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    • 09 November 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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GE side by side, almost fixed


Danglerb

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GE side by side 33 years old, TFF24RCB. Compressor stopped running, cycled and clicked, unplugged. Did some research, found both the relay and gaurdette are NLA, so I bought a Supco 410 hard start, and waited for my electrically savvy friend to have time to look at it.. Relay appeared to have failed, no engagement for start, so no start when run voltage present.Installed the hard start, compressor started right up and fridge cooled down "close" to spec, maybe 5F higher than expected from diagram.

Problems are running too long, but does cycle, front face next to door seal is hot, about 125F. All accessible coils and air path brushed out and vacuumed prior to fix.

Relay WR7X138 and Gaurdette WR8X44 are both NLA, but IC102 has been suggested as a replacement relay, no idea on Guardette replacement, but it sure looks like a common part.

Hard start has C, M, S that goes to compressor, and two black wires that were connected with wire nuts to the 3 wires from the fridge harness. Originally the condenser fan connected to temp control out on one end and between compressor and gaurdette on other end. Not possible with 3n1 hardstart as the thermal overload is internal, but pretty sure it was or has been running.

Thanks.

 

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Probably better off getting a push on Generic relay instead of a hard start... something like the Supco PRO41.  You would not have had to rewire the fridge. 

Also, techs operate best when presented with definitives  ie is the fan motor running or not? Unfortunately,  "pretty sure"  aint gonna cut it. 

Edited by DurhamAppliance
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Lots of these old GE's have the condenser fan wired to the start relay and overload.  If you didn't get it wired back up correctly the condenser fan motor may not be running and that would explain the excessively hot center divider strip and slightly higher temp temps then specs called for.

If the condenser fan isn't running and you don't take care of the problem the refrig and freezer will start to get warmer as the condenser gets too hot and the coolant is to saturated with heat to cool to acceptable temps.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair
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Condenser fan was wired wrong, moved wire, runs fine.

We didn't look over the wiring diagram well enough, thought we needed to put hot side power to fan, and it needed a ground side connection from the 3 wire connector we spliced into. When I say ground, I mean the non hot side of the plug, is that common or ground?

I think this model uses a yodel loop, and I didn't realize that was why the front face was hot or I would have jumped right to condenser fan not working. I thought it might be defrost heaters or something.

Thanks

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