WM3431HS - dHE Error (cleaned trap, etc)

[moore1289]

1) Part numbers on original Main Board and replacement...identical? Yes, and re-installed old board, and no change.

2) Power outlet (on wall) tested okay...ground good? Will check this.

3) Combo unit has plenty of air? Not installed in an airtight closet with a door? Yes, its out in the open while testing.

[Pomology]

Did you ever figure out what the problem was and get it fixed? Very interesting thread. 

Randy

[tennis0720]

Did this ever get figured out? 

[Techonamission]

OH MY, this was a real cliff hanger until the end. Poor guy must have given up. I would have long before that, LOL. Here is a video of solving the DHE error code:

 

youtube.com/watch?v=4LywLAQSqCw

[Techonamission]

I Wanted to chime in here b/c I had a very similar call to this recently. We had the same error DHE, all thermostats and heater checked good but fan motor was lazy. So we replaced the fan. Same issue, so we replaced the main board, b/c those are the only 2 things in the fan circuit (board and fan). Same problem. I ended up checking continuity of the fan wires from the board. 1 of the wires was open even tho no visible breaks were apparent. I spliced in a new wire and the error went away and the machine worked normal.  I really should have checked for 12vdc initially from the main board before i replaced those parts. Guess im getting lazy.

[Joeuser01]

Having the exact same issues as OP on a similar/identical Kenmore branded unit #796.41002.610.   

Paid $99 for a sears tech to diagnose.. Tech was green & made a lengthy call to his superior for advice. The final diagnosis was "replace main board" and they quoted  $354.33 for the board + $322 labor.  I declined quote & ordered the part (#EBR79950243) direct from Sears Parts for $239 shipped (non-refundable).

Just like the OP, the new board did not fix the problem & sears was totally unapologetic about the failed diag & insisted I pay for another tech.  I am done with Sears.. 

Some good pointers in this thread & will chase this stuff down to see where I end up & will post updates.. Hoping its as simple as that fan sensor wire. or a sluggish fan in general... seems reasonable.   I do not want to scrap this unit for what should be a simple fix!

Thanks in advance for the advice in this thread!

[Joeuser01]

Side question for the gurus...

When I'm in test-mode 13, the fan should spin and heater should come on.. The display will flash between fan speed and duct temp.    Fan speed climbs (within about 8 seconds) & the display reports, a max value of 255, and the temp value is constant at 16 (assuming C° which is about 60F°,  reasonably close to room temp in our house).

Is 255 a good max value for the fan?  seems like a value is being detected, but perhaps not high enough, or not quickly enough for the board to trigger the heating element?

 

[Joeuser01]

TLDR:

Found a broken (blue) wire from control board to thermostat in the main loom. Using a Toner, I found the break location was at the metal wire retention bracket at the rear of the fan housing.  Solved with 7 cents worth of solder, heat shrink & zip-ties.

Long Version:

We had a 2nd tech from a new vendor out ($84), who said each of the individual components was testing out properly, but the blue wire that goes from the control board to the thermostat did not have continuity to the source.   That tech  left saying he'd need to study the factory wiring diagram & get back to us.. 2 more weeks passed & we placed a number of calls to the vendor.  No progress with them & not even a return call.   My opinion of appliance repair companies in this region is pretty low at this point.

Frustrated, I decided to pick up where the tech left off, at that blue wire connected to the thermostat.   I used a toner (more commonly used in telco for tracing wires) & connected it to the blue wire in question..  The toner wand had strong signal along the wire right up to the point where a steel bracket braces the wire harness at the rear of the fan housing.  Beyond that point there was no more tone..  So, I  pulled apart the loom to that point and found a clear break in the wire.   Three other wires also had damaged jackets.. Too much strain (probably from the spin cycle) at that bracket location! 

After soldering & heat shrinking the broken wire, I used electrical tape & zip-ties to re-dress the loom & secure it without the tight bend that was happening at the metal clip.

Solved.

This is the kind of "toner" I used, not exactly, mine is old af, but same general idea & it worked great for finding the exact location of the wire break in this situation!

https://www.amazon.com/Generator-Inductive-Amplifier-Adjustable-Collation/dp/B09QGLNLNJ

 

[Bryan1980]

I created this account just to post this as I just went through a very similar frustrating experience trying to repair my LG wm3998hba all in one washer dryer combo. 

Kept getting the DHE error code when it would switch to drying. Tried changing the thermistor, the heating element, the motor, cleaned out the dryer part, checked all loose wires.

Even changed the water heating element. (Turns out it was also broken but not the cause)

It ended up being the gasket around the plastic housing that the dryer blower motor sits in.

If you take out the blower motor on top, pull the fan off the motor, you'll see where the rod sticks through the plastic casing. That hole in the plastic has a rubber gasket. 

It looks like it got too much heat and warped and created enough friction against the rod that the motor isn't strong enough to turn it anymore.

 

Took the gasket out, put a bead of grease around it reinstalled it and worked like a charm.

No more resistance. 

I'm sure that gasket is needed so when the machine vibrates it doesn't hit against the plastic and break off small bits of it. So I will replace it but for now I need clean towels.

 

Hope this helps someone out there.