kenmore coldspot 106.54683300 not cooling

[Steve hates sears]

I have a Kenmore Coldspot side by side fridge 106.54683300.  It has stopped getting cold.  I cleaned the condenser which was very dirty, having not been previously cleaned 12 years.  The compressor was very warm to the touch.  When I plugged it back in the compressor would go on for about 10-15 seconds then cut out.  A few minutes later, it would repeat that cycle.  I thought perhaps it was too hot, so I unplugged it and let it cool down.  No luck.  I pulled the relay start assembly, (2255198) and replaced it with the new generation one 2319792.  Still, I am having the same issue, compressor comes on, then clicks off after about 10-15 seconds.  Compressor is cool now (hasn't been run in a few hours), same issue.  Could it be the capacitor?  Any ideas?  I don't like drinking my jack and coke with no ice.   All of the fans are working.  Thanks.

[vee8power]

You may have a bad compressor. A bad run capacitor would still allow it to start. Make sure to keep the condenser clean on your next fridge.

[Steve hates sears]

21 hours ago, vee8power said:

You may have a bad compressor. A bad run capacitor would still allow it to start. Make sure to keep the condenser clean on your next fridge.

How do you know if you have a bad compressor?  Checking the ohms between the three pins checks out (9,6,3ish) no fault to ground from any of the pins.  Also, the compressor DOES START, it just clicks off after about 10-15 seconds.  When I pulled the capacitor and attempted to discharge it I got nothing... no spark, no pop, nada.  Before I spend $3,000 on a new fridge I'd like to have an idea if the $10 capacitor is to blame.

[DanInKansas]

You'd need a meter that measures microfarads to know for sure. That said, those capacitors almost never go bad -- I have replaced one in the past 6 years. 

I think you just got the wrong part. By just replacing the start device, you haven't replaced the overload. Your example sounds like a textbook case of an overload kicking the machine off. 

Part number 4387835 has both the relay and the overload.Try that before condemning the refrigerator. 

 

 

[Steve hates sears]

Now i'm even more confused.  I replaced the "Start-Device Combination" which is part # 2255198 on the parts diagram.  It is followed by the note "for Production Compressor Only."  It is an Embraco QD TSD2.  I am under the impression this is a start relay and overload.  The part you (DanInKansas) reference, 4387835 is on my parts diagram, with the note that it is on the "Service Commpressor Only."  There is another note on the bottom of the diagram that says "production compressor requires production electrical components, service compressor requires service electrical components."

So, I am under the impression that I either have a "start-device" which contains the relay and overload (which I have replaced) OR the separate cover / overload attached to the compressor. 

I don't see any other electrical device attached to the compressor other than the one item I have replaced; with the exception of the capacitor, which attaches to the start-relay combination I have replaced.

Perhaps my problem is that the compressor has gone bad, it has blown out my original overload, then it has blown out the replacement that I purchased?  uuuggghhhh......

 

[vee8power]

The part you replaced does include the overload. To rule out the capacitor, you could simply try running the compressor without it. Detecting a case ground sometimes requires a super sensitive ohm meter. My multi-meter set on ohms will show a reading through my body if I grab both leads; that's not even sensitive enough. The proper tool is called a megger. Another tool you could use is a clamp on amp meter to see what the amperage draw of the compressor is. If it's drawing too much juice, the overload opens; that's its job.  

[DanInKansas]

Yeah, I got on the wrong track when I saw this picture.

Looking at this picture of the same part -- the white part with the downward facing tabs  -- that's the overload. So yes Vee8Power is right. 

You may want to buy another one of these anyway, just to eliminate the 1% chance it's bad out of the box, but certainly your compressor is behaving like it's not coming off the start windings and overheating the overload. 

[DanInKansas]

And of course, the same logic can apply to getting a new capacitor. If you want to rule it out, probably the cheapest way to do that for you given the tools you have is to get another one. Just don't put a whole lot of hope behind it. Essentially you're buying a lottery ticket. 

[Steve hates sears]

yup, not the capacitor.  Ordered a new fridge tonight.  Thanks for the input.