Danby fridge cooling problem due to ice build up

[veda1]

Hello everyone, 

I have a small Danby refrigerator (DFF8200W). The freezer on top worked fine but the dial to adjust the temperature in the fridge was jammed and the temperature in the fridge rose way up. I removed the fridge inside middle panel and discovered that ice built up at the top of the middle conduct. Water seems to drip from the freezer. 

When I let the ice melt and put it back, the dial can rotate and the fridge temperature goes down below freezing. Ice builds up again in the conduct within a few days which steadily increase the temperature in the fridge again. 

Do you have any idea why ice builds up in the conduct? Is there anything I can do to fix this?

Thanks

 

[Koi Guy]

Sounds like the drain trough for the defrost water to drain has clogged, and the water spills forward...

Remove the rear cover in the feezer to expose the drain trough. You'll see the drain hole near the center of the trough. Either passively let to thaw out or you can use hot water. Don't use a blow dryer, heat gun or a screwdriver to remove ice. 

Now here's a trick of the trade- get an aluminum fence tie and strap it around the heater and place the loose end in the drain hole. Or you can buy the Whirlpool or GE versions of their 'defrost heater probe'. But you can see the point....get heat into the hole when the unit is in defrost mode.... 

Edited May 22, 2017 by Koi Guy

[veda1]

Great! Looks like your are right. I removed the rear cover of the freezer and noticed ice in the hole of the bottom pan. I unplugged the fridge for the night to make sure it melts completely.

This is an old fridge and it's the first time it happens. Wonder if it will happen again. The fence/probe suggestion is a good idea but I am not sure how to set this up. The drain hole is on on left side of the pan and I don't know where is the heater.

Photos are available here: https://goo.gl/photos/rxMbjFScgYpLvsiN9

Many thanks

[16345Ed]

Looks to me like defrost heater broke or became unconnected. 

See thing attached to white wire on left?

i think the other end should be attached to that white wire on right that isn't attached to anything. 

Edited May 22, 2017 by 16345Ed

[veda1]

Thanks again for your comment. I reexamined the parts this morning after letting the fridge unplugged all night and discovered a few things.

The heater is attached to the very bottom of the serpentin, just above the drain tray. The white wires on each side are connected to it.

There is a removable elbow in the upper left corner of the fridge connecting the drain above to the water conduct going to the collecting pan below, on top of the compressor. 

When I pour hot water in the drain hole in the freezer, it only freely flows through the middle conduct leading to the fridge temperature control. No water at all goes through the drain conduct. I don't know how water can leaked in the middle conduct as the entry is on the right of the serpentin, above the drain tray. 

Looks like the drain line between the freezer and the fridge is clogged or perforated and water make its way to the middle conduct. It doesn't seem possible to disassembled all the parts to examine the issue.

I added a few more photos here: https://goo.gl/photos/rxMbjFScgYpLvsiN9

[Hiroshi]

The most gentle method is to use a turkey baster and try to force water through the drain to purge it clear... there may be some physical goop at the other end of the drain, you can also try to fish a long zip-tie or other softer plastic type device down the drain.... the small device in the white plastic clip is a thermal fuse... if that does not have continuity- you will have no heater element function.

[veda1]

Both, the heater and the thermal fuse passed the continuity test.

I guess the real problem is the drain. I realized that the conduct is made of styrofoam. It doesn't seem to run straight up. I tried to fish something through but couldn't go anywhere. I tried to blow high pressure air with a compressor from below with no change. I can't figure out how the conduct could have clogged up so much.

[Hiroshi]

styrofoam will swell when it stays wet- it may have swollen closed. the whirlpool 819043 kit comes with an aluminum tube specifically for installation in swollen styrofaom...

[veda1]

The heater is covered by a folded metal plate and is somewhat placed in the drain pan below the freezer floor. Access is difficult. Not sure if I can wrapped the small plate around. I could possibly wrap a metal wire around.

Is the tube meant to be forcefully poked through the styrofoam (if the line runs straight down)? I couldn't do it from above. Could I simply drill a hole from below?

Thanks

[Hiroshi]

First order of business is to get a clear drain.

If the heater is a glass tube with a wire in it, (cant tell from the picture) the wire or flat heater probe will not work.

The path from the drip tray to the tube must overlap correctly and keep water from being diverted into the insulation and between the plastic walls of the compartments... if this happens, eventually, you will have a corroded cabinet and mold issue.

You may be able to "drill" a hole in the styrofoam from below, but it appears the white plastic fitting won't let you insert the aluminum tube from below...

Unfortunately, units like this are considered rather disposable by the folks that make them, so repair is often difficult.

Efficient, eh??

[veda1]

Here is an interesting turn of event.  I restarted the fridge this morning after my diagnosis to take care of some food. Later in the afternoon after reading Hiroshi's reply I made up my mind to force open a hole. I started with a fine screwdriver and to my great surprise the hole was open, completely unobstructed. Was it possible that the hole was still blocked with ice after 12 hours disconnected and even after I poured several cups of hot water in the drain pan? This is very mysterious. Anyway, water drains normally at the moment. I'll let the fridge run for a while and see how it goes.

The heater seems to be a glass tube with a wire. It's position makes adding a defrost heater probe very difficult. Hopefully, it wont be needed. Otherwise, the planned obsolescence will likely come into effect...

I would like to thank very much everyone for their kind and valuable inputs...

[Hiroshi]

Oh yeah, 12 hours is not long enough to defrost a machine in most cases, they are pretty well insulated 

Firing a steamer down the tube if it freezes again is a quick solution...