Fisher & Paykel GWL11 rinse/spin issues

[pcmacd]

This machine occasionally gets stuck in RINSE/SPIN; the last the lights on the right stay on.  It drains a bit.  It starts to spin up very slowly...and gets to a slow spin speed, stops, repeats ad nauseum.  The cover locks successfully.

In the past, turning OFF POWER, unplugging for a half hour, rebooting and going directly to RINSE cycle worked.  Not today.

I've removed the agitator and there is nada there to interfere with anything.

I am getting no codes while it is running.

Had pump out recently to remove some metal clasp stuck in there.  Worked great after that (it was NOISY) but his problem precedes that one.

Would it do to go into mtce. mode and check for codes when it gets hung like this?

tanks

mac

[pcmacd]

I should have said that the LAST THREE LIGHTS to the right stay on, indicating it is in rinse/spin mode.  Sometimes my brain works fatter than my fingers. 

[pcmacd]

UPDATE:  After the washer was unplugged for about 30 minutes, started, went directly to SPIN (Last light) and it spun up just great.  Hit pause; put in a bunch of wet sheets.  It started to spin up and did the same old sad song again; the spin din't get very fast, it shut down, and started over.

There was no balance issue - the machine ran smoothly.

Help!  Help Cecil!  Help! 

[pcmacd]

Is there a way to reset the computer that runs this machine?  Does leaving it unplugged for 40 years do that???

tanks.

[pcmacd]

It does the short/repetitive rinse/ too-slow-spin cycle in every mode; heavy duty, perma prest, etc.  Perma prest may be at proper speed, but it cuts out early and starts the spin over.

It will also spin full speed and stay there with an empty tub in the default laundry mode.

I'll check for fault codes later today.

[Hiroshi]

This is all pointing at your drain pump, it only acts up when there is water in the tub? No machine can adequately spin full of water, so most are designed not to try spinning at full when they detect water- go after the pump and clean all the G.I. Joe action figures and bobby pins in there!

[pcmacd]

I had a (111000) = 240 fault code; that's the RPS not being happy.  Manual says more or less 1) cables not properly connected or corroded, 2) Bad RPS unit, 3) bad motor controller. 

Pulled off the rotor and stator, inspected RPS... it looked great.  Blew silicone based contact cleaner into the stator power connectors and the RPS connector.  Opened up the top and removed all the cables headed below (two bundles) from the motor controller and inspected; all look good .  Sprayed contact cleaner into the cable connections and onto the motor controller connectors, replace cables, button back up top.

Close inspection of stator shows about a half dozen stress cracks.  Me pappy taught me a long time ago how to stop cracks from propagating; drill a very small (1/16") hole at either end of the crack, RIGHT AT THE END.  Some cracks were right up near the windings... used a plastic tool to shield the field wiring so the bit would not cut them.  Normally I would drill small holes either side of the crack perhaps 3/8" apart, stitch up with mental floss and spread some fiberglass resin or epoxy around the wound, but I figure it is likely going to split in other places and the holes at the crack terminations should limit damage from those.  I'll find a used, newer model stator with a smooth interior that perhaps won't be subject to cracking, and I'll be good not to overload the tub in the future (guilty!  guilty!  guilty!) Keep in mind that the stator has to react the dynamic load put onto the rotor by the load in the tub... think about how many time that tub changes directions with a full load in it every laundry cycle.  So, don't overload the tub, dummy!  You'll stress your stator!

Put the thing back together; had a heck of a time getting those round metal "washers" on the front/back side of the stator to stand still while fitting the stator to the tub, so I cleaned off all the grease both sides (what a stupid solution to hold the washers on... petroleum grease will invade, inflate and soften plastics!) and used a few spots of hot melt glue to hold each of the ((*^*&% things in place.  My unit has a drip shield above the stator making it really tricky to get the whole thing fitted back on the machine.  First time it was crooked and not pulled up tight to the outer drum... rotor was seizing to stator.  Took it all apart again and carefully got it right.  Torqued the 4 3/8" head stator bolts to 5 NM per spec, and the rotor to 8 NM.  FIred it up, and voila!  On second load now.

I expect it was just a cable connectivity problem.  Glad I caught the stator cracks.  Ho hum.  Good luck. 

[pcmacd]

That's a (11110000) code.

[pcmacd]

On the third or fourth load in repaired GWL11 (Phase six model); all is well. 

Thanks for your insights.

Got a used newer model stator and RPS on order from eBay for cheap.  The current stator may last forever; it is not like it spins or something... it will likely work OK until the cracks cause it to fall apart. 

Below is a link to the stator with stress cracks, before I drilled 1/16" holes either end of the crack to mitigate further propagation.  There is also an image of the newer model that I bought... exactly that one, and the p/n of the RPS.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cktcacstwdxes0u/AACM3c-XqCST1ZAOqHdyTAFMa?dl=0

[J5*]

all the stators crack . they still work, in the last 9 years i have replaced 2 of em 

[Hiroshi]

same thing with the cabrio outrunner motor, seen a lot of cracked, but working, stators