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GE Top Load Washer Excessive Vibration Service Bulletin View File PUB HL06-17 Models: GTW220ACK0WW GTW220ACK1WW GTW220ACK2WW GTW330ASK0WW GTW330ASK1WW GTW460ASJ0WW GTW460ASJ1WW GTW460ASJ2WW GTW460ASJ3WW GTW460ASJ4WW GTW460ASJ5WW GTW460ASJ6WW GTW485ASJ0WS GTW485ASJ0WW GTW485ASJ1WS GTW485ASJ2WS GTW485ASJ3WS GTW490ACJ0WS GTW490ACJ0WW GTW490ACJ1WS GTW490ACJ1WW GTW490ACJ2WS GTW490ACJ2WW GTW490ACJ3WS GTW490ACJ3WW GTW680BSJ0WS GTW680BSJ1WS GTW680BSJ2WS GTW680BSJ3WS GTW680BSJ4WS HTW200ASK0WW HTW200ASK1WW HTW240ASK0WS HTW240ASK1WS GTW220ACK3WW GTW330ASK2WW GTW460ASJ7WW GTW485ASJ4WS GTW490ACJ4WS GTW490ACJ5WW GTW680BSJ5WS GTW685BPL0DG GTW685BSL0WS GTW750CPL0DG GTW750CSL0WS HTW200ASK2WW HTW240ASK2WS Submitter Lighthouse Submitted 03/27/2018 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hey all, HVAC tech here, usually I can troubleshoot stuff like this but I'm super stumped at the moment. I have a Maytag washer (Model MHW5630HW2) that will stall mid-cycle sometimes. The only three modes we use on a regular basis are the "Quick Wash" (most commonly used), "Normal Wash", and "Clean Washer". When we run Quick Wash, most of the time it will run just fine, sometimes it'll freeze/stall part-way through the cycle and the only way to fix is flip the breaker off-on then it'll do a quick drain cycle & then unlock the door. If we run the "Clean Washer" cycle, the timer stalls around 1:20 and then doesn't move at all. It does this every time we try this cycle. I've never noticed the Normal Wash cycle do this, however I don't use it often so not sure if it stalls on that as well. There are no error codes or other indication of issues with the washer beside this. However, if we've noticed it's stalled, and then we press any button on the HMI, it'll show "PF". I've tried the following repairs to no avail: - Changing HMI and ACU (original HMI had a large scratch through the buttons) - Changing Water Fill Sensor - Verified all wiring is secure and no broken/stripped wire insulation - Cleaned water valve inlet filters One thing to note is that the new ACUs LED blinks really fast when power is applied, then slows to a slow flash. The tech manual I found says that if this happens, the ACU is bad - but I find that hard to believe as it's brand new :( Short of buying a new washer, what else could be the issue? What am I missing? Any help would be very much appreciated :)

I have a Maytag Atlantis MAV7600AWW. The other day it was running and it started making loud noises (cant remember what it sounded like) then it stopped all together and smelled like burning rubber. I assumed it was the belt so i replaced that. Turned it on again and the motor just hummed and started smoking. I did some research and from mostly what i read made me believe it was the motor. I got a motor and replaced it, and it still is having the same issue. The water fills fine, then when it gets to spin, the timer buzzes and the motor hums and smokes. It seems like something is restricting the motor. I was able to turn the drum from the pulley side and the inside of the drum, the drain pump is a little hard to turn by hand but it does turn. I am lost now on what could be wrong. The two things i can think of would be a capacitor(not sure if it has one) or the pump is seized. Again the drum and motor spin by hand with ease. Anyone know what else i could do, i dont want to spend anymore money on it unnecessarily. Cheers Adam

Any help would be appreciated don’t know where to begin looking for parts breakdown, wondering if drum is on rollers? Maybe bearing in roller is bad? IMG_5229.mov IMG_5227.mov

My washing machine was fine two weeks ago. Then a big thunderstorm hit, and it immediately stopped draining. The wash and agitate and fill and rinse cycles still worked just fine, and there were no strange mechanical noises...it just quietly stops when the drain cycle activates... so I figured it was probably an electrical problem. - Changing the temperature, spin speed, load size switches had no effect. - Trying other cycles (such as "permanent press") had no effect. - Opening/closing the lid had no effect. (Neither did holding the lid switch lever down with a screwdriver while the lid was open.) I pulled out the timer and tested it for continuity with a multimeter based off the wiring diagram. Sure enough, I found an error. First, I made sure to remove the timer right when it was stopped on the faulty drain cycle. Then, I tested every connection on the timer terminals. Every connection was correct, except one: According to the wiring diagram, the tan-blue circuit was supposed to be ON during the "drain hi" cycle, but the multimeter found that it was OFF. So, naively, I replaced the timer. Same issue with the new timer: no draining, and no continuity on the tan-blue circuit. Now I'm wondering: What switch do I test next? I'm not sure how to read the wiring diagram. (Or maybe a wire is bad?) Thanks!

Frigidaire ATF6000FS1 Washer Service Manual View File PUB 134879700A Submitter Bluebayou Submitted 05/19/2020 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Hi I have a an old maytag Lat8705aae it has a drum knocking noise in the spin there is a small leak front the seal but I’m just trying to determine if changing the bearing and stem and seal kit will solve it or if I have a transmission issue. there is a bit of play in the agitator shaft with the agitator removed thanks for any advice