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  • Upcoming Events

    • 21 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
      2  
      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 21 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

Always I seem to expect more of a problem than it actually is, while not in my comfort zone diagnosing a non working gas oven, family's hoping to be ready for Thanksgiving day. Feeling like they depend on me now. No amp draw from ignitor, wires both wires white shouldn't make any difference right ?  no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal, replaced the crimp on quick connector, still no amp draw, tested continuity completely out of the circuit, still nothing. However 120 vac at the ignitor. Diagnosing one problem at at time, this sounds correct to me, also how to diagnosis temp thermostat in oven just in case. thks all.

Expect the Unexpected

Posted
27 minutes ago, kokomo said:

no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal,

Replace Ignitor then you'll likely be good to go.

turn off gas and power first!

  • Like 1
Posted

bad ignitor

Posted

Couldn't verify but at first I had some continuity.

 I've read testing the temp prob is basic ohm it out, thk's all.

Posted
8 hours ago, kokomo said:

Couldn't verify but at first I had some continuity.

 I've read testing the temp prob is basic ohm it out, thk's all.

What had continuity? Just because an Ignitor has continuity does not prove it's working. If it doesn't you know it is bad, but it can still be bad with continuity  

You have to test amp draw on live circuit. 

 

Posted

Temperature sensors have varying resistance based on temperature.  You need to know what resistances are expected at what temperature to determine if sensor is good or not. 

Posted

An ohms reading on the igniter would also tell you if its bad. If you get no amp draw but have voltage the the igniter needs to be replaced. 

Posted

All is well now, I've just never experienced an ohm test good on an element or ignitor. Even thou I live amp tested at the begginng,  amp draw is the final word test. Thks.

Posted

What did you do to fix it?

Posted

i'm just learning, it was a simple ignite r, i tend to make things more than they actually are. I had ohms before I pulled it.

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