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GE GSS22JEPA WW Refrigerator is warm, freezer is cold


KMdealer

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So i have a GE GSS22JEPA WW Side by side refrigerator, the freezer will work as normal, but the refrigerator is staying at about 70 degrees, what i discovered was that the flap which lets cold air into the refrigerator side is closing no matter what setting i put the fridge at, so id imagine some kind of sensor is telling it to shut

I will be enrolling in HVAC & Refrigeration classes in the near future, and this is the first time ive taken a stab at refrigerators

 

What do i need to check and replace to fix this issue, how do i go about figuring this out...... Thanks in advance

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This is a more traditional machine that produces cooling in the freezer and uses a fan to blow the cold air into the fridge side of the unit. So, first step is to investigate WHY the cold air is not making it into the fridge side ( usually referred to as the FF 'fresh food' compartment), common causes are: a failed fan motor, a failed defrost system, or a failed diffuser door ( often called a damper).

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the diffuser door opens for a brief minute then shuts and does not let the cold air into the refrigerator side, that is Why its not making it into the fridge side

What im trying to figure out now is, Why is the door shutting

 

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There is a series of sensors in these machines that affect damper function... but, the first thing to do is be sure the hinge for the plastic door in the damper is not snapped off- it is a common failure.

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1 minute ago, Hiroshi said:

There is a series of sensors in these machines that affect damper function... but, the first thing to do is be sure the hinge for the plastic door in the damper is not snapped off- it is a common failure.

the doors functionality is fine, when it operates, it does as it should, its just being commanded to shut, so what i need to do is find which sensor is causing the door to close, but i dont know where to start, Everything seems fine with the fridge with the exception of the damper door staying shut 

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The sensor in the fridge is behind a small oval with slots cut in it, they call it a "thermister." It is usually on the left hand wall of the fridge compartment, you can "pop" the slotted cover off to reveal the small white thermistor... They are a cheap part @ $12 bucks

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The rule for GE thermistors is that you want the updated, solid white plastic thermistor with a flat "nose." Part number: WR55X10025

Part number: WR55X10025

If the fridge thermistor in your machine has a rounded "nose" and black rubber where the wires meet the cylinder- instantly replace it.

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Also... when replacing thermistors you want to protect against moisture in your splices. I like to use crimp butt connectors. I fill butt connector with RTV silicone and stick twisted wires in butt connector and crimp. Tuck everything into cavity and snap cover back on. 

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the thermistor is located on the shelf railing on the left side right by the damper door, and is running right into the plug for the damper door, so id have to cut the wires and splice it in place?

3 minutes ago, 16345Ed said:

Also... when replacing thermistors you want to protect against moisture in your splices. I like to use crimp butt connectors. I fill butt connector with RTV silicone and stick twisted wires in butt connector and crimp. Tuck everything into cavity and snap cover back on. 

yes id be doing this if i replace the thermistor

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I do the same thing, but i use food grade silicone gel... it is way better. I noticed they changed the newer service manuals to suggest gel instead of caulk as well 

 

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17 minutes ago, Hiroshi said:

I do the same thing, but i use food grade silicone gel... it is way better. I noticed they changed the newer service manuals to suggest gel instead of caulk as well 

 

Thanks for this.., I'll switch over to gel. 

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i replaced the thermistor, but theres no change in how the damper door is acting, wish i knew more, but at this point im at a loss...... 

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Some of these older units had problems with the fresh food door not shutting the light bulb off when the door shut and the light would be on with the door shut.There is adjustment on the bottom of the fresh food door.May want just to take bulbs out and see if that is the problem .

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nothing to do with the bulb, i replaced the thermistor that had the black end where the wires meet........ and watched the damper door shut after 45 seconds or so after i plugged the fridge back in...... 

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Liner Protection Mode

The liner protection mode will activate if either of the doors have been open for 3 minutes. This mode will start the fans and close the damper. Have you read a service manual how this refrigerator works?  Just putting this out there.  Normally you would change all those thermistors if they have the black ends     good luck.

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thats the big problem, i have no service manuals to know what to run off of................ 

when testing i never left the door open for much, never over close to 3 minutes, i could unplug the fridge and make a video to show what i mean, this is the 1st refrigerator ive ever touched without any assistance, didnt know id have had to replace the other thermistors, if i did id have replaced it 

I plan on going to the local college for HVAC, I live in florida and the fact that Air conditioning and refrigerators will Always be needed, it seems like the best thing i could do for my life at this current point in time, as id never taken any kind of training to learn what i know.  ive gotten so good with the newer whirlpool washers that im ready to move forward into something ive never done before 

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Just try taking out the bulbs for one day in the fresh food section. You got nothing lose.

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i have the cover off of the damper door, its visibly closed and the bulb shuts off when the door is close to being fully sealed shut, somethings telling the damper door to open, i just dont know what

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Google this number 31-9071 and this manual should help you.Page 46 .Ps i had one  that i thought the light was shutting off,but when it was fully shut the light was on.  Usually you can fill the heat on the fresh food liner door. Still would take out light.

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