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LG LDS5540ST dishwasher heating element keeps burning out


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Posted


I am having troubles with my LG LDS5540ST dishwasher.  The internal heating element, 5301DD1001G, burned out (no continuity but also no visible signs of damage).  I've replaced it twice.  Each time within the first wash cycle it burns out (no continuity).  I've tested each unit prior to installation (and also before operation once installed) and both were good but almost immediately both burned out.  Again, there was no visible sign of damage to the heating elements-- just no continuity when I checked with a meter.

The water is on and (at least) initially the water is being heated.  Then the element burns out.  The dishwasher display the HE error code.


Additional information that may be helpful: About 9 months ago the entire dishwasher stopped working with a burning smell.  Upon investigation I found burned/melted connectors on the main assembly board.  It looked to me like a connector wire had become loose and caused arcing.  While charred and melted at specific connectors, the rest of the board itself appeared to be okay to my untrained eye.  I was not able to determine where/how to purchase replacement connectors for the wiring harness (just the complete $100 wire harness), so just replaced the melted connectors with new female spade connectors instead.  That solved the problem.  The dishwasher powered up and worked well for at about 8 months.  Then the heating element went out (and dishwasher displayed the HE code).

Any thoughts on where to go from here?

My thoughts:

 1.  Perhaps the main assembly board (EBR73739203) has gone bad (due to the previous damage over time?) and is burning out the heating element.
 2.  The wire harness (EAD61906701) is bad (maybe my spliced in connectors are causing some resistance but I'm not sure how that would cause the heating element to burn out -- and burn out within a few minutes).  I don't see anything broken (again to my untrained eye)

If the main assembly board and wire harness were not so expensive I'd just replace them and one more heating element, but that puts the cost around  $230-$290 (plus what I've already spent) and I'm not sure replacing both of those will solve the problem anyway.  Plus replacing the entire wiring harness looks like quite a time-consuming pain (I wish there were a source for just the connectors on the wire harness)

Cost is unfortunately a significant factor for me.

For reference I have included a couple pictures of the main assembly board in case it (or my previous repair work) may be an issue.  The first picture is how it looked prior to my repair 9 months ago and the other is a recent picture of what it looks like now (including the repair I made 9 months ago).

Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what should I do from here or what would be causing heating elements to keep burning out?

Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

ScrQvnWKvklS66ukSwNbHbVxH6xALVAfsx7IFiCM_7OPCb6p4kGmXhkzOicVKiVpAIokQU3GeoeX2jb8

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Have you checked the water level before the heater is activated. An empty or very low level will most certainly burn out the element. It's like draining a water heater without first powering down the elements, they overheat and burnout. 

Posted

Check voltage/amperage to the heater upon powering up unit. I vaguely remember a unit where the heater energized upon applying power to the dishwasher and staying on, burning out  the element - shorted relay on the main control board.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 2/26/2017 at 9:05 AM, vogeldp said:

Have you checked the water level before the heater is activated. An empty or very low level will most certainly burn out the element. It's like draining a water heater without first powering down the elements, they overheat and burnout. 

Vogeldp,

That's a good idea.  How would you recommend checking the water level?  The element on this unit is not exposed and access is from underneath the machine so I'm not sure how to take such a measurement.

Posted
22 hours ago, Chat_in_RI said:

Check voltage/amperage to the heater upon powering up unit. I vaguely remember a unit where the heater energized upon applying power to the dishwasher and staying on, burning out  the element - shorted relay on the main control board.

Thank you, Chat_In_RI that is a good suggestion.  If that is the case, would replacing the main control board be the likely solution?

 

Posted

It did in the case I was involved with,,,

  • 1 year later...
Posted

hi I am having the same issues with the HE burning out all the time, did you find the problem? and the water level you say is low, what would cause that? did we have to fill the dishwasher up before we run it the first time? i never had to before. PLease help. 

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Ran on same model, same condition. No heat HE error. Found open heat element but no damage visibly. Replaced element and got the call back next day- still not heat and HE error. Found new heater open. Wtf? Found this thread so went to board and loony what I found- blown cap and burned relay connectors. Mended connectors, replaced board and heat element. All good. 

E066B9B1-7752-462C-B040-5183A0A80672.jpeg

E12973EF-526F-4349-9149-2EB700908A22.jpeg

  • 2 months later...
Posted

IMG_20210721_145918(1).jpg.f8486fec99ca43d1171775fa18ac3ead.jpg

IMG_20210721_144718(1).jpg.be11c274ee485aae0c0a829c78739ff9.jpgHi everyone 👋

It's look like a recurrent problem on the LG LDS5540ST

Posted (edited)

The capacitor looks expanded to the sides but it's really just the plastic wrap that peeled off and formed a bubble. I've seen this a few times on boards with and without bad relay on this exact model. I own this model too, same thing, fat looking cap but works fine. It would expand upwards if it was blown. Poke it with a knife you'll see.

How about taking ohms reading of the element instead of continuity? Then amps as it goes through the cycles.

Edited by igloo

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