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I want to replace my fridge. 23 year old 25.4 CF Kenmore SxS with water and ice in the door with a french door model. My Kenmore has been rock solid for 21 years with the exception of a start relay and door closer shims which were cheap, quick and easy to replace. I haven't ruled out new, but I would prefer used/road tested and realize there are risks. I've looked at a lot of them. New and Used. I don't really care about water in the door, but I do like my ice (crushed) in the door. I am starting to think I may be better off without water and ice in the door as far as problems are concerned. If they're quick, easy and inexpensive problems I don't mind as long as they're not chronic. I can fix those. I saw one Kitchenaid model that had steel roller slides on all the drawers and the freezer. I really likes that feature. Some of the others were just plastic sliding on plastic, and some were nylon rollers sliding on plastic. There seems to be a couple of schools of thought on these water-and-ice-in-the-door units. I've seen small footprint ones in the freezer cabinet, full size ones in the freezer cabinet and some "slim" ones on the back of the freezer door. I've also seen some models with TWO ice makers. One for the in-the-door dispenser and one down below shelling out the crescent cubes. I understand some of them have their own cooling system, and others have freezer air blown up from the bottom. Any advantages or disadvantages to these types? There appears to be pretty good documentation available for most of the mainstream brands, though I've found Samsung to be somewhat difficult to find. Many places don't don't have knowledgeable sales folks. Some of the appliance specialty stores have decent sales folks which are ok as far as features go, but they don't have a lot of info on reliability and customer satisfaction. Hence my posing the questins here. I would welcome any advice/suggestions as far as brand/model/system type reliability and performance. Keeping in mind maintenance (parts availability and pricing) as well. Anything good to look for, anything to steer clear of? Or is this just a crap shoot. Get the one I want with the features I want and "deal with it" ? Thank you.

My whirlpool side by side fridge Model number GI5FSAXVY00 stops cooling ( both main section and freezer ). It automatically starts working without any intervention, its happened twice already. When this happens, the fridge is powered on. I can hear the fan running and all the lights are on. I hear a frequent clicking sound (like a thermostat) near the bottom of the fridge. I had hired a technician to look at this issue but unfortunately the fridge started to work automatically (after 36 hours of being warm) when he was around. He checked the compressor and mentioned it was a bit hot, there was no freon leak. He couldn't check anything else and left. After around 8 hours I see the same problem, temperature is going up.

Hi Everybody, I have a GE PFE29PSDASS fridge that was not cooling and it appeared like the inverter board is at fault - getting correct signals from main board and compressor with continuity across all pins. In my man-handling attempt to get the inverter board out of the crammed space, I managed to bend the compressor line (service port ?) just enough that the line broke. I am just handy enough to order a new board and replace it, but what is the recommended course of action to get the compressor line fixed and the compressor recharged. I have limited experience with this and am not sure of my next steps now. Can I simply solder this shut and do I then need to find a way to pull a vacuum on the compressor / refrigeration system and/or how to proceed from there. I replaced a car AC compressor many moons ago and remember needing to go through those steps at the time, but have no idea if its the same here of different. Much appreciate the support! Tom

Hello, I have a lg lmxs30776d fridge that won’t dispense any water from the door but will make ice no problem. so far I’ve tested the two valves in the door that control the water to the dispense and the ice maker. Everything is working correctly, The water dispenser triggers the door valve solenoid. The main water valve on the back of the fridge only activates with the ice maker. It does not activate with the water dispenser so no water flows through the main water line that feeds the door. The Water dispenser worked randomly once while I was trouble shooting everything. I’m at a loss here. I’m thinking maybe the main controller board?

Bought a fridge from someone, they told me the repair man said there was a leak which is why they were getting rid of it. I checked for leaks and couldn't find anything, tried to start up the fridge and the compressor overload tripped a little afterwards. Figured out the low side was going into a full vacuum so I isolated the cap tube (which was completely restricted) and purged it with 300 psi of nitro until what looked like some oxidation came out the other end. I decided to flush the cap tube with one of those flush canisters and ac flush until there was an uninterrupted stream at the other end then purge with nitro afterwards. I reassembled the the cap tube, installed a new filter, triple evac, and weighed in a new charge. Checked to make sure the low side wasn't going into a vacuum and let the fridge cool down. After waiting about a full day the temp in the freezer is only showing 44 F. I have waited a couple of hours and it seems to be stuck at that temp. I have a bad feeling that the cap tube is still restricted (not completely blocked but restricted) even after I purged it. I really don't have much experience with this so I'm reaching out for some ideas why the fridge is taking so long to cool down.

The compressor on my fridge needs to be replaced. I will be attempting to do the repair but I want to know exactly what the buldge is on the high side and the suction side of compressor. I can only assume it's some sort or secondary filter drier or muffler. Does it need to be replaced along with the compressor or can it just stay there? I tried searching for the part but it isn't listed on any website that contains parts for this fridge.

Hello :) We have a Liebherr SBSbs 8673 fridge for 4 months ( we bought it used tho, freezer was unused, but seller told us that refrigerator was used for 1 year before us). And every month it stops freezing. First time fixing company changed compressor it worked fine for ~one month, next time they cleaned tubes and now, a month passed and it stopped cooling again.... Any ideas would be much appreciated, because loosing a fridge regularly is frustrating T_T

Fridge: 1.5 year old Side-by-Side Kenmore 51789 (seems to be a Whirlpool model?) Service Sheet: W10670778 A Over the last few days, I’ve noticed my fridge and freezer were slowly getting less and less cold, with the fridge seemingly doing worst at keeping cold. Looking at the freezer, I discovered some frost towards the bottom, right around the vents. I decided to (manually) defrost the fridge by turning it off (from the front-panel, leaving it plugged in). As the fridge was defrosting, I looked for some information online, which all indicate that it’s probably due to the control broad, defrost thermostat, or heater. I opened up the back panel on the freezer to find that the bottom portion (directly behind the vents) was very frozen/frosted, but the top (where the defrost thermostat is) was essentially free of frost. I ran the diagnostic tests from the service sheet (see results below), with the bi-metal test returning “bimetal open”. Since the fridge was already at room temperature, I believe that test to be normal (is that correct? the bimetal is open when the freezer is at room temperature, right?). Since there was still a lot of frost, I tried to initiate “Forced Defrost” and couldn’t get it to work (does the open bimetal prevent the “Forced Defrost” mode?). After a day/night of defrosting manually, I turned the fridge back on and it seems to be working fine/better, although I’m already seeing a little bit of frost/white on the coils (they looked dry when I turned it back on, but maybe they were not). After being back on for about 3 days (and everything being seemingly fine), I ran the diagnostic tests again and got the exact same results (see below), with the bimetal test still showing open. Although I believe this indicates a bad Defrost Thermostat (is that correct?), I’m not sure that’s the case. I wanted to try to bypass the Defrost Thermostat but it’s plugged directly into the outlet, so that would require cutting the wires to do so. I also tried to make the Defrost Thermostat cold by putting frost/ice directly on/around it to make it colder but still got the open result in the test diagnostic. Am I correct that this indicates a bad Defrost Thermostat? Is there a difference between a "Defrost Thermostat" and "bimetal"? Is there a good/foolproof way of testing it? What are my next steps? I’m trying to narrow down the problem as much as possible before committing to cutting wires and/or buying new parts…. As an additional question, I was unsure how to get the “Forced Defrost” to work (step #38 in service sheet) because it says the “command shall be sent at the exit of Service Mode”. Does that mean that I have to select the Defrost Mode (Short or Long) and exit straightaway? or do I need to go back to the step menu before exiting? Diagnostic Tests Results (same results when freezer was at room temperature and when cold): 1) FC Thermistor: O1=Pass 2) RC Thermistor: O1=Pass 3) Evaporator fan motor and Air baffle motor: displays O2 (baffle is closed) and then switches to O1 (baffle is open) 4) Compressor/Condenser Fan Motor: O1=ON 6) Defrost heater/Bi-metal: O2 = Bimetal Open 7) Defrost Mode: I set it to O1=ADC ON as indicated in the service sheet. How would you go about setting it to O2 = Basic Mode (8 hour timer) since it says “The Defrost Mode must be set to ADC ON before exiting the Service Diagnostic Mode”? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone, I've been trying to figure out what's going on with my fridge. I have a Whirlpool W8RXEGMWB00 built in 02/2010. Simply stated, one day it completely stopped cooling. I can leave it run all day and it will not drop below room temperature. The fan runs and the light works, however, the compressor is warm, so I am assuming it is not kicking on. I have tested continuity of the thermostat, which was fine, as well as continuity of the 3 prongs on the compressor, which all were equal, and also power to the inverter board and compressor, which was fine. There is only 1 single red wire that leads to the inverter that I assume is the "trigger wire" so to speak, I am unsure how to test that. I am now stuck as to where to proceed next. Any and all advice would be much appreciated. At this point my guess is it's either the inverter board, or possibly the defrost board (I am not sure if the defrost board would cause this condition or not, or how it could be tested), unless of course there is something I am missing. Thank you in advance!

GE Monogram SxS Side-by-side fridge zfsb23drbss PHOTOS: https://photos.app.goo.gl/NWvvFw157aSd8ZyQ9 Datasheet is in the photos. And Yes, I know the high / low side are swapped. All temps in Fahrenheit, Ambient 60F, 6.5oz of R134a Ok, so started kitchen remodel, wanted new fridge, fell in love with Monogram from 2005. Craigslist had one that didn't cool properly, and guy ended up giving it to me for free. So began with 25F Freezer, 45F Fridge, only 6” of frost on freezer evaporater at cap tube outlet. After removing compressor, changing POE oil, replacing filter-drier, testing 3-way valve, leak-testing / flushing with nitrogen @100PSI, and evacuating / charging, I got a cooling fridge. Current Problem: Low side in 10inHG of vacuum, should be 0-5PSIG. High side 70PSIG, normal. 1) Fridge seems to work correctly, frost on 80% of FZ evaporator, gets to normal temps 0F/37F within 6 hours. 2) Low side (read at process stub) in 10inHG of vacuum, spec calls for 0-5PSIG 3) Equalizes within 5 minutes to ~22PSI @60F, datasheet calls for minimum 40PSIG @ 70F, 4) Inverter 3-speed Compressor current is 20% lower than datasheet: 54W measured, vs datasheet 65W (Low speed). 5) Condenser is barely warm to the touch +5F of ambient, possibly because of 60F Ambient? What I gather from this, is that there is a low-side restriction, possibly in the cap-tube, or evaporator(s). So should I: A) Leave it alone, and hope it runs for a long time – is the low-side vacuum going to impact the compressor / system life? or B ) Investigate further and only quit when I get low-side pressure that is within 0-5 PSIG spec? Your feedback is very valuable, I have 2 weeks into this learning experience, and would like to enjoy the fridge already.

File Name: Kenmore LG 795.71604.010 Refrigerator Service Manual File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 05 Jan 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper LG-made Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator Model #s: 795.71602.010 795.71603.010 795.71604.010 795.71606.010 795.71609.010 P/No. MFL63293403 Click here to download this file

There was a "partial" tech sheet on the fridge. But looking for something more in depth, like comp diagnostics and thermistor ranges.

I am looking for a manual for a Kenmore fridge

I have a Samsung rf263teaesr french door fridge. A month or so ago is was cooling down to 30 degrees. Luckily I have a home warranty (highly recommend, I work in the real estate business) A service guy came out, replaced the control board and I believe the thermostat. Both tested bad. It then would not hold a consistent temperature. I put 2 thermometers in the unit and the temp would range from 34 to 49 degrees. He came out again and replaced the control board. Still had the same problem, and even if the temperature inside was 45 degrees, the display would always show the current temperature being where I had it set which was 37. If I dropped the temp to 35, the display would show the temp inside as being 37 (which was where I had it previously set) then in a few minutes the actual and the set temps would both match up at 35 even though the 2 thermometers inside say 45. I then used a laser and it registered 45, I took out a jar of liquid, put a meat probe in it and it said 45. So I am confident the temp is indeed 45 even though the fridge doesn't agree and says whatever I have it set at. I also notice my fridge never seems to make noice like it's trying to cool. My guy came back and replaces the cooling fan or something like that. This morning all is still the same. Temp somewhere in the 40s, display showing a temp that is where I have it set at. To me who doesn't know anything sounds like a thermostat issue. I am starting to feel like the repair guy thinks I'm crazy, but the temp from 4 thermometers should match the set temp of the fridge after being closed all night. Any thoughts?

Just pulled this one out of storage after 6 months - compressor and condenser fan will not run - evap fan running full speed. Has had "no cooling" issues in the past - but always seems to fix itself after a day or two. Not this time - just plugged it in - and nothing happening. I suspect the wonderful dual digital display control board (@ $150 - Ouch) but I'm going to check for voltage at the condenser fan and at the compressor start relay - before I spend $$$ on a new control board. Any other things to check? Condenser coil is clean enough - and I would think the compressor would start up in any case from a dead warm siesta. Compressor doesn't even try to start - no clicks, no nuthin... Frigidaire/Electrolux Side by Side manf 10/2007 Thanks !!!

GE PFSS0MFZBSS Refrigerator Mini Manual View File PUB 31-51798 Submitter Lighthouse Submitted 11/30/2017 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

My whirlpool refrigerator (model GB2FHDXWB02 ) keeps having to be defrosted. We wake up one morning and the fridge is about 60 degrees and the freezer is still cold. I've defrosted it multiple times. There is always a puddle on the floor after the defrost so something was clogged somewhere. This has now become a monthly occurrence. Any ideas on how I can troubleshoot this? Can I flush the line with hot water? Replace the fan? From what I could find based on the serial number that starts "K1..." The appliance was built in 2011 (39th week) Years ago I replaced the condensation tube with the P-trap replacement part issued from Whirlpool. This issue is fairly recent so it seems they are not connected. Thanks very much for your help Matt

106.54582400 Need tech sheet! thx!

Hello everyone, I have a small Danby refrigerator (DFF8200W). The freezer on top worked fine but the dial to adjust the temperature in the fridge was jammed and the temperature in the fridge rose way up. I removed the fridge inside middle panel and discovered that ice built up at the top of the middle conduct. Water seems to drip from the freezer. When I let the ice melt and put it back, the dial can rotate and the fridge temperature goes down below freezing. Ice builds up again in the conduct within a few days which steadily increase the temperature in the fridge again. Do you have any idea why ice builds up in the conduct? Is there anything I can do to fix this? Thanks

The freezer hasn't been able to freeze ice cubes for a year, but now it's not very cold at all, and the refrigerator itself seems to be getting less cool, too. I cleaned out the freezer and noticed that in the right back corner of the freezer, a block of ice has formed. I'd love any help I can get on how to troubleshoot this problem.

I noticed my ge refrigerator wasn't cooling properly so being the diy er I am I decided to look up what it could be and aw something about frost on the back wall of the freezer so i took it apart and low and behold there was frost built up I purchased the right heater element and the defrost terminator and waited about a day and there's no more frost but the freezer is still hovering at 45 and the fridge 68 to 75... Its killing me and I'm not sure what the heck to do!! All the fans and the compressor is working so i'm just so confused and really need some help please! Thanks in advance!!