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Found 22 results

  1. I have an LG refrigerator model LFC21700ST which has side by side at top and freezer on bottom - that is not cooling either in the refrigerator or freezer. Prior to this water leaked on the floor fairly frequently and ice sheets were deposited in the bottom of the freezer. A week ago it stopped cooling but has power and lights and the compressor gets warm but not overly warm – fans also run and go off when doors are open. One click is heard just before the compressor starts and this seems to come from the main board. I have done a number of things so far and there has been no improvement: 1. Changed the main board – I had one already and thought this would rule this outlines 2. Changed the thermistor w/ fuse 3. Changed the start relay and overload – but the old one is actually good – and compressor did not start with new start relay and overload - both start relays had similar continuities and both capacitors with within tolerances. 4 Checked the heat coil continuity which is ok – and no error code during test mode 5. Examined evap coils in freezer as far as I can tell - ok 6. Cleaned the drain from freezer which had trash in it 7. Cleaned compressor condenser coils 8. Checked compressor for short – ok 9. Checked continuity of compressor pins – ok – I think 6,6,12 roughly – one may have been a little lower than the other rather than 6,6 10. Checked receptacle and plug - ok 11. Checked lower wires between compressor and plug to wires running to main board – ok 12 Checked continuity from hot spade of plug to hot connector on plug of harness running from main board N pin to capacitor on compressor start relay 13. Checked continuity from hot (and neutral) spade on plug to black wire ( that runs next to blue wire) running from main board L pin for start relay - here there was no continuity (OL) and I did not know if this actually ran from the hot side or neutral of the plug but I am guessing hot but there was no continuity on either anyway -should there be? Or is there some switch that is open until a close is called for or vice versa? 14. The amp draw on both blue line (N to capacitor) and black line (L to PTC) is 0.5 A – initially 0.7-.8 then drops to around 0.5A and stays as long as it is plugged in. There is one click at the main panel just before the compressor turns on and one as it turns off otherwise runs quietly and it gets gently warm and the vibrations can be felt - seems like maybe not enough power to compressor(?) 15. Ran tests as indicated on back of refrigerator and got no error codes. 16. I did not check for compressor run from isolated plug because I do not have one and was not sure how to do it safely Any ideas? Can it be a damaged black wire in the upper harness to the main board limiting power input to compressor? Can it be the compressor, or another related part interfering with the working of the compressor? Also I was told that low amp draw if everything else is normal may indicate low coolant level, is this true (even if not necessarily in this case?) I do not understand the necessary connections between these components and their internal workings well enough to draw any reliable conclusions yet. Thanks for any help anyone is able to offer. Pauli
  2. From the album Refrigerator Repair

    Models: RF265ADBP/XAA / RF265ADPN/XAA / RF265ADWP/XAA / RF266ADBP/XAA / RF266ADPN/XAA / RF266ADRS/XAA / RF266ADWP/XAA / RF267ADBP/XAA / RF267ADPN/XAA / RF267ADRS/XAA / RF267ADWP/XAA / RF26VADBP/XAA / RF26VADPN/XAA / RF26VADWP/XAA / RFG237AABP/XAA / RFG237AAPN/XAA / RFG237AARS/XAA / RFG237AAWP/XAA / RFG238AARS/XAA / RFG295AABP/XAA / RFG295AAPN/XAA / RFG295AARS/XAA / RFG295AAWP/XAA / RFG295ABBP/XAA / RFG295ABPN/XAA / RFG295ABRS/XAA / RFG295ABWP/XAA / RFG297AABP/XAA / RFG297AAPN/XAA / RFG297AARS/XAA / RFG297AAWP/XAA / RFG297ABBP/XAA / RFG297ABPN/XAA / RFG297ABRS/XAA / RFG297ABWP/XAA / RFG298AABP/XAA / RFG298AAPN/XAA / RFG298AARS/XAA / RFG298AAWP/XAA / RFG299AARS/XAA / RFG299ABRS/XAA
  3. I have a Viking refrigerator model vcbb363rss. The problem is the compressor is not turning on at all. I checked the inverter and it is bad. I took it apart and there was some brown fluid in there and one of the capacitors has exploded. The other capacitor has a pretty big bulge. Problem is the model number on the inverter is vcc3 1156 02a 03. This inverter is not sold anymore. Is there a new inverter that will replace it and if so part/model number? Thanks in advance for your help!
  4. Hello everyone. My Kenmore refrigerator began to make clicking noises three weeks ago after a power outage. I have replaced the relay twice with new ones. Replaced the cold control because it was going bad. Replaced the defrost board. Refrigerator is still clicking every 3-4 minutes, lights inside dim. The model number is 106.51103.10. It is only four years old. Capacitor checks OK. The readings that I am getting from the compressor are from the two bottom prongs: (8.5) from the common to the other prongs. (3.0) and (5.7). What should I do next? Is the compressor a goner? Thank you.
  5. Bosch Variable Capacity Compressor (VCC) Refrigerator Testing Procedure View File PUB 58300000149521 Submitter Samurai Appliance Repair Man Submitted 02/25/2016 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper
  6. Version 1.0.0

    32 downloads

    PUB 58300000149521
  7. About a year ago, my Sub Zero 501R thermal protector (attached to the common terminal of the EM30SC compressor) cracked and I was unable to find a replacement and so I replaced the thermal protector and the current type relay with an aftermarket hard-start solid state unit (Supco RCO810 3 n' 1 START Hard Start Kit). It has worked fine for a year but I suspect that the compressor was starting to go which stressed the original thermal protector (either that or that the aftermarket kit was a bad idea) and now the compressor appears to have failed. The compressor ohms out OK (7/16/24) but it simply won't start and now the compressor has started to make a little growling sound when trying to start (bearings perhaps?). I found a replacement compressor (EMI30ER1) which is 1/10 HP (tech specs here: http://www.alltemp.ca/wp-content/files_mf/1383318357EmbracoCat2013_email.pdf). The Q: Would there be any reason, or benefit, to replacing it with a slightly larger 1/8 HP compressor instead? The EMI45ER1 appears to be a slightly larger cousin and had the benefit of not requiring a start capacitor and is basically the same price. Also, under the "bigger is better" theory I'd expect that a bit more HP means that a slightly bigger unit wouldn't have to work as hard but not sure if that'd be wise (or if it would be the case) with a refrigerator compressor. I'm having a hard time finding the replacement drier (SZ 3014230 was original or 7006964 is newer) but I found Supco SUD8358 as a cross-referenced replacement. If anyone recommends against this, please let me know. Last, I have all of the equipment (oxy-A torch, R12 recovery/charging unit, etc.) but I'd prefer to have a local person do the brazing (install the compressor and filter/drier) if you know of anyone near San Jose that'd be interested in just that part of the job. I could take it from there. Just to have all of the 501R info in one place, the R-12 capacity is 8 oz for serial #s prior to M658665/P662865 or 9 oz for serial #s M658666-M1204240 or P662865 to P1214190. Subsequent to those serial #s the unit apparently was charged with 134a and of course with a different compressor and parts than I've listed above. All this info is per this SZ technical data sheet: http://subzerospecialists.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/500techdata.pdf Thanks in advance for any help or advice. Ruprik
  8. From the album Refrigerator Repair

  9. From the album Refrigerator Repair

  10. File Name: 8201786 Instructions for Compressor Start Kit File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 28 Jul 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Instruction Sheet 8201792B Click here to download this file
  11. Version

    27 downloads

    Instruction Sheet 8201792B
  12. From the album Refrigerator Repair

  13. Whirlpool thru-wall A/C, 10000-12000 BTU range. 220v unit running in a small condo unit. Set up to cool living room and kitchen, not sure of sq footage but these rooms are small. The unit initially cools but compressor cuts out within 15 minutes and usually doesnt come back. Makes a smell described as "musty". I measured 206v at the outlet, changes less than 1/2 volt with load (compressor on/off). I assume this means that the condo building is supplied with 3-phase power. Unit draws ~3.25A with compressor on. It didnt cut out while I was there, maybe a hot day makes a difference. This unit has been replaced twice, so cant be manufacturing defect. There are no obstructions on the exhaust as far as I can tell. It is on the sunny south-facing side of the condo but I cant imagine that makes a difference. My hunch is that these units cant tolerate 208v power supplied by 3-phase service, and the compressor is overheating. So easiest solution is to install a 110v unit, rewiring the outlet? Any ideas appreciated. TIA, Charley
  14. From the album Refrigerator Repair

    Buy the replacement start device here: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Start-Device/8201786/1177466 Watch the video here:
  15. Version

    54 downloads

    Electrolux technical policy and explanation regarding the use of hard start kits in refrigerator compressors.
  16. File Name: Use of Hard Start Kits on Refrigerator Compressors - Electrolux Policy File Submitter: Samurai Appliance Repair Man File Submitted: 11 May 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper Electrolux technical policy and explanation regarding the use of hard start kits in refrigerator compressors. Click here to download this file
  17. File Name: KLIXON 4TM Compressor Overload and Start Relays Technical Bundle File Submitter: RegUS_PatOff File Submitted: 07 Feb 2013 File Category: Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper KLIXON 4TM Compressor OVERLOADS KLIXON PTC START RELAYS 8EA SUPCO HARD START RELAYS Click here to download this file
  18. Version

    129 downloads

    KLIXON 4TM Compressor OVERLOADS KLIXON PTC START RELAYS 8EA SUPCO HARD START RELAYS
  19. Was wondering if anyone had any advice on the overload and relay for the compressor on a water cooler. My local parts distributor doens't stock parts for this brand and cannot reccomend a 'generic' compressor relay and overload for this tucomseh compressor. Anyone have any part numbers for me that will work?? Thanks Guys!
  20. From the album Refrigerator Repair

    Photo courtesy of Academy Professor Emeritus Willie. See this topic for detailed discussion of these thangs ==>
  21. From the album Refrigerator Repair

    Photo courtesy of Academy Professor Emeritus Willie. See this topic for detailed discussion of these thangs ==>
  22. From the album Refrigerator Repair

    To learn more about your refrigerator and dispenser, or to order parts ==> Click Here