GE Fridge issue, while freezer is fine

[Tim M]

8 minutes ago, jigsaw said:

Should I open 429 on the fridge side, to see 426 and see if it's having issues?

Thank you for the youtube link, totally understand which one you are talking about.

Fixed the YouTube link to the correct one.

You don't feel air coming out through there.  You could remove the cover 429, or even the damper itself 426.  If the damper is open or removed, and the fan inside the freezer is going, and you don't feel cold air flowing something is plugged with ice.  If the damper is broken that's obvious.  If the damper just isn't opening for some reason, it's been too long since I did this for me to know the answer off the top of my head.  Do you have enough to go on for tonight?

[Tim M]

4 minutes ago, jigsaw said:

 

I don't feel any air coming out from this side though:

 

That's the spot.

Freezer door is CLOSED, fan in freezer is running, the back wall is in the freezer so the air will actually blow to the right place, then you know where the problem is.

If you have the freezer all taken apart, you could put something else in there to test it to see if both the damper and passageway are open, hairdryer, compressor to blow air.  I don't know if a flashlight or flexible tube would go through, because I don't remember what it looks like in there.

[jigsaw]

Thanks, I'll open the whole 429 tomorrow morning - I am guessing it has two 1/4" screws holding it together? Or see if I can remove 426 alone.

I truly appreciate your help @Tim M.

[jigsaw]

1 minute ago, Tim M said:

That's the spot.

Freezer door is CLOSED, fan in freezer is running, the back wall is in the freezer so the air will actually blow to the right place, then you know where the problem is.

If you have the freezer all taken apart, you could put something else in there to test it to see if both the damper and passageway are open, hairdryer, compressor to blow air.  I don't know if a flashlight or flexible tube would go through, because I don't remember what it looks like in there.

I'll try to use hair dryer or maybe a coffee or a soda straw, to see how far it can go inside it. Maybe that's plugged(keeping my fingers crossed) or FF side thermistor is bad ?

[jigsaw]

Ok, this morning throughout the freezer temperature is in minus and fridge is showing 47ish and I can feel air flowing from the damper assembly into fridge side.

I'll continue to monitor for another 24hrs. If evaporator cover is missing can it impact temperature within the fridge side?

Also, can a bad thermistor impact fridge behavior? Thanks all

[jigsaw]

Freezer side is -5 to -12.

[Quick]

6 hours ago, jigsaw said:

If evaporator cover is missing can it impact temperature within the fridge side?

Yes it can.

 

6 hours ago, jigsaw said:

Also, can a bad thermistor impact fridge behavior?

Yes it can. 

Here's a part number for you. Chances are high this will fix you up. Part # WR09X10050

[jigsaw]

24 minutes ago, Quick said:

 

Here's a part number for you. Chances are high this will fix you up. Part # WR09X10050

Thanks again for your help.

Should I replace all 3 thermistors or just the one on Fridge(beer) side? Also, is there a workaround/way I can use to test if thermistor is the culprit in this current situation?

[jigsaw]

31 minutes ago, Quick said:

 Part # WR09X10050

So do you think it's a damper assembly and not thermistor( WR55X10025)?

[Quick]

2 minutes ago, jigsaw said:

Should I replace all 3 thermistors or just the one on Fridge(beer) side? Also, is there a workaround/way I can use to test if thermistor is the culprit in this current situation?

I don't know of a work around way. The thermistor in question should read aprox 24.48 K olms in ice ice ice cold water. You will need to let it sit in the ice ice ice cold water for at least 5 minutes anyhow. Your going to need a meter that can read it.

Replace all three? Nah. Not for now.

2 minutes ago, jigsaw said:

So do you think it's a damper assembly and not thermistor( WR55X10025)?

Buddy I have no way of knowing from here in East Texas. 

I was just trying to cover you best I could.

If you can get just the thermistor try it. That don't work replace damper. That don't work replace the board. That don't work Sears has some good sales on. 

[jigsaw]

@Quick makes sense and I appreciate your help.

[Tim M]

7 hours ago, jigsaw said:

 

 If evaporator cover is missing can it impact temperature within the fridge side?

 

Definitely need the cover on for air to circulate properly.

Jigsaw and Quick, why are we testing/replacing thermistors if the damper door is open and air is blowing through it?  Am I missing something here?

[Quick]

5 minutes ago, Tim M said:

igsaw and Quick, why are we testing/replacing thermistors if the damper door is open and air is blowing through it?  Am I missing something here?

He's reporting sub zero temps in the freezer.

[jigsaw]

Thank you @Tim M

Air is coming out of the damper, so definitely I can feel it. No idea how much pressure should be there? I plan to leave it as-is tonight and test the temp again tomorrow morning to see if I notice any improvements.

Thermistors, I didn't get desired 16.3K ohms reading yesterday when I left them in an ice cup for 5-10 mins. No idea, if they are bad or my approach to test them wasn't correct.

[Tim M]

1 hour ago, jigsaw said:

 

Air is coming out of the damper, so definitely I can feel it. No idea how much pressure should be there? I plan to leave it as-is tonight and test the temp again tomorrow morning to see if I notice any improvements.

 

OK but make sure rear wall in freezer is fully assembled for proper air circulation.  Bottom port directly below the one you are working on should be unobstructed as well.  Both ports need to be open to get the air to circulate.

As for the thermistors, Quick will have to advise not me.  Been too long since I have done this stuff.

Good luck.

[jigsaw]

Thanks again @Tim M

I have assembled everything back, including ice maker, bottom drawer and evaporator coils cover. Just curious, what's the bottom port you are talking about?

[Tim M]

11 minutes ago, jigsaw said:

Just curious, what's the bottom port you are talking about?

Somewhere in there there has to be a way for the air to get back around to circulate through.  Not sure where it is on your fridge.  Usually they are at the bottom directly in line with the top port, back from the fridge into the freezer.  Otherwise with the door closed it couldn't blow air into a sealed space.  Click to enlarge image to see full air current path and get an indication of where the return port is.

Image is from 1:23 in this video:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fs40J6Cthaw

Ever notice how the air seems to blow a little harder/faster in your car (when the windows are closed) when you set in on recirculate?  That's because it doesn't have to force it out all the cracks.  If your car was sealed as tightly as a fridge, the air couldn't blow at all unless it recirculated, because there would be no where to force it to.  Also you'd also be dead.  Same here: needs a place for the air to go to, so either the door has to be open, or it needs a hole to recirculate it.

[jigsaw]

I hope you don't know telepathy? Because I just finished watching the same video and ensured that both ports on fridge side are clear. Freezer is fully assembled, but almost empty, so not super concerned about it.

[jigsaw]

This morning, using IR I checked fridge temperature and it's between 42-45 F and freezer was showing in minus or close to 0. I have ordered 2 thermistors and will start with FF side replacement and see what happens. Thank you again

[Tim M]

It should take 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize when you make any adjustments to your fridge or restart it.

Once the temp has stabilized.  You can adjust your temperature settings, if needed and wait another 24 hours.  I am not sure thermistors are needed.

[jigsaw]

I'll monitor the temperature for another 24 hrs and won't change anything, unless needed and keep them as a spare :)

Thanks again @Tim M

[darren412]

1) First make sure the freezer door is closed when your checking that air flow. You will feel nothing if the freezer door is open  at the same time your checking for air flow.   2)  that picture of the evaporator with no frost on top says it all. For a frost pattern like that to last 2 days shows you have a big issue with the refrigerant supply at this point.  Either a leak or restriction.  There is though enough of that evaporator frosted for you to have some type of cooling going on with the fresh food section.   Maybe not enough to keep cream and milk fresh enough , as long as It should though. 

[jigsaw]

Thank you @darren412.

1-Yes, have always checked with freezer door closed and can feel air coming out of it, while evaporator fan is running.

2-Leak, I can't fix, but is there a fix for restriction, which can be done though a DIY?

Will definitely keep an eye on temperatures and also keeping an open mind for a new fridge too.

[darren412]

That type of fix is not for a DIYer project,  whether its a leak or a restriction.   It's  expensive when you have it done   " PROPERLY "  and there is no guarantee it wont leak again in six months.  Your money is better spent towards a new fridge in my opinion.  but good luck in whatever you do.

[jigsaw]

Right, so will buy a fridge to be a on the safe side and continue to monitor the existing one.