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GE PDW9280 Profile Dishwasher fills with water then resets


CinBrandon

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I have a GE PDW9280 Profile Dishwasher.
When I press "start" if seems to fill with water. I can hear and feel the water flowing.

Then all the lights will go out briefly, come back on and unit seams to be in "reset" mode. It pumps the water out, and stops.

Any suggestions on where/how to start in diagnosing?
Thanks

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Update: At times it runs full cycle fine. At other times it behaves as described above. and it may do this 5 times (after someone starts it each time), then all of a sudden, it will work normal for a cycle.

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Could be detecting a leak could be detecting short in motor when it starts/tries to wash. Hard to say without some hands on diagnosis at a time when it is actuallly in failure

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On 11/15/2018 at 11:00 AM, CinBrandon said:

Update: At times it runs full cycle fine. At other times it behaves as described above. and it may do this 5 times (after someone starts it each time), then all of a sudden, it will work normal for a cycle.

Run a diagnostic program to see what can be pulled up for any error codes that the control may have stored.   Start there.     There Should be a tech /schematic sheet behind the lower kick plate at the bottom of the front .   Look down by the frames lower left and right front corners. Sounds like a communication issue with the interface .  See if an error code comes up relating to a communication issue between the interface and main control

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You may have a bad or blocked up turbidity sensor part number WD21X10118 it is listed as NLA at Sears.

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14 minutes ago, coolhandluke said:

You may have a bad or blocked up turbidity sensor part number WD21X10118 it is listed as NLA at Sears.

Would the diagnostics indicate this? I'm hoping to dig into this sometime this week.

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I put it in Technician mode. (holding down arrow and "heat" button for 3 seconds) According to the paper work and the service manual, this enables you to cycles thru the various functions. I did that, they all seem to activate.

It does not have diagnostic/fault indicator lights.
 

Today when it stopped after opening the water valve, it had water in the bottom. not higher then the flood sensor though. Then on one of my test, it ran a full cycle. go figure.

Tomorrow I will try the "Factory test more" and also check to make sure inlet cover, filter screen, etc are not clogged. Any insight on how to remove these, the flood sensor cover, and spray arm are appreciated.

thanks

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I put it in Technician mode. (holding down arrow and "heat" button for 3 seconds) According to the paper work and the service manual, this enables you to cycles thru the various functions. I did that, they all seem to activate.

It does not have diagnostic/fault indicator lights.
 

Today when it stopped after opening the water valve, it had water in the bottom. not higher then the flood sensor though. Then on one of my test, it ran a full cycle. go figure.

Tomorrow I will try the "Factory test mode" and also check to make sure inlet cover, filter screen, etc are not clogged. Any insight on how to remove these, the flood sensor cover, and spray arm are appreciated.

thanks

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I've taken the lower spray arm and all other arms, the fine filter, and coarse filter, everything looks fine. Also remove the cover to the float switch, everything seems fine there.

It fills with water, then lights on panel go out briefly, as if resetting. You then have to restart it. Do this 5-8 times, then a cycle will run.

Any suggestions are welcome.

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well if no errors at this point  check for loose connections and  antying like that,  check membrane for stuck button, and then lilkly needs control

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  • 1 year later...

I have 1 doing it to, it is random to

3 times it stops 46 sec. Into fill, wash cycle is at approx 58 sec. So it is not any components in or after wash cycle.

Then i will run it again and it works fine.

It is possibly door switch but I am really thanking the ccu.

 

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Most common problem are the door switches on this model. I bet one is barley making contact. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Any results? I have a very similar problem, same model.  They called me that dishes on top don't get cleaned.  The sump hose going into top arm has fallen apart I found. I changed the sump, test run the wash pump, water reaches top, so I left. I get a callback that there is water in the bottom, no drain. I clear the water with a shop vac, even from the drain end just in case anything is stuck in there. Test the drain pump in service mode, it drain. I left. Another callback, same thing, water in bottom nothing happens after that. I ran service mode again, both pumps, heater, detergent cup and water valve all work individually. So I think interlock switch. It tests open circuit when door open, but as I try to pull off the connector to get a proper space for the meter leads,the switch falls apart as if made of chocolate. However thinking back, the cycle stopped before when i opened the door and beeped every 15 seconds when left open during cycle. So the door switch should've been fine. I also see that the fan motor inside the door is just loose and the shaft completely disconnected from fan. I think I read in the manual that either the door switch or the fan (fan on some models it said) may be the cause. Now I'm waiting for a replacement fan and door switch so I can continue, but what do I check next? It sounds like a board problem, not advancing to wash motor after it fills. But didn't it work before they called me about a dry top shelf? So I'm thinking it may be an intermittent problem just like you are describing.

Also the manual says if the turbidity sensor is open or short, cycle just keeps going the full length. This sensor is there to just shorten the cycle if the water is cleaner, to save on water. It shouldn't prevent the cycle from continuing, at least that's how I understand it.

Edited by igloo
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take the harness off the main control.  check the pin connector,  sounds like a loose connection there.  boards have been known to get a bit hot and I have found those connection bad at the board.  could explain why it is acting like its starting the cycle over

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21 minutes ago, igloo said:

So I think interlock switch. It tests open circuit when door open, but as I try to pull off the connector to get a proper space for the meter leads,the switch falls apart as if made of chocolate.

Like I said.  These micro switches just go bad.  It will just stop mid cycle and have you think you have a bad control.  I have actually opened up the control panel.  Closed the inner door closed and ran the dishwasher.  Wiggle the plunger and the unit will turn in and off.  The switch may test hood.  But it will barley make a connection.   

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OK, will check door switch with the door open and connections on board when the replacement parts get here. Thanks for the tip guys.

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  • 3 years later...

I have the same issues as the original poster.  A repairman said it was the turbidity sensor but he barely seemed like he knew what he was doing. From research it looks like the tiny sensor in these units also has a thermistor in it, which maybe could explain why it stops if it's tripping a thermal warning.  However, the unit does the same without the sensor plugged in, so hard to say.

I did run it in service mode to check the heating element to see if it was overheating.

It's not the door sensor either, it passed the wiggle tests.

Just wondering if anyone ever got this fixed, as the turbidity/thermistor is no longer source able.

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