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Watch as I demonstrate some basic troubleshooting katas applicable to all appliances, regardless of brand or type. Wondering what the fault on L2 was? Here's the big reveal: we actually induced the failure ourselves on our test range in the Samurai Studio (in our secret lair hidden deep in a volcano) so we could show you this basic troubleshooting kata. Our videos are not showing pattern recognition ("if this symptom replace this part"), product training, or parts changing. We are showing the high-dollar troubleshooting skills that apply to ALL appliances, regardless of model or type. If this were an actual service call, here would be the rest of our troubleshooting thought process: After narrowing it down to L2 we would check the circuit breaker (turn it off then back on). If still no go on L2, it would be time to pull out the range and check the following: Spades on the plug: evidence of pitting or charring indicates a problem with the outlet. Both 120 and 240 VAC at the outlet. Terminal block: look for burnt wires. Learn to troubleshoot like a Master at https://mastersamuraitech.com/appliance-repair-courses/

Always I seem to expect more of a problem than it actually is, while not in my comfort zone diagnosing a non working gas oven, family's hoping to be ready for Thanksgiving day. Feeling like they depend on me now. No amp draw from ignitor, wires both wires white shouldn't make any difference right ? no continuity on ignitor (one lead off), the other badly frayed at terminal, replaced the crimp on quick connector, still no amp draw, tested continuity completely out of the circuit, still nothing. However 120 vac at the ignitor. Diagnosing one problem at at time, this sounds correct to me, also how to diagnosis temp thermostat in oven just in case. thks all. Expect the Unexpected