Viking range ignitor: front lights only if back is turned on

[borhani]

Viking VGRC365-6BDSS. Six burners (middle two are covered by a griddle).

1. Turn on left-front (LF) burner: gas flow, no spark. (Used to work fine for past 10 years; this is a new problem)
2. Turn on left-rear (LR) burner: gas flow, spark, flame. OK
3. Turn on LF, and then also turn on LR burners: BOTH light. Can then turn off LR, and LF stays lit.

How to troubleshoot this? Or is it as simple as bad ignitor module (P/N?)?

Other 4 burners are working fine.

Thanks!

David

[AccApp]

Not a bad ignitor module but a faulty switch at the burner valve. When one burner switch calls for spark they all spark. That's why your workaround is working.

Edited December 30, 2017 by AccApp

[darren412]

Yeah   listen to AccApp  . He is a very good tech on this site.   His opinion is sound with the available symptoms you have given him on your oven issue. The switch part # is PA020015.   Some sites will say its NLA   But there are some available out there still.   Marcone.com  will have them.  Not sure if this was the case with your issue but if someone has spilled water or any fluids on the bad burner switch that is not working correctly , its possible why that switch is malfunctioning. Sometimes people will clean their stoves and get something into the switch and then will have to wait till it dries out for it to work properly again. This may not be your case but be aware that it can happen.  Make sure you unplug unit as always and  If you want to verify its the switch, just swap one out from one of the other burner switches that are working properly on the right,  side that is of the same. Pull the switch off evenly on both sides of the switch and straight off the valve. The replacement switch will go back on the same way and snap into place.  Then try the left front burner again to see if that fixes your issue at hand. If the issue is fixed, I would replace both left and right side switches while your in there. It will run you maybe a little over $100 for the switches and that is a small investment for a stove worth 4 to 7  thousand dollars.  Make sure you save the other switches that are ok for now for spares just in case.     Good luck 

[borhani]

Thanks, AccApp & darren412. Switch ordered from www.VirginiaServiceSupply.com, $22.

David

[darren412]

it looks like that company    www.virginiaservicesupply.com  sells after market parts.   The one they are selling looks like it will work in other types of stoves.    It should work from the looks of it.  Lets hope it will last.   The OEM switches only have two diagonal holes opposite each other and those have  rivets in them that hold the switch together.  like I mentioned it looks as though that switch they are selling you will work.  Take care and have a happy new year.

[borhani]

I have received my part, but I could use some experienced help in how to install this baby!

I took out the burners & the sheet-metal support, which let me see the switch from behind, but I don't see any way to disassemble the switch/axle/gas valve assembly.

So, I took off all control knobs, and unscrewed the 4 screws holding on the front panel on — but the panel doesn't come off. It seems like there is something else holding it on, and it seems like it is hooked on underneath (just above the pull-out droppings tray).

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

David

 

[AccApp]

There are more screws holding the front panel to the manifold. They are hidden behind the knobs.

[AccApp]

The switch will just pop off the valve once you have the front panel off.

[AccApp]

Make sure you disconnected electricity to the range.

[borhani]

OK. So, I need to undo the two screws/knob x 7 knobs, then the whole panel comes off. And no electricity = no nasty surprises!

Thanks

 

[AccApp]

Not every screw has to be removed, you’ll see

[borhani]

All fixed! Thanks for all your help. Case of beer donated to the beer fund!

The "trick" screws are the bottom ones on the two knobs one-in from each side.

By the way, the replacement switch looks identical to the broken OEM switch. The only difference I could see is the direction of the two rivets holding the thing together.

David

[AccApp]

Cheers!