PGSS5PJXCSS - Cooling Issues... a mystery!

[VonRott]

I have a PGSS5PJXC GE refrigerator that is having cooling issues. The fridge temperature is suppose to be at 37 degrees and is holding around 39 degrees. The freezer is suppose to be at 0 degrees but it's at 24-28 degrees. I have replaced the inverter last year and it worked fine, thanks to you guys! I first did a visual inspection of the main boards (mother board) front and back and everything look fine. I then checked voltages to and from the board. I have checked the voltage for it at the J15 plug of the main board and it was fine. Also checked voltages from the J2 plug  for the condenser fan, evaporator fan, fresh food fan, supply voltage and they all read normal. I checked the thermisters off of J1 and they all seem to be within operating ranges. There was one thermister that read only 4.4kohms off of pin 5 and 2 off the J1 but found out is was a thermister that resides under the fridge towards towards front near the grill base cover. Although the freezer thermister (pins 5 and ) read 17.7ohms at a temperature of 35 degrees. Another one being the fresh food thermister at pins 5 and 1 read 15.5 ohms while the thermister was placed in a cup of ice water which temperature read 15.9 ohms while being placed in a cup of ice water which read 33 degrees. 

So now I don't know what to do. I feel cold air coming thru the vents in the fridge and freezer. I guess the only thing I can do is to remove the back wall cover to expose the check the freezer coils. I should check for a light frosting on them and put that thermister in ice water and recheck the ohms on that. However, when I checked that thermister before it read 15.2ohms at 32 degrees.

I am sort of desperate here so any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And whatever parts I order from you guys can you tell me if I am able to return them if that wasn't the issue?

Thanks in advance for your help. You guys are my last hope. I am disabled and a vet and can not afford a technician.

[Hiroshi]

Hmmm, let us know what that freezer evaporator looks like ok? The GE Ni-Chrome wire in a glass tube defrost heaters do love to burn out... Sounds like the fridge side is acceptable temperature, so you have that going for you.

[VonRott]

Quote

Hmmm, let us know what that freezer evaporator looks like ok? The GE Ni-Chrome wire in a glass tube defrost heaters do love to burn out... Sounds like the fridge side is acceptable temperature, so you have that going for you.

Wow! Thanks for such a quick response, I am very impressed and grateful! Yes the fridge sounds acceptable but i am able to set the temp on both the fridge and freezer to below or above the recommended temp setting. However, I try to set the fridge temperature to a lower setting but it will not go. It chooses it's own temp. But like you said at least I have that going for me so the milk and whatnot is not spoiling for the kids.

I will take apart the back wall of the freezer and see what it looks like and will come back on to inform you on what I see.

Again, thanks so much to replying back to my post. You are really helping me out with this!

[VonRott]

2 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

Hmmm, let us know what that freezer evaporator looks like ok? The GE Ni-Chrome wire in a glass tube defrost heaters do love to burn out... Sounds like the fridge side is acceptable temperature, so you have that going for you.

Oh, I forgot to mention which I'm sure is important. I recall last year after watching one of your videos on detecting why everything was warm. As it turned out I had to replace the inverter which took care of the problem. I do recall at the time after that the fridge was up and running that the compressor was warm to the touch (I hope I remembered that correctly). Anyway, right now it is hot to the touch and I mean hot where you can't leave your hand on it more than a couple of seconds if that. I did test the field winding on it and all 3 tests read 7.7 ohms which was acceptable. And as I mentioned before the inverter is fine thru testing the voltage to and from it.

So what would the issue be for the compressor being to hot? Is it because it's constantly running or? If so what would be making this do that? And is that what could be the issue as to why the fridge and freezer are not maintaining their required temperatures? Other than that the fans tested correctly thru the main board.

I should have mentioned this earlier cause I feel that may be a big clue as to why the fridge and freezer are not maintaining their required temperatures. I'm still going to check the freezer back wall and do a visual inspection and test the thermister while submerged into a cup of ice water.

Thanks so much again! I report back after I check behind the rear wall of the freezer. I wish there was a video in how to remove it cause it's not as simple as some of these other refrigerator videos I have seen.

[BrewHobbyTech]

35 minutes ago, VonRott said:

Oh, I forgot to mention which I'm sure is important. I recall last year after watching one of your videos on detecting why everything was warm. As it turned out I had to replace the inverter which took care of the problem. I do recall at the time after that the fridge was up and running that the compressor was warm to the touch (I hope I remembered that correctly). Anyway, right now it is hot to the touch and I mean hot where you can't leave your hand on it more than a couple of seconds if that. I did test the field winding on it and all 3 tests read 7.7 ohms which was acceptable. And as I mentioned before the inverter is fine thru testing the voltage to and from it.

So what would the issue be for the compressor being to hot? Is it because it's constantly running or? If so what would be making this do that? And is that what could be the issue as to why the fridge and freezer are not maintaining their required temperatures? Other than that the fans tested correctly thru the main board.

 

A dirty condenser and/or condenser fan not running will cause the compressor to overheat and shut off with the overload. When the compressor cools down enough it will turn back on. Sounds like an airflow issue and will cause the symptoms you're describing. Make sure the condenser fan is running. If not it could be the fan motor itself, but I've found that it's usually the main board, and you may have to replace both. 

[VonRott]

1 hour ago, BrewHobbyTech said:

A dirty condenser and/or condenser fan not running will cause the compressor to overheat and shut off with the overload. When the compressor cools down enough it will turn back on. Sounds like an airflow issue and will cause the symptoms you're describing. Make sure the condenser fan is running. If not it could be the fan motor itself, but I've found that it's usually the main board, and you may have to replace both. 

Ahh I can't believe this everything i just wrote got deleted somehow. Anyway, after the removal of the freezer back wall I was able to view the condenser. It was cool to the touch but didn't have a light layer of frost on it. However, that could have been because of how long it took me to remove everything out of the way in order to gain access to the rear panel. As I tested on the main board all the fans showed that they were getting power to them. Also I was able to feel the cold air being blown thru the freezer and fridge vents. Now that the condenser cold were visible i was able to see the fan running and tested the thermister with a cup full of ice water reading at 34 degrees than took an ohm reading of the J1 plug pins 5 and 4 which gave a reading of 15.9 ohms. I also tested the freezer thermister from pins 5 and 3 with a cold cup of water and a little ice. That cup temperature reading was at 39 degrees and gave a reading of 12.8 ohms. Just to give the remain two thermister readings. The fridge thermister (fresh food) from pins 5 and 1 with a cup of ice water at 34 degrees gave a reading of 15.9 ohms. Again as I mentioned in my first paragraph the remaining thermister is under the the fridge near the base grill cover read 4.4 ohms but that had a temperature in the mid to upper 80's...

So that's where I am now. Really i don't know if the compressor ever shuts off but then I'm not sitting back there to see or hear it. But it appears that the fans are working everywhere. I don't know what else to check. I gave you all the info i have other than the exact voltage reading for each fan that I tested where in the exact voltage range they are suppose to be. I think I did everything possible. I'll just count on you at this point as to what you think I should purchase to repair this issue i'm having. If you want me to do anything or to test something which I think I pretty much covered and took proper notes that I can most likely give the exact reading for.

Thanks again for all your help. I'm just frustrated at this point and the being the the fridge temperature hits around 39 when it's default temp is 37 and the freezer temp is 25 where the default setting is 0. I have the ability to control the temp to 5 plus or 5 minus bt the fridge doesn't want to listen. So it seems like it's set in its way. Also the ice maker only makes ice what appears to be once in a 24 hour period. 

So that's it. You have my fridges life in your hand. Hopefully you can comfortably guess what I need to purchase and replace to get this GE fridge going again.

[BrewHobbyTech]

The evaporator is in the freezer section. The condenser is behind the refrigerator opposite the compressor. I'm guessing your condenser fan is not running and/or your condenser is clogged. In other words, air is not moving which is causing the compressor to over heat and shut off on the overload. If this is the case, and your fan is not running, a quick temporary fix would be to move the fridge out from the wall, remove to back bottom panel and put a regular house fan back there to keep the air flowing. This will help remove the heat from the compressor and condenser and allow the refrigerator to run somewhat normal. Let me know what you find.  

[VonRott]

 

5 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

Hmmm, let us know what that freezer evaporator looks like ok? The GE Ni-Chrome wire in a glass tube defrost heaters do love to burn out... Sounds like the fridge side is acceptable temperature, so you have that going for you.

 

Hey there  Hiroshi, I don't know if you've been following my post but I forgot to mention to you that I found that Ni_Chrome wire up under the the evaporator. However, i couldn't tell if it was burnt out. I didn't see any burned out spots on the glass thru the entire glass tube. I will try to test the resistance on it once I figure out where it gets it's power from the back of the fridge which I'm guessing is from the main board. Also I left the back wall off so I can get access to it in case I need to replace something there. So I put the doors or drawers back on again. It appears that there is a light bit of frosting starting to build up at least on one of the tubes leading to the evaporator.

[VonRott]

53 minutes ago, BrewHobbyTech said:

The evaporator is in the freezer section. The condenser is behind the refrigerator opposite the compressor. I'm guessing your condenser fan is not running and/or your condenser is clogged. In other words, air is not moving which is causing the compressor to over heat and shut off on the overload. If this is the case, and your fan is not running, a quick temporary fix would be to move the fridge out from the wall, remove to back bottom panel and put a regular house fan back there to keep the air flowing. This will help remove the heat from the compressor and condenser and allow the refrigerator to run somewhat normal. Let me know what you find.  

53 minutes ago, BrewHobbyTech said:

Sorry about that I got the two mixed up. But as I mentioned all the testing I have done from the J15 to the inverter and all the fans on the J2 plug as well as all the thermisters on the J1 plug off the mother board. I've been back behind the refrigerator countless times that I haven't replaced neither of the 2 covers. So when testing the inverter and the field windings of the compressor I noticed that it was running hot. And yes the fan is running in the condenser. So no need for a floor fan there. 

Again, I don't kn ow where to go from here. Any input is obviously respected. Hopefully, I can get this narrowed down to a part or two to have replaced.

Thanks as always!

 

[BrewHobbyTech]

If the condenser is not clogged and the fan is running but your compressor is very hot to the touch then my guess would be that it's running at a high amperage, which would be a bad compressor or possibly a bad inverter board. which is causing the compressor to keep shutting off until it cools down enough to restart. That's my best guess with the info you've provided. I'll keep an eye on this thread to see if anyone can figure out the problem. 

[VonRott]

 

1 minute ago, BrewHobbyTech said:

If the condenser is not clogged and the fan is running but your compressor is very hot to the touch then my guess would be that it's running at a high amperage, which would be a bad compressor or possibly a bad inverter board. which is causing the compressor to keep shutting off until it cools down enough to restart. That's my best guess with the info you've provided. I'll keep an eye on this thread to see if anyone can figure out the problem. 

Well I try to leave a temp sensor on my compressor to see when and if at all it will shut off. Like I mentioned I replaced the inverter last year. that would blow if it was another inverter board. Does anyone think it can me the Mother board being bad? I mean I was able to do every test I learned to do on the main board successfully however maybe there is something else on there that may be messing up the whole system. if there is it's nothing I can physically see or have tested negatively that I know for certain. This is my 4th day with a non trustworthy fridge but this is the first sight that is willing to help me for which I am grateful for. :-) I just hope I can find an answer soon...

[VonRott]

So I haven't noticed the compressor turning off nor have I nor do I know for sure if it really had. But being hot as it is does anyone think of anything else for me to check to determine why it's so hot?? I'm out of options here as to why the temps aren't reaching their default levels for both the fridge and the freezer. I hope someone can help me out...

[lvasquez11]

Sounds like compressor runs non stop due to a seal system failure.

Frost pattern should be even on evaporator.

 

[VonRott]

Yes, it doesn't appear that there is even frost on the evaporator. So is there a solution for this? Does the compressor need to be replaced or does it need more Freon  or both?  Is there another way to resolve this issue?

[VonRott]

31 minutes ago, lvasquez11 said:

Sounds like compressor runs non stop due to a seal system failure.

Frost pattern should be even on evaporator.

 

I was wondering if it's a seal system failure does that mean like some freon leaked. If that's the case than why would it the fridge hold its temperature around 39 degrees and the freezer around 25 degrees? If there was a seal system failure than wouldn't it make it all run warm? I don't know what to do.

[lvasquez11]

compressor is hot - how does discharge line from compressor n condensor temp feel to the touch.

If compressor is short cycling it will also be hot.

Part number: Bpv31
You can use this type of valve to recharge system. 

[VonRott]

1 hour ago, lvasquez11 said:

compressor is hot - how does discharge line from compressor n condensor temp feel to the touch.

If compressor is short cycling it will also be hot.

Part number: Bpv31
You can use this type of valve to recharge system. 

I tried to put up a picture but I couldn't upload it. Anyway, the discharge line is a little warm closer to the compressor and cool at the other end before it goes up into the back wall of the freezer. The condenser is not hot, maybe slightly warmth to cool. 

I seen a video of a guy using that method (from your picture) to charge up his compressor. He said it had to be around 3 to 5 pounds. Is that correct? So is this what I need to do?

Thanks...

[evaappliance]

3 to 5 ounces , they don't take very much . From what I have read here is seems that you do have a system issue, but unfortunately if it is low on freon , adding is a temporary fix . It will leak out again , but may get you out of a bind. Compressor is almost impossible for a customer to fix themselves . I know you are in a bind but don't waste your money on this unless there is no other choice, put your resorces to getting a CHEAP new fridge.  More money will not mean a better product .  I'm so sorry !!!!

[VonRott]

1 hour ago, evaappliance said:

3 to 5 ounces , they don't take very much . From what I have read here is seems that you do have a system issue, but unfortunately if it is low on freon , adding is a temporary fix . It will leak out again , but may get you out of a bind. Compressor is almost impossible for a customer to fix themselves . I know you are in a bind but don't waste your money on this unless there is no other choice, put your resorces to getting a CHEAP new fridge.  More money will not mean a better product .  I'm so sorry !!!!

Thanks for being blunt and honest about my situation. I started to realize after I did all of my tests that it may be something related to the compressor. Being that it's a seal system failure why is it able to still cool? I mean if a car has a similar issue like that it winds up losing all it's Freon. I don't understand how its still able to cool it's either a closed system or not. So if some Freon leaked out I think all of it should be leaking out. I'm not second guessing your judgement and I know that your assessment is correct, there's nothing else it could be.... Since it's a closed system and Freon happened to leak out I should be a spot I would think all the of the gas would wind up leaking out not just a little. Another question I have is there a way to be able to to find where it may have leaked out. Like in auto AC systems you can buy Freon with a dye in it to be able to locate the leak. However I maybe mixing oranges with apples by comparing an auto refrigerant to a refrigerator refrigerant.

I would like to try adding some refrigerant to it first even if it's a temporary fix. It'll at least buy me some time till I am able to get another refrigerator. I guess my only question is to know exactly what I need to purchase and from where. You mention 3 to 5 ounces but the video I say showed that on his gauge he was targeting between 3 and 5 pounds of pressure maybe? Is that correct? Either way it was from a single can. I didn't book mark it and hopefully I can find it again but if not do you or someone else know what exactly I need and from where to get this all? I know even the gauge is different than one that you use for automobiles.

I say it every time but I'm am sincere every time I say it. thanks so much for all of your help!

[evaappliance]

you are welcome , yes the low side pressure with it running  should be close to 2 or 3  pounds , I discourage using 134a with dye or any stop leak . it will stop up your system. cars work way different and have bigger lines.  better to just keep adding.  the fridge temp is tricky to explain but happens all the time.  hope you have good luck adding Freon !!!!!!

[VonRott]

14 hours ago, lvasquez11 said:

 

So can someone tell me where to get a can of Freon and the connector with a gauge so it would connect from the Freon can and to this Bullet Piercing Valve. Oh and possible precise instructions. And I was told to connect to the low side and not the high right??

I appreciate all the help you all have given me. If I could I'd definitely buy you all a couple of rounds at  Chili's. Or my typical place when I use to throw back a couple would be a dive in the wall with a pool table. lol

 

[VonRott]

You know after trying to find the type of refrigerant and adapter to go on the valve I realized that I can quickly find out if the compressor leaked out any refrigerant at all. Once I put on that Bullet Piercing Valve i can take a reading of how many pounds it is reading off the gauge. If it's within normal operating condition I can determine that is isn't  or it is for the lack of refrigerant.

My compressor states that it uses R134a freon. And I just need to determine if it really suppose to read 3 to 5 pounds on the gauges. I got that number from YouTube video but the person was using it an a complete different fridge. Although it may apply to mine as well, I'm just not sure.

Anyway, any guidance with this would be appreciated otherwise once I check it and whether it needs a charge or not I'll come back and give an update.

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[evaappliance]

if you have a leak it will be in a vacuum 

[johntech]

You need to be epa certified to buy freon. 

[VonRott]

You don't need to be anything to buy R134a freon! You can even go to Walmart and buy cans of it on sale for 4 bucks and some change... I do it on cars all the time and now that I know it uses that type of freon it's a no brainer. i can even use my vacuum for my auto ac on it with the correct adapter for the  Bullet Piercing Valve  that was pictured above from lvasquez11...

So when I get all the parts I'll come back and post the results. Again Thanks...