Admiral AED4475TQ1 Electric Dryer troubleshooting help

[dudi]

Hi! thanks in advance for reading this post and trying to lend a hand.

So here is what happened so far:

My dryer was working fine until one day that it stopped mid-cycle.

Did a little research to begin troubleshooting and went over the following:

Door switch - Continuity OK when door closed

Start Switch - Continuity OK when pressed

Timer - Resistance 0 between power input and other connectors

2 thermostat on heating body - continuity OK (I did not remove connecting cables when testing. Don't know if that can affect results)

thermostat on the body of the fan - continuity OK

Outlet - OK 245v

Connecting cable - Continuity OK

So I did a little more research and I found out that the most possible scenario would be that the motor was out.

I bought a new motor...

I tried to install it, and couldn't detach the fan from the rear shaft of the old motor. So before buying a new fan, and breaking the old one, i decided to plug the new motor and test it out to see if everything would work out.

To my dismay after plunging in the new motor (the plugs were identical, so I did not have to rewire it) the motor did not start up. To test it a I had it plugged into the connector and over a cardboard box while I had the door switch jumped and pressing the start button.

I even unplugged the connector and check for electric power, and there was power available 120v 

 

Please help me see what have I done wrong or haven't done yet to get this machine back up and running

 

TIA
dudi

 

[howdryiam]

You have a future in appliance repair! A couple of comments for you. When testing thermostats and switches it is important to disconnect at least one lead from the component. Without isolating the component from the circuit you may be getting false readings that can foil your excellent troubleshooting efforts. 

Secondly, your notes say you tested ONE thermostat on the body of the fan. I believe there are TWO on the body of the fan. There is a thermal fuse that is longer than it is wide (instead of being round) with 2 light blue wires going to it. Let me know if you have checked continuity here. The vast majority of my ‘no start’ complaints for this dryer comes from this fuse being open.

Third, there is a switch underneath the motor actuated by the idler pulley arm called the ‘belt switch’. If the belt breaks this switch will be open and not allow the motor, or anything, to run. Rarely this switch will fail even though the belt is intact. Worth checking.