Monogram zis420nrk door hinge

[rokosz]

I read here weeks back about how fridge doors, due to weight/time and use can wear out load bearing cams/washers.

It seems  my zis has some problem with the door.  It can be swung shut without binding, but if not done hard enough it'll stop about 1-2" from sealing.

sometimes when I open the door I hear a clink of metal on metal coming from the area of the bottom door hinge.  I id'd that sound as one of the metal plates ( the left end of the long guy in this:  https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hinge/WR02X11211/944904?model=909936) . I can easily clink that plate with my hand by wiggling it.  It moves easily up and down on the inserted spindle

The equivalent part on the freezer door does not.

I'm willing to tackle it my self.  The effort seems straight-forward enough - but what parts are recommended?  Do I have the correct one linked above?  Ouch.  I was wondering if the spring provides/ed some sort of tension (like a return on most any door), and it broke.  At least I don't have to guess which part to get if I go with that part group.

Does any of this make sense?  Any other ideas?   If I need to I'll remove the door to get a better look before ordering...  thanks, samurais.

 

[16345Ed]

I’d check this item 200 on below part list. 
 

part number WR13X10657
 

 

[16345Ed]

201 and 202 on this one too should be inspected. 

[rokosz]

Thank you!  I missed the diagram for the door itself.

That spindle does appear to be the bearing point doesn't it?  I compared left (freezer) and right (fresh - problem).  The white bushing on the fresh side is not smooth sided (kind of like its squished/bulging out a tiny bit on the top surface and bottom surface.  the freeezer side bushing is smooth. reminds me of an xray of a healthy back-disc and a not so healthy bulging disc.

Is the bulging a traditional symptom?  202 and 200 are pretty substantial pieces (metal and price(!)).  Have you seen them wear or warp?  or does the fact the bushing is failing put stress on the metals?    Is it worth it to spring for the bushing, try it, and if not then get the metals?  Or is this an assembly that really should be replaced all at once? 

 

[16345Ed]

I’d try replacing the squashed bushing. 

[rokosz]

On 1/7/2020 at 6:25 PM, 16345Ed said:

I’d try replacing the squashed bushing. 

So, cautiously, I'll say yes the bushing (#201 in the diagram) was part of the problem. Its replaced and the door will close -- but you need to be sure you gave it enough of a push -- now if left alone it will stay open whereever you leave it. 

Future solvers:  Removing this door isn't the most straight forward:  The meat of the effort (with some prelim removals):  remove the top hinge 3/8" nuts (4).  Now, go to the floor:  remove the "shoulder bolt"  (#504 in the diagram) with a allen/hex , note the positions of the sleeves/bushing.  Now the door can be lifted off the lower door post. 

Replace the bushing and rehang the door.

I noted that, though the fresh door, new bushing in place will smoothly close it doesn't without at least a little push.

The freezer door happily swings shut if you give it a tiny nudge.

I started putting things together in my tortoise way.   When I removed the shoulder bolt I also, slowly, withdrew the 'closure and arm' (#516 in the diagram). Huh?  its not attached to anything! 

Well, perhaps it should be . At the far end of 516 there's a small hole.  I suspect the spring (#3507 in the diagram) s/b attached to 516 and the other end somewhere inside the right-hand base channel (#511 in the diagram). 

My presumption is the properly attached spring provides the tension that closes the door more actively.  So, Unless someone here can say don't bother, the spring isn't the issue:  I need to replace/reattach the spring, yes?

If so, Craplets!    This 1/4 ton beast is not easy to move/pull away from the wall.  Its not built in,  but it is tight on either side.  In the diagram  (#528) there is a long (adjusting) screw for leveling the rear wheels.  That's inside the base channel.  Of course this beast has been sitting in the same spot for years (kind of like the butt-dent in my tv-viewing couch). Might not be bad if I can get it moving.  Anybody have a suggestion on pulling this out?

Besides that, does anybody have experience or an idea on how to efficiently get the spring re-attached?  It doesn't seem like I can get inside the right base channel to reattach without turning the unit on its back or side. Yikes. 

And, I hope its re-attach: GE sells the arm/spring etc. as a bunch for $201. ow, ow ow. lotta dough for one spring Although, maybe I can take the remnants of my old one to a hardware store and match it. Probably cost $2.

Any input is greatly appreci-ated.

 

[rokosz]

Call off the dogs.  I couldn't let this go. I went back under the fridge with a flashlight and aha!  there's the spring -- and it doesn't attach in side the channel

but more toward the center/bottom of fridge.  It was broken. Ran to the hardware store before it closed and got something close. Easy to re-attach. The door is great:  closes automatically if its close to closed, stays in place when wide open.