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Understanding how the Water Level Sensor in LG Washing Machines work

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 19 October 2013 · 992 views
LG, washer, water level sensor and 1 more...
Water level sensing in LG washers is done differently from how you may be used to seeing it done in other brands. Whirlpool, GE, Electrolux and others use an air tube connecting an air dome on the tub to a pressure sensor with a physical diaphragm or transducer that "feels" the water level increase as an increase in pressure inside the air tube. LG uses frequency measurements. How's that again? I'll let Brother john63, Dean of LG Appliantology explain:

The Water Level Frequency Sensor operation is based on the displacement of the *coil* attached to the diaphragm.

When the *coil* raises or lowers---it changes the electronically resonant characteristics of the oscillator circuit.

The water level is measured by the Main Board---by frequency readings.

I've never had a failed Water Level Sensor.

It is best tested while on the washer---by using the TEST MODE.

On most LG washers---the Test Mode is enabled by pressing and holding the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons---and then pressing the POWER button (release all 3 buttons and wait for the door to lock).

Press the START / PAUSE button 4 times at one second intervals (Prewash Cold Water Fill)

The display read-out on the Control Panel will show the *frequency*

Empty---the frequency read-out should be about 255

A tub full of water should show a frequency of about 214 (depending on model number)


Some of the errors that can be displayed---relating to water fill are...

IE error:

Little or no water---usually caused by a failed Water Valve

FE error:

Too much water (overflow detected)---Can be a failed/stuck open Water Valve or blockage in the black air tube which is connected to the Water Level Frequency Sensor. Disconnect the tube from the sensor---and blow air back into the tub to clear obstruction.

To test the Water Level Frequency Sensor outside of the washer...

Use a test meter to check the ohms between pins 1 and 3 (should have between 21 & 23 ohms).



Source: LG PRESSURE SENSOR OPERATION


A Backdoor Test for the Mode Shifter in the Whirlpool VM Washers

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 19 October 2013 · 727 views
whirlpool, washer, VMW, VM washer and 1 more...
These new Whirlpool vertical modular (VM) top-loading washers are pretty easy to troubleshoot, mostly because they practically troubleshoot themselves with fault/error code combinations that you can read in diagnostic mode.

The mode shifter has turned out to be one of the common-fail parts on this washer and it's regular rolling inventory for me. Although the fault/error codes will point specifically to the mode shifter if there's a problem with it, there may be situations where you want to test the mode shifter directly. Brother Eric calls the dance steps on that little ditty:


Yes, you should have 5vdc at J2 pin 2 (pink) with connector disconnected. This is a digital logic level provided via pull-up resistor on the control board. The rpm sensor in the shifter will "pull" this level low (0 volts) each time the optical sensor light path is interrupted by the rotating blade inside the transmission. This creates a digital square wave to the processor (switches between 5vdc and 0vdc). The frequency of the square wave is dependent upon speed of rotation of the transmission and is calclulated by the processor to determine rpm. If you monitor J2 pin 2 while wire harness is connected and rotate the tub very slowly, you should see it switch between 5vdc and 0vdc. You should also have 5vdc on J2 pin 1 when in spin mode and 0vdc when in agitate mode.

Eric



Source: Amana NTW4600yq


Tips for getting the best results from your LG washer-dryer combo

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair, Dryer Repair 29 August 2013 · 1,328 views
LG, washer, dryer, combo
Brother john63, the Dean of LG Appliantology, offers some pearls of wisdom for getting the best results from those LG washer-dryer combo units:

Provide your customer with the following information---and they'll be more informed as to how best to use the combo washer/dryer.

Use ONLY "HE" type detergent in the following dosage (for this small-size tub):

HE (regular concentration): (1) Tablespoon Per Wash

HE 2X (double concentrated): (1) Teaspoon Per Wash

HE 3X (triple concentrated): ***NOT RECOMMENDED***

Remind the customer *not* to load the washer tub past the ***black hash mark*** that is located on a sticker/emblem---on the left side of the door/tub opening.
A fully loaded tub will *wash* fine---as long as the clothing is not compressed/pushed into the tub but---the laundry will not dry very well (taking up to 6 hours to dry laundry).

Advise the customer to select/use the TIME DRY dryer cycle rather than *automatic*.
They will need to select the desired cycle RUN TIME for the dry cycle.
After a month or so of using the TIME DRY cycle---the customer will become familiar with the amount of time needed to adequately dry an average-size or type of laundry load.
Using the TIME DRY cycle in a combo unit---eliminates/avoids using the dual THERMISTORS that are located on the DUCT ASSY.
This also allows for a higher temperature during the dry cycle (laundry dries faster).
Use the *automatic* dryer cycles for Delicates only.

Armed with all of this *very* relevant information---the customer becomes less frustrated/more relieved---that not only do they have far better *intel* on their particular combo---but that you ACTUALLY CARED to inform/educate them about it.
It's best to write this down and give it to the customer.
It's *impossible* for the average customer to *memorize* all of this:)
Good Luck.



Source: LG washer dryer combo


Old Skool washing machine motors: a quick, simple explanation of how they work

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 12 August 2013 · 1,248 views
motor, electric motor and 2 more...
The Old Skool washing machine motors that we all know and love are the big, honkin', clunky motors in all the older model top loading washing machines. They are controlled with simple mechanical timers and switches. Depending on which contacts are made on the timer, the direction of rotation can be controlled. In order to have different speeds, the motor has to have different windings physically built into it at the time of manufacture and then the timer or selector switch can energize these different windings.

It was all pretty crude technology and but it was rugged, simple, and easy to troubleshoot. And it all worked great for a long time until the Energy Star requirements came along and mandated lower energy use in washing machines and other appliances. Nowadays, the new front-loaders and the new high-efficiency top-loaders all use variable speed motors that require a special (and often expensive) phase control board. These types of motor arrangements are often called "variable-frequency drives" or "inverter drives." Wikipedia has a pretty good primer on this technology if you want to read more about it.

Anyway, back to the Old Skool motors. Why do we still care about these? Because there are still lots of them out there so any competent Appliantologist has to have a working understanding of both types of motor drives. Like the saying goes, "You can't figure out what's wrong if you don't know what 'right' is." IOW, how you have to understand how they're supposed to work so you can troubleshoot them when they're not working. Brother fairbank56 gives us a good, concise explanation of how these Old Skool motors operate...


For anyone interested in the theory. The motor in question is a single phase squirrel cage induction motor. A rotating magnetic field is required to get the rotor rotating. Single phase power does not provide this so we add another winding, the start winding. The way it is wound (number of turns and wire size) in conjunction with the series capacitor provides a phase shift in the current applied to it with respect to the current applied to the run winding. This creates a rotating magnetic field. Once the rotor is rotating, it creates its own rotating magnetic field and the start winding is no longer required and is switched out of circuit. On this particular motor, the start winding and capacitor are not designed for continuous power and will be damaged if not switched out of circuit after the motor starts or if it doesn't start. Starting direction of rotation is determined by the polarity of current through one winding with respect to the other winding. Reversing polarity of either winding will cause direction of rotation to reverse.

Eric



Source: Amana won't agitate in Regular Cycles


Accessing test mode and stored error codes in a Bosch WFMC6400 washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 09 August 2013 · 1,484 views
Bosch, washer, WFMC, error codes
Brother PDUff calls the key dance steps:

To access test program:

1) Rotate cycle selector knob to Off position.

2) To enter test program, push and hold Menu and Select buttons at the same time, then rotate cycle selector knob CCW to Permanent Press Cold position. Hold Menu and Select buttons until P1:Errors shows in display.

3) To select test, push Menu button to scroll through tests until desired test shows in display (P1 - P17). The Start/Pause light will flash.

4) Select test P1 for fault recall and push the Start/Pause button while it is flashing. The display will show fault code and when fault occurred on in the last 8 washes.
Control module faults Er:01-24. Motor control faults dr:01-18.

5) To end test, push Spin selection button.

6) To exit test program, rotate cycle selector knob to Off.



Source: Bosch Washer - WFMC6400UC/01 - Door Locks Thats it






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