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Roper clothes washer stuck humming - RTW4440VQ1


Recommended Posts

Posted
25 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

Once you remove the agitator, the transmission is held on by three 1/2 inch bolts... once those are removed you can tip the unit back and slide the transmission shaft out of the basket drive and expose the clutch. I tend to put the transmission over a bucket, so it will sit still and flatly while you fiddle with the "c" clip and shepherd's crook pin that hold the clutch to the transmission shaft. If there is a bunch of nasty black residue in the clutch housing, it will be trans fluid. 

What is the part number for the lid switch? Thanks!

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Top Posters In This Topic

  • renfield

    21

  • Hiroshi

    13

  • evaappliance

    8

  • Mark F

    3

Posted

No, and if it did, you would still want the new clutch lining. To confirm, if the clutch lining will slip if you try to spin it by hand, it is no good. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Hiroshi said:

No, and if it did, you would still want the new clutch lining. To confirm, if the clutch lining will slip if you try to spin it by hand, it is no good. 

Ok, I've ordered the second part you recommended. The one with the housing and all. Hopefully that will take care of it. Thanks!

(I just need that whole kit, not both parts?)

Posted

The kit will come with the lining too, it just isn't pictured... 

Posted
2 hours ago, Hiroshi said:

I am thinking you may have the very uncommon "double-phasing " timer, or the start capacitor in the motor start circuit is bad.

this may still be whats going on , also they are bad about having a bad connection where the red capacitor wire hooks to the motor , when it was wiggled may be why it is not failing for the moment.  

Posted
On 10/5/2016 at 3:53 PM, Hiroshi said:

No, and if it did, you would still want the new clutch lining. To confirm, if the clutch lining will slip if you try to spin it by hand, it is no good. 

OK, I installed the clutch. The old housing did not have black gunk in it, although the washer that goes on top of the whole assembly was a little sticky and black. I cleaned it, I put in the new housing, reassembled. It ran fine empty. I didn't do the 'grab the basin' to try and stop it by hand bit, I'd already put the cabinet back on. 

 

Same symptom occurs. It fills with water, agitates, and then makes the loud hum sound, and proceeds no further. no drain, no spin, no progress.

 

What do I check next?

Posted
On 10/5/2016 at 4:02 PM, evaappliance said:

this may still be whats going on , also they are bad about having a bad connection where the red capacitor wire hooks to the motor , when it was wiggled may be why it is not failing for the moment.  

Did you check for this ?

Posted
Just now, evaappliance said:

Did you check for this ?

I never wiggled the wires at the capacitor. I can take the wires off and on again to see that the connections are clean/on firmly.

 

What should I do after I do that?

Posted

I am referring to where the wires hook to the moter, the bottom one is from the capacitor and is bad about getting a intermittent connection . 

Posted
10 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

I am referring to where the wires hook to the moter, the bottom one is from the capacitor and is bad about getting a intermittent connection . 

I did remove and reconnect the harness to the motor when I pulled out the motor and transmission to replace the clutch. No change in symptom.

 

In a few minutes, I can get out my meter and check continuity from the cap to the connector at the motor if you think that's the right way to go about it?

Posted

that would be good , and read from the cap to the timer. did you say you checked the capacitor itself ?  if all this is for sure  good , it will be the timer deal that hiroshi spoke of .

Posted
22 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

that would be good , and read from the cap to the timer. did you say you checked the capacitor itself ?  if all this is for sure  good , it will be the timer deal that hiroshi spoke of .

I did not check the cap itself. 

Tell me how you'd like me to check the cap?

Posted

for sure need to check it . little tricky to explain but i use a analog  ohm meter . if thats what you have i can try to explain it

Posted
9 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

for sure need to check it . little tricky to explain but i use a analog  ohm meter . if thats what you have i can try to explain it

Digital multimeter here. I can't think of where I last saw my analog.

Posted

maybe someone can chime in and that knows how to check one accurately with a digital one , i have only used a analog meter and a 40 year old capacitor checker 

Posted
20 minutes ago, evaappliance said:

maybe someone can chime in and that knows how to check one accurately with a digital one , i have only used a analog meter and a 40 year old capacitor checker 

I still want to check the cap, but when I was checking continuity, the red wire fell out of the connector molding at the motor. It broke off just before the crimp.

I'm repairing that now. Still want to check capacitor and timer. Let me know how to do it on the analog meter and I'll see if I can't find one.

Posted

I bet you found your problem,   with the cap unplugged ohm the cap. the meter should go over then fall back, switch the two leads and ohm it again ,the same thing should happen . if it goes over and stays or doesn't go over at all the cap is bad.

Posted
1 hour ago, evaappliance said:

I bet you found your problem,   with the cap unplugged ohm the cap. the meter should go over then fall back, switch the two leads and ohm it again ,the same thing should happen . if it goes over and stays or doesn't go over at all the cap is bad.

I ran a small load and it made it through a complete start-to-finish. I'm running a larger load now. The motor doesn't seem to have trouble starting, so I'm fine with it. When it's agitating, it makes a bit of a small banging noise at first, but I'm not sure how big or small an issue that is.

Posted
7 hours ago, renfield said:

I ran a small load and it made it through a complete start-to-finish. I'm running a larger load now. The motor doesn't seem to have trouble starting, so I'm fine with it. When it's agitating, it makes a bit of a small banging noise at first, but I'm not sure how big or small an issue that is.

 

Play in the transmission is the likely culprit of your agitation noise. I replace these regularly for this reason.

Posted

Don't worry to much about that noise , hope your washer is all good now ?

Posted

Thanks to Evaappliance, mikeyjd and hiroshi!

 

Washer is now on its third load (we had a power outage all night due to Matthew) or I would have run more. I appreciate all the help!

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