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[video] No oven heat on a DUAL FUEL range

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Entry posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Watch as I demonstrate some basic troubleshooting katas applicable to all appliances, regardless of brand or type.

 

Wondering what the fault on L2 was? Here's the big reveal: we actually induced the failure ourselves on our test range in the Samurai Studio (in our secret lair hidden deep in a volcano) so we could show you this basic troubleshooting kata.

Our videos are not showing pattern recognition ("if this symptom replace this part"), product training, or parts changing. We are showing the high-dollar troubleshooting skills that apply to ALL appliances, regardless of model or type.

If this were an actual service call, here would be the rest of our troubleshooting thought process: After narrowing it down to L2 we would check the circuit breaker (turn it off then back on). If still no go on L2, it would be time to pull out the range and check the following:

  1. Spades on the plug: evidence of pitting or charring indicates a problem with the outlet. 
  2. Both 120 and 240 VAC at the outlet.
  3. Terminal block: look for burnt wires. 

Learn to troubleshoot like a Master at https://mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-courses/

 

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Slav

Slav

Posted

According to the schematics, the Neutral wire starts as a White Wire "W-5" but then turns into "BK-5"... doesn't that mean a Black Wire going to P5 connector?... Or, "BK-5" stands for something else?

Thank you in advance.

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Posted

  • Team Samurai

Good to see you were paying attention! We actually addressed this in the original version of the video but cut it out to shorten the final version... and to see if anyone would notice. 🤓

This is a good example of real-world glitches we have to deal with; in this case, typos and mis-labelings on the schematic. Similarly to when I was discussing the L2 input to the DLB relay, this is where a FUNCTIONAL understanding of circuits saves the day and prevents you from getting head faked. 

If you look at the schematic markup below, you'll notice they actually change the name of that wire three times: starts as W-5, then W-1, then BK-5. The important thing is the FUNCTION of that line (Neutral) and its terminating location on the ERC (P5-5). If you keep this in mind, you won't get head faked by schematic typos. 

 

Electrolix Dual Fuel Range Neutral Path.png

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