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I have a Bosch side-by-side Fridge/Freezer B22CS30SNS/01 that is having ice build up on the evaporator coil in the refrigerator side. I have ran the self test and received no errors. I tested the defrost heater for continuity and it was good. I tested the defrost fuse for continuity and that was good as well. I tested the defrost sensor for continuity and it was good. Can someone tell be what the next step in diagnosing this is? Is there a table with resistance values for a given temp for the defrost sensor? Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

I have a SHE3AR75UC/14 and it is running for about a minute and then it shuts off. I replaced the drain motor. I recorded this video. I checked the drain lines and there was not anything. Any ideas?

TLDR version: Please Help a DIY-er Repairing a Bosch Washer WFL2090UC? 1) does anyone have a .pdf of the service manual? 2) To replace the brushes, is the best access really via the underside of the machine? 3) Why is there a fine black powder coating everything? Is that bad? What is it? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide! - D Below is my first draft of this post. As you can see I have a tendency towards verbosity. I am including it in its entirety anyway in case it contains useful details that help in evaluating or diagnosing the above issues: Hello, I'm a DIY-er trying to repair a Bosch Front Loading Clothes Washer model WFL2090UC/. (I'm not sure if it is /01, /04, or some other version. Believe purchased circa 2008?) Initial issue is the drum will no longer spin. It makes noises like it's trying, and fills with water, and it doesn't seem to be a door latch issue, so I suspect it's either the belt or the brushes. 1) If anyone could provide digital copies of the service manual, tech specs, fault codes, and schematics, that would be amazing. Bosch Customer Service won't share these with me. 2) I already ordered replacement brushes but I can't figure out how best to access the motor. This model seems to have a terrible design with kind of a removable porthole on the back so I can see the back of the tub, belt, and drive shaft(?), but which isn't really big enough to provide access? I can't see what I'm doing when trying to access the motor from the front or reach the motor mount bolts, so it seems like the best option is to remove the bottom-side panel. But, I'm doing this solo and not confident I can tip it over and back upright safely by myself, especially since it's on a pedestal in a small utility room w/o much room to work. I'm guessing that the service manual will tell me that access through the underside panel is what's recommended though. 3) Part of the reason I suspect the brushes is because much of the interior of the machine's cabinet is coated with a fine, black, odorless, soot-like or carbon-like powder. (I didn't try a taste test. Blech.) The greatest concentration of powder seems to be in the bottom rear of the machine. I initially thought this might be mold, but that doesn't make much sense b/c mold doesn't usually grow on metal and plastic w/o access to anything organic, right? Then I thought it might be degraded bits of the belt, but from what my amateur eyes can tell, visually the belt is in good condition. There is resistance when turning it manually and it moves the drum okay. With the quantity of powder dispersed, if it were formerly part of the belt I would expect the belt to be quite obviously chewed up and worn. Plus, the particle size is a lot smaller than I would expect disintegrating rubber to be. I don't have any experience with electrical motors but it occurred to me when the replacement brushes arrived that it may be the old brushes making the mess? The powder itself is flat or matte black though, not the same grey with a slightly reflective sheen like the new brushes have. Can anyone identify the black powder material and suggest what it may portend for the future life of the machine? If the original brushes did get ground up to create this powder, is that likely to happen to the replacement brushes as well? If I can get another 15 years of service from this machine after replacing the brushes I'll be thriled, but does anyone have any suggestions as to the possible cause of the powder and how I might prevent it from happening in future? Thanks for reading this far. I appreciate any and all contributions to resolving my questions. Cheers! Final note: unfortunately I won't have access to the washer again until this weekend, but if photos would be illustrative please let me know what pictures I should take.

Hi all, I am not sure what to do about this, but am hoping someone here can offer some direction. We have recently (and finally) gotten a dishwasher, which was gifted to us by a friend (it had been sitting in their garage unused.) It is a Bosch "Serie 4" 46db model number SMS46GW01A/01. There isn't space in any of our small kitchen to put it, so we put it next to the kitchen bench - we had a plumber come and drill some holes, and attach some "extension" hoses to the water intake and outtake to the supplied ones. The dishwasher worked great for two weeks, and now has developed an issue. It's a BOSCH "Serie 4" 46db, with the model number SMS46GW01A/01. While working initially, it now seems to run for a short while (10 minutes?) on any of the washing programs, and then stop with the "Check Water" error lit. We've cleaned all the filters, but it looks like it is obtaining water (at least for a while) as the bottom of the dishwasher is full of water when the program stops. Draining also seems to work, as if I start another program, it will drain it all out. Our guess - Is this likely low water pressure due to the length of the hose, that may have been borderline when it worked and now has dipped for some reason? Perhaps it only needs low pressure in the first phase, but demands more in the later one? Or perhaps some sort of blockage in the water intake or the wastewater pump?. Should we: 1) call a plumber 2) call a bosch technician 3) is there something we can do ourselves? Thanks in advance. Hilary and Richard.

Hello board members I require your experience and advice regarding a used Bosch Compact Dishwasher model SKS51E18EU bought recently. The previous owner of 5 years mentioned an issue that it doesn’t drain at the end of the program, so restarting a new program clears this issue. After good results for 7-8 cycles its behavior changed.. The ordinary program sequence begins: Drainage > Emptying all water in the system > and then the inlet pump starts taking in water, after ~15 seconds of water going in, the "check water" indicator turns on, and the program ends with a long drainage. total of 3 minutes since program execution I checked: Different configurations of the in/out tubes in different angles while running The inlet filter - was clean Drainage filter + unscrewed some piece to reach the cog-wheel of the pump making sure there are no obstructions After looking online I found that for similar cases some concluded this might be the inlet valve, before ordering a replacement I need certainty that this is the solution, that’s why I require your help. Thanks in advance!

Hi Friends: I have a Bosch B22CT080SNS/01 French Door Refrigerator. Ice maker is located in the bottom freezer. I cannot find for the life of me the ice maker assembly replacement. It is on back order.and has been for at least 2 months now. Bosch has not ETA. No local parts house, no online vendor, or my tech can find one. Only some in Canada but they won't ship to the US. I was told to find part number 00798555. This Bosch refrigerator was clearly made by Whirlpool. My brother owns a JennAir JFC2290REM00 and I can't find a difference in the models except of course the label. I'm willing to put in a generic ice maker if someone can suggest something that is compatible. This unit produces the crescent cubes. Any help or suggestions would be appreciate. Thank you!

Hello. This is my first post here. Hope to get advice from someone who knows about Bosch hood fan installation. We got this fan few years ago for the project and it was installed but never used. The owner changed mind and it was removed and put in a box, sitting in a storage. We decided to used it for our house but realized there are several things missing. According to the installation manual (page 8) , below are the items included. I've highlighted things we are missing in Red. I called Bosch parts department and was informed I can purchase installation kit which include everything I need, except Back-pressure Flap. Part number: 00758988 Extractor hood with fan, back-pressure flap Lamp, already installed Metal grease filter Flue duct Drill template 1x angle bracket for the flue duct Instruction manual and installation instructions 6x screws, 5x45 mm 8x screws, 4x8 mm 2x washers 2x hollow wall plugs, 8x40 mm 4x hollow wall plugs, 10x50 mm T Torx adapter, 10 & 20 I need someone's professional advice on 2 areas. 1. If I order installation kit from Bosch, it takes 3-4 weeks to receive the order. I want to get this installed sooner and wondering if I can get all the materials (except drill template and manual) from local hardware store? 2. Do I need back-pressure flap? Again, can I buy this item from hardware store or is this something that needs to be specific to this model? Thanks in advane.

Hi, My dishwasher will fill water (and will intermittently drain some water too), but the circulation pump/sprayer does not start. In between I can hear a faint electronic hum, as well as the odd relay clicking. After an extended period of time it will give the 5 beeps (as if the wash cycle was completed). However when it does the 5 beeps, the water isn't emptied and is full up to the base of the door in the tub. I also noticed that the heater was on (if that's of any relevance). I've tried to turn off, wait 10 minutes and turn back on the dishwasher from the main breaker, but there was no difference. Also, I read about a "reset" sequence (i.e. hold down the power scrub + rinse & hold buttons for 10+ seconds). When I tried this, the "clean" light turned on, but nothing happens when I close the door. I believe it's supposed to force the tub to drain. Note the drain pump seems to be functioning, as I hear it sometimes turn on and drain excess water. Also, I inspected the check-valve, and it seemed to be working okay. My guess is that either the control board is bad, or the circulation pump is faulty? Please advise.

Hoping someone on this forum might have some insight. Given the current state of the world, trying to DIY this repair rather than have someone in our tight house. Our Bosch Dryer model # WTMC332BUS/06 has been great for us. I think we have owned it 11-12 years and its still a work horse for our family of 5. That said, about 2 years ago my wife smelled a burning smell and understandably was freaked out. I did a complete cleaning of the lint filter and lint filter box snaking it. We ended up having a repairman out and I'm not sure what he did other than I think he pulled some lint out from under the drum. Four days ago we were getting the same burning smell. Given the current state of isolation I figured this was a good time to tear the whole dryer open and clean everything. In doing so, I did the following; - Removed lint filter and cleaned. - Fabricated a thin hose extension for my shop vac and vacuumed the entire lint box. - Removed the top cover and rear cover of the dryer exposing the back of the drum and underneath of the dryer. - Vaccuumed lots of lint from under the drum, around the belt pully assembly and generally the whole bottom side of the dryer. - I disconnected the heating element duct from the back side of the drum and used the same fabricated hose to vacuum up inside the rear of the drum. In doing so the drum did shift slightly back, but I was able to move it back forward and it appears to turn freely as it did. - On our model, the heating element duct soft of pivots or hinges down once disconnected allowing me to see the heating element. It also had several large balls of lint including one that was charred. Vaccummed and removed those as well. In doing all of this, I did not disconnect any electrical leads. This was simply a disassembly of the structure to clean and everything was put back together as it was. When I was done reassembling and had plugged back in, the dryer had power and when put to a setting and hitting the start button, it's not turning on. I am getting a first smaller "click" which I believe is the door safety switch and then a secondary "harder" or louder click. I now have the dryer dissassembled again. The secondary click appears to be coming from the back of the drum although I can't see anything electric there other than the plug. The clicking is not coming from the plug. Pictures below show the disassembled state. I would appreciate any insight this forum has as to things to look or check for. Much appreciated - stay safe everyone!

No schematics on this one! I know that'll be a relief for some of you. Honestly, it was a nice break for me, too. I love these easy jobs where you can troubleshoot using only your eyeballs and fix it with something as simple as a paper clip. In this short little video, I show you how to troubleshoot a problem with a surface burner on Bosch gas range. The burner was not lighting correctly and would sometimes flare up. All gas range surface burners operate using the same principles so don't let the fact that this is a Bosch fool you. Gas fuel, just like electricity, works the same way in the US as it does in Germany, Korea, or anywhere else in the world. So the same principles and repair shown here apply to all gas surface burners regardless of brand. Learn all about gas and electric technology used in cooking appliances and confidently burn through any oven and range problem. Enroll in the Master Samurai Tech Oven and Range Repair Training Course today.

The BOSCH SHU 4306 CU dishwasher (DW) is 20+ years young. It did develop very unpleasant behaviour. Any of the available wash cycle starts in correct way. These wash cycles are: POWER SCRUB PLUS, SCRUB WASH, REGULAR WASH, RINSE & HOLD. Here are step by step description of events. press ON switch the DW starts with the short drain sequence the DW starts with wash mode which was used in previous washing cycle water valve is enabled, water flows into the DW after while the big high pressure pump is activated and dishes are getting washed water continues to flow into the DW the safety floater starts to climb when it reaches the top point, the drain pump kicks in the water valve is disabled, water stops flowing into the DW in this moment, the water level is a little bit lower (see (9)) the safety floater goes down, the drain pump stops running the water valve gets enabled, the water is flowing again into the DW steps (7), (8), (9), (10), (11), (12) get repeated 15-25 times. Approximately once per second then, there is no cycling for approximately 15-20 seconds after these 15-20 seconds, the cycles 7-12 are again executed This goes for ever. If I interrupt the process, by simultaneously pressing POWER SCRUB PLUS and REGULAR WASH buttons, the DW goes into the DRAIN mode. All the water is pumped out from the DW and the CLEAN LED is activated. I did expect that at the end of the DRAIN process, the water valve will be disabled. But it isn't. The water continues to flow into the DW. Please, help out to debug and find the root cause for this unpleasant behaviour. Thanks

Hey there! New to the forums & looking for some insight about an issue I have ran into! I have a Bosch Stainless Steel Dishwasher that keeps stopping about 3 mins into the cycle. What it is doing, from what I can tell, is after it fills up it will run for a few seconds then it will "overflow" and the overflow tube will send water down to the "flood switch" at the bottom and cause it to stop. I've checked the sump for debris and didn't find anything. I have tilted it back at a 45 degree angle but that only cleared the water. So I'm wondering what else to look at. I will include the model number below. Model Number: SHP65T56UC/01

Bosch wall oven, microwave combo, HBL5750UC/08 Problem: In any cook mode but off, broiler element comes on and stays on. This used to happen intermittently, now all the time. Eventually the over-temp sensor will trigger and turn it off. Turning oven to "off" will turn off broiler element. Built-in diagnostics (from downloaded service manual) don't show any relevant faults. Temp readings from sensors (again, using built-in diagnostics) seem accurate. Using diagnostics to turn on broil element turns it on, but again, will never turn off. All of this leads me to believe it is a stuck relay? Question: I've seen references to a "control/relay board" and a "relay board". I suspect one of these components. Control/Relay board comes up as Bosch part #12022212. This board looks like it has many small relays on it. Relay board comes up as Bosch part #00663802. This looks more like a power supply board than a relay board. Should I replace the relay board?

Hi folks. I have a nice clean secondhand Bosch WFL1662 front-loading washing machine. During spin, and occasionally during wash rotation, there is a knocking noise inside. I have removed the top of the machine and rocked the drum front-to-back, first on the right and then on the left side. There is knock/clack always on the right side, rarely on the left. It does not vary depending on rotation of the inner drum. Also, when rotating the drum slowly, there is a squeak. Otherwise, it's all working fine. I have uploaded three videos describing this to the WeTransfer sharing site, links below. I would appreciate suggestions on probable causes and recommended repairs. It will most likley be done by myself, as my budget is currently being spent on new, non-leaking gas pipes :D Thanks, Stuart Test Rock Drum: https://we.tl/t-0n1MCLakDo Spin Rattle: https://we.tl/t-ImYcSK5K1a Squeak: https://we.tl/t-iP4h7eotwo

Hi Folks, I could really do with a bit of help in diagnosing a Bosch microwave issue The model is: HBC86P753B/01 Combi Oven and Microwave. https://i.pinimg.com/originals/5d/7b/5d/5d7b5dd4a9d9cec46429852d96d23147.jpg The problem only affects the microwave section: The symptoms are as follows: I power on and select microwave at any power level setting, adjust timer to 1 minute and press start, The light comes on fan runs for about 3 seconds and then display resets back to clock. I am electronically qualified and aware of the high voltage risks, so dismantled to investigate yesterday. Magnetron shows no evidence of cracked magnets or distorted structure. Measures just under 1 ohm across heater with no leakage between either of the heater terminals and the case. If I run with the cover off, there are no sparks, unusual sounds or smells of burning. The conventional oven responds correctly to door switch when opened. This model uses an inverter PCB rather than the traditional capacitor and diode arrangement, so wondered if this module could be the cause. As the part is quite expensive, I thought it would be sensible to seek advice first. Are there any other items to check, or has anyone experience of this module failing? https://www.partmaster.co.uk/control-unit/product.pl?pid=1492093&query=HBC86P753B Many Thanks Regards Mike

My Bosch,dishwasher is unresponsive. The "Add Rinse Aid" and "Add Salt" messages blink on the display whether the door is open or not, and if I press the power button, I hear a beep. Other than that, no buttons respond, and nothing activates. Any idea what would cause this?

Greetings all! Puzzled by water flow path...upper arm is spinning fine, lower arm dead in the water (pun intended). Have hard water, cleared out a stalagtite like mess a few months ago...do sulfamic acid occasionally...parts diagrams don't show a diverter valve. Any other obvious or non-obvious suggestions as to where to find problem? Thanks in advance! mbed

Hi - Rookie here, relatively handy, have taken many things apart. Often they go back together and sometimes they even work. I have a ~1yr old Bosch SHX68T55UC/07 that is pretty wonky. Behavior includes: Stopping mid cycle (power off) Pressing power may or may not work when it turns off. Position of the door may allow power button to work, but often it shuts off as you swing the door closed. Most often when power is pushed to light it back up, the time on the display is ~1hr left on an AUTO cycle (2:04 on display at start) but it has stopped relatively early in the cycle also. maybe 80% of the time it is restarted it will run to completion. The rest require Power button + Start button to resume the cycle Sometimes when I am awake and close enough to hear it running through a cycle it will turn on and off repeatedly. (we run it overnight) If I open the door at this time it is full and hot (steam escapes door). Same door position behavior, opening door may cause it to lose power, closing slightly may light it back up. Location of door is random - it doesnt turn off at the same door position each time Often in the morning it will be "off" rather than showing "clean". It rarely seems to finish at "clean" but since we dont run it in the day that could be caused by it turning itself off after it gets to "clean" and us just not being around to see it at "clean" It will randomly turn itself "on". (beep + display on top of door is alive) It will not start a cycle, but will beep on, then turn off, then beep on... and do that randomly back and forth as long as it wants. I can sometimes get this on and off to stop by opening the door and manually pushing POWER to turn it off. But just as often it will go back to beep on, off, beep on, etc. I am guessing there is water getting into a board or connection, or a board or connection is lose and the heat from the cycle causes it to 'open' (although this doesnt really explain the random turning on for me, but again I coming from relative ignorance here) I am hoping there is a way to somewhat definitively figure out what is up or at least get some steps of things to check and test. I like to tinker and have the tools, but if you deem this above my pay grade then if there is a reputable repair co in Boston Metrowest (Natick) I am open to that. Just not keen on the dart throw that calling Bosch support seems to be. (I think they referred us to sears repair with a $125 min to show up, and if that test run is the one in ten that cycles to completion without issue (as Murphy would have it) then I am sitting with a bill and a still wonky dishwasher) I have film of most of the behavior (although that may be dating myself, let's call it Video) I have seen posts in random forums stating that the door latch is an issue, and from what I can tell this is not the cause here. I can have the door open and it will still turn itself on and off. So I dont think it is the door popping open during the cycle. Additionally, if it matters, we use Cascade Gel and Cascade Rinse Aid. (against what the sticker says, but in the Bosch at my old place we got the cottage cheese in the filter and associated stink when using Finish) Thanks

Had a Ariston GL4 electric hot water heater supplementing the hot water in my condo for over ten years - just had to clean out every 6 months and replace anode rod. Finally had to replace it, believe was because a burnt appearance on left connection to electric element. Replaced it with the new replacement, the Bosch equivalent. Turned up the temp for dishwasher, then back down when done. Started smelling a burning smell when water heater turned on. Finally pulled the faceplace after smell stronger after several uses, found left electrical connection to water heater element totally burnt and black, steel on heating element base that shows without pulling element out - appears brown instead of steel looking, and maybe some greenishness. Bosch said to try to test element, and they will send out new thermostat and element - why would this happen? After cleaning tank out, I have put a bit of vinegar into the tank and flushed it out -I assume that wouldn't do it. The water heater is plugged into a GFI outlet, which I pushed the test button to ensure it is working. I have bought a heavy duty outlet strip (not a surge protector) - from TrippLIte, with its own 15 amp breaker - and the Tripp Lite OSI block or whatever surge protector, which they claim is the only product they make heavy duty enough for the water heater, which will plug into the heavy duty strip - any thoughts? The strip is necessary to be able to properly use the surge protector -

I installed a Ariston 4 gallon electric water heater to supplement my weak hot water in my condo, plumbing it so the hot water entered the cold side, and would be be boosted to the correct temperature if necessary. It had a cool on/off switch so I would just turn it off when leaving, turn it on before i needed it. The only caveat is that I had to drain the tank every six months and change the anode rod, or it would be toast before long. Many years later I think it developed a small leak, and I replaced it, I tried to buy the original Ariston but what came instead was the ugly Bosch replacement. This one has a ugly grey appearance, a dim indicator light, and to turn it off you must turn the temp dial all the way to off, and re-select the temp each time. Each of the two thermostat designs would have pros and cons, but I prefer the Ariston. The Bosch claims a "titanium lined tank" but I see no benefit to that - it doesn't stay clean any longer than the Ariston did. What really got me though is I was smelling a burning smell when the heater was on - I had turned up the temp more when using the dishwasher as I was getting a white film on brown melmac dishes, and was checking the temp where the hot water exited to see if anything was melting, and it wasn't. Finally I pulled the faceplace off after unplugging, and found the left hand wire to the heating element totally blackened and burnt - why would this happen? I didn't buy this at HD, but asked there today - and was told that the Bosch is cheaper design, and that I am not supposed to turn the heater off when leaving, just turn it way down - the instructions did not say I could not turn this unit off when I was gone - thoughts?

Hi, I guess this might have been covered before, but I couldn't find exactly this. My dishwasher works fantastic! It drains well! I can check after the cycle and it's fully dry on the bottom inside. BUT....... If I come back an hour or so later, there is clean water in the bottom, about a half an inch. Overnight? About an inch and a half. So, what part do I need? I can make it drain by pressing the two buttons on the front, but it will just begin to slowly accumulate water again!

Bosch SHE3ARF2UC/07 Dishwasher Thanks for reading. Any help would be appreciated. Water has been running out from under the machine during and after cycles. Removed the bottom access panel and observed a few express wash cycles. No drips observed, but water would collect under the front feet, puddle there and then run out from under unit. Also observed water in the brackets where the door springs ride. Disconnected and pulled the unit out to inspect. The bottom of the insulation blanket is wet around the exterior of the unit and there is water laying in the gap where the plastic bottom tub and the stainless housing meet--almost all the way around. There is no obvious signs of leaking around the water inlet/vent assembly. Fittings on the drain line, vent and supply appear dry. I was hoping this was just a door gasket, but now I'm thinking it may be even worse than I first thought. Any insight would be appreciated. Thank you so much.

This dishwasher has worked great, until now. Now when you first start it, it will drain, then start the cycle, but stops after about 15-20 seconds and just constantly beeps and only shows a water faucet (hose bib) on the front screen. Already checked and washed out the filters in the bottom. Since we ALWAYS pre-rinse all dishes, there was only a very slight film on the fine mesh after about 5 years. I have attached a picture of what I see on the screen. Also, when the machine first starts, I can hear the drain going into the garbage disposal, and it sounds strong. I have also checked to make sure the water supply valve is "on", and that none of the hoses (supply or drain) are not kinked. Suggestions on where to start looking?

This dishwasher has worked great, until now. Now when you first start it, it will drain, then start the cycle, but stops after about 15-20 seconds and just constantly beeps and only shows a water faucet (hose bib) on the front screen. Already checked and washed out the filters in the bottom. Since we ALWAYS pre-rinse all dishes, there was only a very slight film on the fine mesh after about 5 years. I have attached a picture of what I see on the screen. Also, when the machine first starts, I can hear the drain going into the garbage disposal, and it sounds strong. I have also checked to make sure the water supply valve is "on", and that none of the hoses (supply or drain) are not kinked. Suggestions on where to start looking?