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Solved my water flow problem on my GE Profile French Door fridge. It was not a frozen line or some of the other common items I read online. It just needed a good cleaning. So, my water and ice stopped dispensing. I quickly discovered not a water flow issue because the auto fill water worked. I was pretty surprised that I could not find a single video online on how to take apart the display area to troubleshoot. No screws, just a few clips on the sides. After a few trials to pry it off, being careful not to break it, what worked was putting my hand in the ice funnel (fingers in the ice shoot, palm on top of the display with my wrist facing up) and I gave it a few gentle tugs and the clips popped loose. Next (after taking a few photos for reinstall) I unplugged the clips, all simple and easily came off. Next removed the ice funnel (just slides out). The "fill paddle" (the area you press to dispense water/ice) was a little tricky, trying not to break it. You have to squeeze the top 2 black connectors/clips together and pull towards you. I used a small flat head screwdriver wedged into one side, as I worked with another small flat head screwdriver on the other side and worked it loose. I cleaned everything up (hard water here in AZ, so I used a Q tip and vinegar). There was a little buildup around the button on the fill paddle. I also tested the voltage on various items: 1. Plug that goes into the main board (they are labeled on the board, but I tested without the board and just on the plug attached to the fridge). I knew I was getting power as the lights were on, but checked to confirm. 2. Paddle switch. Plugged the main board back in, plugged the paddle back in and and put volt meter into the plug and pressed the switch a few times to see if I get a change in reading. Sure did, confirmed the switch was working. After a good cleaning (it was pretty gross knowing my ice is going through all that before I consume it). Reassembled and tested. I was not expecting much, and figured at this point if it does not work I need a new control board. At least I could do the repair myself if that is the case. But, to my pleasant surprise it WORKED! Not sure if it was the cleaning, or reinserting the plugs. Thought I would put this out there since I spent a good 2 hours looking for help on this model and couldn't find much, if anything at all other than part diagrams.

I have a GE Profile model PSHS6VGXCDSS that is freezing my fruits and vegetables in the custom coolling drawer and the fruits and vegetable drawer above it. I have made sure the custom cooling drawer is off from the display and even taped off the damper opening on the freezer side to try and block the cold air from coming in. I really don't use the custom cooling so do not care if it works as long as I can use it for normal storage. Both drawers are about 26 degrees. The refidgerator is set on 37 degrees. There appears to be a tempature gradiant from the top at about 44 degrees to inside the meat drawer at about 34 degrees.

Our top load GE Profile WPRE8150H0WT has started sounding louder and louder over the last couple weeks. During spin cycles it is starting to resemble a jet engine. It does not get off balance and there are no grinding or metal on metal noises apparent. There may be a new or louder clicking type noise when in the back and forth agitation cycle but I'm not sure. From the serial number (RM120235G) It looks to be about 11 years old. Does anyone know of the common things that wear out on these units that would cause it to get more noisy? Thanks, Norm

I ordered a new burner valve for our GE Profile cooktop (model # JGP979BEF2BB). I have followed instructions to replace here BUT I cannot figure out how to remove the burner switch valve. it seems stuck on. If anyone could please help me get through this, I know my entire family would greatly appreciate. THANK YOU!

GE Profile side by side from about 2010 (Model number pscs5rgxcfss) cooling / freeing ability not enough. woke the other morning after a very large electrical storm (but no power cuts nor nearby lightning strikes) the night before to notice that the compressor noise was slightly different tone and seemed to sound a little more mechanical than before, and the air being blown from under the fridge was particularly warm. Pulled unit out and removed rear covers. Notice that the inside temperatures were rising. condenser fan run as I can see it. evaporator fan runs by listening to the noise inside. when unit is turned off I can hear the freon inside so dont think there's a leak. and it is providing some cooling, but not enough. freezer is slowly rizing at about 20F whereas the fridge is already at 50F compressor is running but not very fast / hard. measured ohms on the three connector pins on the compressor and the were between 7 and 8ohms, but I did notice that the longer I left the multimeter attached that the resistance decreased with time. is that usual?? is there compressor suspect too? the control board looks ok on both sides (no obvious burns), but I suspect it as I did get an electric shock off whilst touching one of the heat sinks on the control board and then measure the voltage to the earth screw on the compressor feet to be 77v DC!! The compressor control voltage measure both on control board and at connector to the inverter and found to be continually fluctuating between 5.5v dc and 4.3v dc over a period of 1 second. is this normal? what's the best way to check the control board and how can I be sure its only the control board? or can a power surge affect the inverter as well as the control board? Any help will be gratefully received and many thanks in advance.

I need the service Manual for GE Profile dishwasher, gsd5130d02ww. Thanks