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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      0  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Sorry for the odd forum placement.  I'm some sort of legacy member from ApplianceGuru.com so I can't post the regular DIY forum and it seems not in the spirit of this new forum for me to post in the professional forums.  Side note: what happened to ApplianceGuru.com's forums?

Anyhoo, I have a GU1200XTLQ3 dishwasher that has gone astray.  The Sani-Rinse light just blinks.  Thermal fuse is good and door switches are good.  I followed the pinout tests for the panel and they _seemed_ to check out in that each button showed open and then closed when pressed.  However, I was getting constant continuity between pin 2 and 11 although that wasn't explicitly listed in the pinout so I can't say if that's normal or not.  I tried following the panel testing method described here and the pump did not turn on when power was restored so I'm thinking this points to the controller board.

Before I went and bought a board I thought I'd throw it out there to see if anyone thinks I'm wrong.

  Thanks all,

        Bryan

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  • bdam

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Posted

I don't think some of the older models have the remove power, disconnect keypad, restore power, close door, pump runs for 2 minutes diagnostics programmed into the board.

A fast blinking LED above a key is a usual indicator of a stuck/shorted keypad.

These boards hardly ever go bad, except for major melt down at main large connector sometimes from bad connections.

The most likely problem is a failed keypad/console assembly - Membrane keypads in all appliances and brands are a weak point.

Posted

One suggestion out there was to just leave it unplugged for several hours.  Just got home from work, flipped the breaker on, and it's rinsing as I type.  I'm sure that's not the end of it ... we'll see what happens.

Posted

Sorry, I should have first thanked you for your response.  I can't find a tech sheet for this ...  can you tell me if this model has a similar way to test that it's the board versus the keypad?  

Posted

Request a tech sheet in the Appliance service manual request.

I'm pretty sure 8283509 is the techsheet/info you will need.

Posted

Thanks again.  I would but as a legacy member I don't have access to post there.  I can access the files but not request new ones. Unfortunately it's not behind the access panel.  I'll see if I can find one out in the great tubes of information.

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