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    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
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Posted

Returned to the dryer to find it running, clothes dry, clothes not warm. Lint screen was loaded with lint. Timer was still in original time setting.  Cleaned out lint  in preparation for next load. The dryer would not start no noise, nothing.  I did rush out to buy a new thermal fuse before the dealer closed up. Came home and figured I would trouble shoot and learn my way around this repair before simply swapping out the thermal fuse. Thermal Fuse, Push to Start Switch, Door Switch and Thermostat all tested positive (continuity) while isolated. I made a jumper wire lead with alligator clips and decent old extension cord. Drum Motor and Timer Unit (in turn) operated normally while receiving power straight from 120v outlet. Timer Unit tested positive for continuity at black to blue prongs, but at brown to tan prongs, did not make it all the way over to zero on my analog multimeter. Good grief...starting over, I bypassed the thermal fuse by fixing together both blue wire terminal with a thin bit of tape stretched around both. Set the timer, pushed start and it started right up with good heat. I tested the old thermal fuse again and still shows good. At this point, the heck with trying to save ten bucks on the fuse, out came the new fuse. Hooked it to the blue wires, NOTHING. It will only run if the fuse is bypassed. Please help!

Thanks,

Therm

 

 

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  • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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  • DurhamAppliance

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  • Fixerdude

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Posted (edited)

hmmm... doesn't make sense unless you have a connector problem.. using the alligator clips would avoid an oxidized inside of a female connector or a connector not firmly attached to its wire. .

with the fuse connected, and dryer unplugged,  touch your multimeter probe to the outside of the female connectors (making sure yoir probes aren't touching the fuse spades..... if not continuity then connector problem.  Also with power on, set to dry...  meter set  to voltage and if you get any measurable voltage  using probes as previously described, then sounds like a connector problem

 

  

Edited by DurhamAppliance
  • Team Samurai
Posted
8 hours ago, Fixerdude said:

brown to tan prongs

The schematic does not call out either of these wire colors. Post a photo of the timer wiring.

Do the terminals on the blue wires attaching to the thermal fuse fit tightly or do they slip on with little effort? Post a photo of the blue wires that connect to the thermal fuse especially showing the terminals.

Use a photo hosting site to upload your photos and post the links here. 

Re-check the continuity of the new thermal fuse. Did you buy an OEM replacement thermal fuse or a generic?

 

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