Maytag DE410 dryer troubleshooting

[sonoman]

I have an ancient Maytag DE410 electric dryer that won't start.  I have repaired it through the years but this has me stumped.  I push "start" and nothing happens.  

- There is power

- The "start" button works properly per my DMM

- The "cycle" button works properly with 0 ohms when pushed, open when released

- The three thermal fuses show 0 ohms

- The timer switch appears to work properly.  I get opens and closes on the three switches noted in the schematic when I turn the  dial through the cycles.  I can hear the motor and it appears to be turning

- With power, the heater coil turns on when not in "fluff" cycle

- The door switch works properly

That got me to the motor and the centrifugal switch.  How do I test this?  It has the lever that activates the switch...is that lever normally down or normally up?  What is the proper position and how do I test the switch paths?

I have not jumped the motor directly with a patch cord.  Which wires/connectors do I jump?   I prefer to avoid this step if possible, but I may have to check it 

Any suggestions for troubleshooting this dryer?  I am stumped

 

thanks

[evaappliance]

- With power, the heater coil turns on when not in "fluff" cycle

it does this with the dryer moter not running ?  If it does you have a bad centrifugal switch.

[LearningTech]

Yes sound like bad switch.  Its normally out ( toward the shaft) and it sucks in (towards windings) when spinning. When safly disconnected from power it can be pushed in and out with  a finger etc.  uslually the outer 2 terminals on the motor block that it conects and disconnects. 

[sonoman]

Hi guys, thanks for your replies.  To clarify, evaapliance, the heating coil came on for all cycles BUT the fluff cycle (ie when NOT in fluff cycle) and it did get hot when the motor was not running (I was surprised by this too...so I kept it in Fluff Cycle afterward).  Sounds like this was not supposed to happen!

As I found it, the centrifugal switch lever from the motor was depressing the "button" on the switch.  When the power was disconnected, I could toggle the grey motor lever back and forth, which depressed or released the micro-switch "button".  I assume from your reply the micro-switch is supposed to be depressed ("button in" as the motor lever pushes out from the shaft to depress the swtich) when the motor is stopped.  There are "run" and "start" paths shown on the schematic; does the lever (and switch) change positions as soon as the shaft starts spinning or does it only trip during a failure scenario?  

Going from memory, I believe there were 5-6 connectors on the switch and the wires connected were red, blue, a dual with two yellows from the door switch and start button, grey, and black.  I believe there were 3 wires to the motor itself, and they had grey motor paint on them so I don't recall the colors.  How do I test the switch?  Is the "button depressed" the "start" condition and "button out" the "run" condition?  

Will a bad centrifugal switch shut down the entire dryer, so it plays dead?   If so, along with evaapliance's comment on the heater coil, that points to the switch. 

Should I jump directly to the motor to test it or just order a centrifugal switch?  I cannot find that swtich...every site says it is discontinued.  I see some switches on Ebay but it is difficult to tell if is the correct part.  The number on the switch says 102PB2...is there a cross-reference?  The manual pages say 3-3877 or 3-3879 or 3-6207.  Some websites suggest (but not clear) that the entire motor needs to get replaced, which is a very expensive way to get a switch and seems unnecessary.  It is frustrating to have an old, but serviceable appliance and no way to get simple parts for it

I also see "overload protection" on the schematic.  Where is this and how do I test it?

 

 

[evaappliance]

unless you can find a used one , you will have to get the whole motor ,  the new motor has changed in appearance and you will have to modify a couple of wire ends , so try to find one that someone has had in stock for a long time , still in a maytag box and it will be exact .  and better !