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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

How to Change Out a Hidden Bake Element in Maytag Electric Range

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 09 January 2013 · 1,343 views
maytag, oven, bake, element
There's a trick, of course (isn't there always a trick?). And Grand Master Funk kdog calls the dance steps:

Haven't seen a snazzy new Maytag like that, but suspect it is just a rebreanded K/A W/P
This is the same 4 pass "hidden" bake element used in the others - you just spread the insulation out of the way and slide the element out the side from the metal strip

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Source: Changing a hidden bake element in Maytag MER7662WW1 Oven

Appliantology Newsletter: Keep Your Oven Cooking for Thanksgiving

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Appliantology Newsletter, Oven-Range-Stove Repair 02 November 2012 · 1,510 views
Appliantology Newsletter
Keep Your Oven Cooking for Thanksgiving
November 1, 2012
Running Your Oven's Self-Clean Could Mean Cold Turkey on Thanksgiving Day
Professional Appliantologists mark the seasons by the mix of service calls we get. We're just now coming out of refrigerator season and getting into the thick of oven season. Every year, in the few days leading up to Thanksgiving Day, I can always count on a ton of last-minute, panicked service calls.

"Why is that, Samurai?" you ask.

Well, I'll tell you. For some reason, people always wait until the last few days before Thanksgiving Day to run the self-clean feature on their oven. Some folks may be thinking the oven should be clean before they cook the communal turkey in it. Others may be anticipating the meddlesome mother-in-law oven inspection. The problem is not "why" you run the self-clean, but "when." Lemme explain…

During self-clean, the temperatures inside the oven cell can exceed 900F. This is very stressful on the oven's sensor, door lock assembly, and electronic control board. If anything is on the verge of breaking, it will usually happen during the self-clean cycle. This means that if you think you're going to run the self-clean cycle in your oven, don't wait until a few days before before Thanksgiving Day, when you'll need it to cook that big turkey for a house full of guests, do it now! Then, if something does break in the oven, you'll have time to get it repaired and won't end up in a last-minute panic trying to get your oven fixed.

According to Rob Marriott, National Technical Manager for Dacor, a manufacturer of high-end ranges and ovens, "If you're going to use the self-clean feature, use it a lot or don't use it at all." The reason for this is that the most common thing to fail in an oven during self-clean is the door lock assembly. On many modern ovens, the door lock assembly has a little motor that locks and unlocks the door. This motor is controlled by the oven's electronic control board (the control panel with the digital display). If this motor isn't used on a regular basis, the accumulated grease that collects in the motor during normal use will coagulate and harden during self-clean and bind the motor so that it can't unlock the door.

The oven temperature sensor is also stressed during self-clean and is the second-most common thing to fail during or after running the self-clean cycle. Less commonly, yet still prevalent, the oven's electronic control board can fail due the extra heat it receives during self-clean.

Personally, we never run the oven self-clean cycle at the Samurai's dojo. But, I understand there are lots of valid reasons why someone would want to, two of which I mentioned above. So, if you're planning on running the self-clean in your oven, here are some...
Handy Links In Case Something Goes Wrong
Post your question, get your answer at our DIY appliance repair forums, The Samurai Appliance Repair Academy:

Get parts FAST-- even overnight and Saturday delivery-- for any brand and model of oven with a one-year return policy. Just enter your model number in the search box at the top of the page at Appliantology.org.

This picture shows you the most common places to look on your oven or range to find the model number tag.:

Happy Thanksgiving!
... and thanks for reading.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man, www.Appliantology.org

Bluestar Range RCS30 Door Hinge Repair/Fix

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 08 October 2012 · 1,481 views
Bluestar, range, hinge
Awesome repair tip on hinge problems in Bluestar ranges from Appliantological Brother Rooster...

1.5 year old Bluestar freestanding gas range door would not close completely[attachment=6793:Bluestar01.jpg]. This allowed heat to escape, resulting in uneven cooking temps and extremely hot knobs. (not talking about my wife!)

The Chief of Staff insisted the installer had repaired it with a "long skinny screwdriver" without removing the door.
Well, After many beers :pint1: and on-line researching sessions, I decided a few things!

1. Bluestar definitely has a door "problem"
2. I didn't want to pay for a new door
3. We live in the sticks
4. The damn thing should work!

So, I did the only thing any red-blooded American member of the Samurai Appliantology Academy would do,
decided to disassemble the door and finger it out.

What I discovered, is Bluestar has a design flaw in the interior of it's doors (at least on 2010 models).

The hinge assy spring rods:

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(guessing at nomenclature, don't have a manual) float freely within the door. However, as you can see:

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when closing, at full extension the ends of the bars contact the sheet metal heat shield. I flexed the heat shield out of the way, which allowed:

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the springs to extend fully, which allowed the hinge cam rollers:

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to complete their throw, thereby closing the door firmly:

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I removed the door by releasing the receivers on each hinge:

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then pulling the door from the oven. I then removed the Door Cover by removing all retaining screws (10).
After placing the door on a smooth covered surface ("Don't scratch the damn paint", she said with vigor!),
I used a Dremel with hardened cutting wheel to cut an approximate 1/4" incision:

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on the heat shield on both sides ( Cut with the blade rotating in a direction which doesn't throw debris into the fireproof mat material underneath the sheet metal heat shield )

Then I reinstalled the door minus cover (note: the door without the weight of the installed cover will snap closed, requires more attention and less beer to perform):

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Opening the door slightly allowed me to compress the springs enough to attach a vise grip:

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to the tabs created by the cuts and bend them outwards slightly at approx 25deg angle:

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This angle allowed enough clearance between the heat shield and the back of the door cover, and also formed a ramp upon which the spring rods ride closed.

I then removed the door, attached the cover and reinstalled the door.

Worked perfectly, door closed completely, wife happy (the most important result :thumbsup: ), no more hot knobs! I also think the first repairman knew the problem and used a long skinny screwdriver to free the guide ends. Of course, the next time we opened the door they flexed out and came to rest on the fire shield. I think maybe he was expecting another service call??? At any rate, after much searching on the web, there are a ton of complaints about Bluestar doors. Hope they find us here! Cheers!

Source: Bluestar Range RCS30 Door Hinge Repair/Fix

Oven temperature seems off? How are you measuring your oven temperature?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 23 May 2012 · 1,359 views
oven, temperature

Oven Temperature Calibration Method (from Whirlpool):

If a consumer complaints about poor baking performances, the first steps to take would be to
make sure the oven temps are calibrated correctly; follow the four coming steps to properly
calibrate the oven:

1. Insert the bulb or (thermocouple) from your thermometer making sure to clip it to the oven
temperature sensor for best result.

2. Turn on the oven and set to 300*F, when you first turn on the oven it will do a 6 minute
pre-heat, once the pre-heat is completed the oven should be at around 260*F. The oven
will continue to heat until the set temperature is reached.

3. Once the set temp is reached the control will shutt off the heating element, after the
heating element shuts off the oven temp will continue to rise for a bit longer. At this time
you need to record the highest temperature in the oven (for this we will use 315*F), once
the oven temps reaches it max it will start to climb down. It will continue to climb down to
more or less 285*F, you need to record this temp as well.

4. At this time you should have two sets of temps (315*F and 285*F), you need to let the
oven cycle 2 more times and record all of the temps to which you should have 6 different
numbers at the end of all cycles.

For example

After obtaining all of the cycled temps you need to add them all up and dived them by 6.

Source: Kenmore Oven Cycling Temps

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