Maytag LDE9304ACE dryer wont heat

[Budget Appliance Repair]

The motor switch contact point doesn't look that bad - most will look like that after a few years of operation.

18 hours ago, gtmclean said:

heard a small crackling sound which I would guess was coming from the control panel up top.

This statement would have me looking at the timer - intermittent burnt contact in timer making the crackling noise, much more common for the timer contacts to burn out, caused by users turning timer to turn off the dryer instead of just opening the door, then the motor switch.

[gtmclean]

Thanks for the reply

When I heard the crackling sound it did sound like it was coming from near the timer.

I could not see anything on the outside of timer that looked burnt and I do get continuity across BU and BK terminals on the timer when the timer is running. Does that mean the timer is OK or could there be something else going on with the timer? 

My wife is about ready for me to give up my new hobby of dryer repair and buy a new one but I am not quite ready to admit defeat! On the other hand she is getting tired of hanging wet clothes on the clothes rack in the kitchen 

[ECtoFix]

Don't give up now.  You're almost THERE!

7 hours ago, gtmclean said:

I could not see anything on the outside of timer that looked burnt and I do get continuity across BU and BK terminals on the timer when the timer is running.

They might be burnt, but you can't access the contacts to inspect them.

Readings for continuity with an ohmmeter falls W-A-Y short of testing under actual operating conditions, since the ohmmeter puts absolutely NO load on failing (burnt) contacts.  Heck, if the contacts have even the most minuscule SPECK of conductivity left in them, then YES - the ohmmeter will go through it with NO issues and give a good reading. 

The BEST test of their integrity is to run a full operating load through them.  SO, turn OFF the ohmmeter mode and switch to voltmeter mode.

Those contacts must carry over 20 amps at 240v to energize the heating element.  Since it's presently suspect, I suggest RUNNING the dryer while reading VOLTAGE across those two timer terminals.  Those conditions will paint a truer picture.

You're looking for what's called VOLTAGE DROP.  That is ANY voltage dropped across a resistance in a circuit.  Resistance is VERY undesirable across ANY switching contacts.

Assuming the rest of the circuit is GOOD, then a 0v reading across those contacts would be perfect...which is RARE.  Usually the BEST contacts will read in the millivolts range of VOLTAGE DROP. 

Any contacts performing poorly but still working, will veer up towards the 1v range or higher.  That MIGHT be only momentary though because they will probably fizzle out at that point and loose the conductivity necessary to carry that 20 amp load.

If the contacts aren't conducting AT ALL, then you'll be seeing the full 240v source voltage being dropped across those contacts (open).  If so, then replace the timer.

 

[gtmclean]

With the dryer running, I checked vac across the BU and BK terminals. I got readings of 0. The scale was set to 500 so I am guessing the 1v reading you referred to might not have registered.

I then checked the terminals across the temperature selector and also got 0.

I then tried to get a reading across the BU and BK terminals on the motor switch. It is hard to get to and I must have shorted something out. Got a loud pop, a tripped breaker and a bit smoke. 

 

, 

[ECtoFix]

5 hours ago, gtmclean said:

Got a loud pop, a tripped breaker and a bit smoke.

That happens even to me after some mistaken slight of hand.  Hopefully all you did was damage a meter lead.  Reset the breaker and try again.

********************************

There's another approach which Vance R had alluded to earlier.  Connect one meter lead permanently to a known good point with an alligator clip and leave it there.  Perhaps directly to L1 of the input terminal block.  That way you can do your probing using just one lead. 

From that perspective, you already know you'll get 240v across to L2.   Then you can work your way back until you get 0v. 

For instance, let's say that maybe the temp selector switch is bad (but we don't know that yet).   If it IS though, you'd read 240v on the L2 side of that switch (wire BU44), thus confirming the timer contacts are okay.  Then probing the other side of the switch gets 0v (wire RD42), therefore indicating that the switch contacts are open when they should be closed.

********************************

Vance and I have given you ALLOT of information that should enable you to find the problem.  I hate to say this, but either one of US would have likely found that problem in about the same time that it took me to type this most recent reply.  His approach and mine might differ, but we do this sorta work everyday and know what works best for us in given situations.

I do hope you finally find the problem and fix it.  There's a certain satisfaction in doing so that has kept me at it for so many years.  I like being the hero.

In this process of assisting you, I still learn something as well.  Furthermore, you're gaining some new skills that may benefit you in the future.

[Vance R]

On 5/2/2020 at 6:36 PM, Vance R said:

Put one lead on L2 of your terminal block and leave it there for these tests.

Tagging one reference spot make it easier to follow and understand.

[gtmclean]

Thanks again for all the information and encouragement. I do think I am  learning a lot. I need to get some leads with alligator clips so I can try Vance's approach. I am not quite ready to give up!

[gtmclean]

I think I have fixed the dryer. The connections at L1 seemed to be the problem. I really appreciate all the guidance you all gave me. I feel like I learned a lot along the way. The saga below is how it went......

Before plugging it in I thought I would verify I had L1 and L2 identified correctly. When I tested L1 to the timer along BK23 I got no continuity. When I looked at the wires at L1 the yellow and black wire had completely detached from the eyes and looked burnt. I then noticed the chord from the wall into L1 was melted near L1.

I crimped on new eyes to BK 23 and Y-BK 43 and attached then to L1. I also installed a new dryer cord. I turned on the timer and saw 240V between L2 all the way to RD 42 on the temperature switch. This told me the timer and temperature switch were OK. At this point, I turned on the motor and got heat!. I tried it a few more times and it seemed to work consistently. I have put it back together and we have been using it all weekend. 

My amateur level guess is that the connections at L1 may have been flaky and that is why I heard crackling sounds in some of my early tests. I am also guessing that when I shorted out the circuit that have broken the wires that were already weak. I don't know if that is even possible but that is all I can think of.

Again, thanks for all the help!

 

[ECtoFix]

1 hour ago, gtmclean said:

I think I have fixed the dryer. The connections at L1 seemed to be the problem. I really appreciate all the guidance you all gave me. I feel like I learned a lot along the way. 

Glad to hear that and thanks for the update.

The problem you found is not uncommon in circuits carrying high-amp resistive loads.  MOST of the time (but not always), a good visual inspection of connections will reveal overheated connections (blackened/melted insulation and wires that have stiffened). 

Sounds like you took proper steps to address the problem.  Good, clean, TIGHT connections is very important.  Additionally, wiring that's been overheated and has oxidized/stiffened should replaced too.  Buying a new cord was definitely the right thing to do.