plz help! ELECTROLUX freezer warm E42BS75EP

[28strepair]

I HAVE AN ELECTROLUX MODEL E42BS75EP 42" BUILT IN, DUAL EVAPORATOR UNIT THATS DRIVING ME CRAZY !!!

PROBLEM :RUNS FOR A BIT THEN STOPS AND WONT TURN BACK ON  

WHEN I CYCLE THE POWER  THE UNIT THE FRIDGE RUNS FOR ABOUT AN HOUR.   CONDENSER FAN NOT RUNNING   THEN STOPS  

ON THE DIGITAL DISPLAY  THE FRIDGE GETS TO SET TEMP   FREEZER GETS TO ABOUT 17 AND IS SET TO 5 

AS TIME PASSES THE FREEZER TEMP WILL RISE PAST 32 BUT THE FRIDGE DISPLAY TEMP MAINTAINS 37 BUT IN REALITY IT HAS RISEN AS WELL 

AT TIMES THE UNIT WILL RUN WITH THE CONDENSER FAN ALSO RUNNING AT WHICH POINT IT WILL TAKE IT TEMPS DOWN TO SET TEMPS OF 5 AND 37DEGREES

WHEN THE CONDENSER FAN IS NOT RUNNING THERE IS NO POWER TO THE FAN WHEN IT IS RUNNING THERE IS 8 VOLTS 

I CAN HEAR BOTH OF THE EVAPORATOR FANS RUNNING WHEN I OPEN THE DOOR AND HOLD THE LIGHT SWITCH  

I REPLACED THE CONTROL CIRCUT BOARD,  NOTHING CHANGED SAME PROBLEM

I STILL THINK  ITS A CONTROL BOARD , SHOULD I ORDER ANOTHER ONE ?

WHY DOES THE CONDENSER FAN HAVE 3 WIRES , COULD THE FAN BE BAD ? EVEN THOUGH IT RUNS AT TIMES AND SOMETIMES IT MAKES A FEW ROTATIONS THEN STOPS  

AT MY WITTS END AND PARTS ARE CRAZY EXPENSIVE   PLEASE HELP!! WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM ?

HAD A REPAIRMAN TAKE A LOOK AND HE WASN'T SURE JUST BASICALLY TOLD ME I SHOULD CHANGE THE CONDENSER FAN AT A COST OF ALMOST $600 

PLZ GIVE ME YOUR THOUGHTS    THANK YOU!!

 

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[Scottthewolf]

Yes, that is one expensive condenser fan motor assembly.  In all honesty, everything in this unit is electronically controlled.  Sometimes a bad fan motor can cause an electronic control board to go bad.  I would replace the electronic control board and the condenser fan motor together.

[28strepair]

ok sounds like a good plan thank you!!   but I was just curious would a thermistor or defrost thermostat be causing this sort of problem also ?

[Scottthewolf]

Very unlikely.

 

[Rhubarb Tau]

Yikes, just checked our retail price on the condensor fan motor ass'y - $410 and change.

@Scottthewolf, agreed, I wouldn't expect any sensor input to interrupt power to the condensor fan. Still, I've been surprised before.

@28strepair If you have some reason to suspect the thermistor, test it. At least you could rule it out. Not that the tech sheet lists thermistor values.

Your original post was kind of vague in re: what is running when. I'd say, if you ever catch the compressor running and the condensor fan not, like Scott said, replace both the main PCB and the condensor fan motor.

[howdryiam]

At normal ambient temperatures the condenser fan will cycle  on/off in concert with the compressor. This unit does have an ambient temperature sensor. So in unusually cold ambient conditions the control will either choose to not energize the condenser fan or pulse the condenser fan.  Pin 12 (red) of CN2 connector of the terminal block panel you see when you take the control board cover is the external sensor. At 77 degrees it should read 5k ohms (red to common dc ground - grey)

If I understand the symptoms correctly, I agree that the load of interest (and the more common failure point) is the condenser fan motor and/or the control board.

Please make sure all of your wire harness connections are secure -  with the unit unplugged disconnect and examine them and then reconnect at the board and at the condenser fan. look for broken, crushed or damaged wires. Remove the control board cover and look for the CN2 connector on the terminal block panel - should be upper left. This connector includes DC supply and feeedback for the condenser fan. Look for Pins 1, 2 and 3 - red, light blue and grey.  Pins 2 to 3 or Light Blue to Grey should be 9 -10 VDC and Pins 1 - 3 Red to Grey = 2 vdc. The 2VD at this location is a feedback signal from the fan. (That's why 3 wires to the fan)