I haven't been here in a while. My Kenmore washer suddenly stopped draining. I am a Grasshopper wannabe, so please bear with me if I use the wrong terminology. But I am determined. I have checked the hose from washer liner to pump and from pump to drain line, and found no obstructions. I could actually touch the bottom of the tub liner, and felt no obstacles anywhere around it. I have checked the drain line from where it connects to the pump to the water return, and found no obstructions. I removed the pump itself, and it looks like it would be functional. The cover (might be wrong term) but what conceals the impellers, is still on, but upon inspection, I cannot see any damage to the impellers and they seem to rotate normally. This is a direct drive pump, and the pump motor runs and sounds perfectly normal. I have removed the cover to the control panel (again, this may be wrong terminology) and have tested the lid switch for continuity. There is continuity with lid closed, so I think that means my lid switch is ok. Q1: What else is there to test and how? Q2: On the pump - isn't it just a "passive" device that moves water b/c of the motor spinning the impellers? If so, and if the impellers are not broken, and the case does not appear to be cracked, is there anything else that can be wrong with the pump? (I only ask b/c a lot of the forums suggest bad pump, but it seems pretty easy to determine whether that is broken or not). Q3: I am wondering if there could be something wrong with the timer (might be wrong name) but the thing that would tell it to enter a drain cycle. thank you in advance for the insight and help.
  2. My LG WM2032HW front loading washer was throwing an OE error code and failing to spin. I found quite helpful instructions for the WM2487HWMA. See However, accessing the drain pump for the LG WM2032HW required a slightly different disassembly process. There are no screws on the back to release the top. The top doesn't slide--it lifts up by wedging up the front from two spring clips on either side. Make sure you secure the top once lifted or it will surely hit you on the head later during the repair. I ordered a drain pump from Sears. I also ordered the door boot/gasket (see below). Once the top is up and the front panel is off (see link on how to remove the gasket and door latch from the front panel) you can access the pump assembly. The drain pump is secured by three screws. These screws cannot be accessed easily from the side. The side panel is welded to the frame. The screws for the drain pump are readily accessible by removing the three screws around the filter cleanout. One of the three will already have been removed by having removed the drain cover. The whole pump assembly then lifts up and can turn enough to access the three screws holding the drain pump to the pump assembly. You will need to remove the red and black electrical connectors from the drain pump. You may find it helpful to remove the rubber intake drain hose from the back of the pump assembly and/or the drain hose from the top of the assembly. Replacing the drain pump did the trick. I had no sand or obstruction in the pump or the pump assembly. It just gave out. My LG is OE free and leak free. Since you must for this repair remove the front door, thus having removed the door spring wire from the boot/gasket, you might check for holes in the boot/gasket. Mine had several holes in it. The washer would at times leak during small loads. You will need to remove the inner spring/wire. The inner spring wire is easier to reinstall on the new boot. You will find it much easier if you also remove the weights, top and bottom from the drum. The outer spring wire connected to the door takes some effort. Position it in the groove as much as you can leaving one side of the spring in its final position. With vice grips pull hard to the right while a third hand (helper) positions the wire in the rest of the groove. Be patient. This takes some effort and trial and error. hanks all for the related posts.
  3. Bosch SHE68T52UC Dishwasher Drain Pump View File From PUB 58300000170749 Submitter Hiroshi Submitted 10/19/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  
  4. Version 1.0.0


    From PUB 58300000170749
  5. I have been trying to diagnose a problem with my Whirlpool dishwasher that won't drain at all. I have checked for any blockages and found none. I overrode the door switch and can see that the drain impeller is working (at least it is bubbling up where the water is in the bottom and I can hear it working). I have removed the little rubber check valve and found that the rubber disk has disintegrated. I wouldn't think that would cause it to not drain properly. I'm not sure I understand the function of the check valve. Would the removal of it prohibit the water from draining? I wouldn't think so... HELP!!! :-)
  6. I just got done fixing my Amana NFW7200TW Front Load Washer, and seen as how I used this forum quite a bit while doing so, I figured I'd post my story, maybe help someone else out going through the same issues. My washer was in the middle of a cycle when it stopped, beeped a few times, then flashed the door lock error code (d5). The door was stuck locked and wouldn't respond to any buttons, so after some searching, I located the manual door release beneath the door lock mechanism inside the washer. I was able to get the clothes out, but there was a puddle of water in the washer and it still wouldn't respond to any buttons, so I ordered a new lock ($30 on eBay). I installed the door lock mechanism when it arrived, and it locked and unlocked perfectly. However, when I attempted to start a cycle, the door would lock after about two minutes, then nothing else would happen. All the lights were on and no error codes flashed, it just wouldn't begin the cycle. I did some research and found out how to put it in Diagnostic Mode, at which point I found the error codes 01 and 22, both of which point to a drain pump malfunction. After removing the back plate and locating the drain pump, I removed both hoses and checked for any obstructions. There were none and the blades spun freely, so I moved on to testing voltage. Using my volt meter, I tested the incoming power which read 120V. I then tested the pumps continuity and found there was none. After pulling the pump out and taking it apart, I located the problem; a wire had burnt in half just before the fuse near the motor windings. Instead of buying a new pump ($50), I soldered the wire back together. Then I put everything back together, ran it through a quick wash cycle, and everything worked perfectly. So that's my story, if you guys have any questions or problems locating anything I've talked about, feel free to ask. Good luck!

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