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Found 11 results

  1. I attempted to start my washer and it automatically locks the door, says no spin, and you can hear it make a sound like it's trying to start, almost grinding? Error code e24 comes up which indicates the water pump or signal to the control relay failed. I've checked the filter (remarkably clean for not being touched in 12 years), took apart the drain hoses & cleaned them with a high pressure hose and bleach, and opened what I could near the water pump also with no obstructions. Put it all back together, same issue. This time, the bottom front of the unit was open and the grinding sounded like it cane from the pump. I disconnected the wires on both the pump (this was loose) & panel and then reattached in case the connections weren't good. I've basically decided that the issue lies with the water pump or the control panel. I've ordered a replacement pump that will arrive in a few days. Is there anything else you would recommend trying in the meantime? Thank you!! Brandy Frigidaire Front Loader Washer Model number LTF2940FE0
  2. On my old whirlpool diect drive coupler washer, I have a problem I can't figure out. After the pause from agitating and it starts to drain, it immediately starts spinning while draining. If I hold the tub at the start, it drains normally but when i let it go, it starts spinning. If i hold the tub more than 2 minutes or so, I think I smell a burning odor. I've swapped out the complete transmission and the timer with known good ones from my other machine and the same thing happens. The only thing left that I can think of is the brake but I'm not sure how that is supposed to work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  3. I have a Maytag clothes washer, MVWC400XW3, that occasionally doesn't go into the spin cycle. Most of the time, it works fine and the cycle completes with the clothes well-spun. But we've had 3 occasions now in which the spin cycle didn't seem to run at all, and the contents of the washer are very wet with water dripping when we pull the items out. It seems to happen when there's a heavier load in the washer. Twice we had a load of towels, and once it was a bedspread. But we've also had occasions when a similar load ran through without any problems. I've removed the drive splutch assembly to inspect it, and it doesn't show any signs of wear. The motor doesn't make any unusual sounds when it's in the spin cycle. The door latches when the machine is running. When we discover that a load hasn't been spun, I've been able to turn the dial to the "drain & spin" position, press the Start button, and then the load does spin without any apparent problems. What could be the problem? Does it sound like a shift actuator with an intermittent failure?
  4. My Kenmore Series 70 washer fills, doesn't agitate but will pump out and spin. However, it makes a very loud rattling sound while spinning and will shut down (thermal overload?) and resume some time later. Thinking it's the motor, hoping it's not the transmission. Any thoughts? Further diagnostic steps I can take? Thanks.
  5. Sick Vic

    WPRB9220C0WW

    I do have a basin seal leak but at spin shut down it slows to stop as if no friction what so ever. If I manually start spin cycle and deactivate door switch it stops normally. Can't see how a leak would stop all friction by brake. Hate to dismantle all, replace seal and find it not the cure. Really hate to pay for tranny if not needed. Also motor and outer basket moves back and forth a lot, normal? Any clue's?
  6. Our top loading GE WJRE5550K2WW was making horriblly loud noises on spin cycle. Re-balancing the loads made no difference. So I opened the front expecting to see broken tub guide straps or tub shocks. Nothing broken. Simply, the tub had jumped over the flange that is used for the shipping bar that secures the tub during transit from the factory. Solution: lift the tub sligtly and guide it over that flange (or bracket) back to the center where it belongs. If this happens again, I'm bending those suckers over. They're not needed ever again. Just an FYI to anyone that might benefit from our experience. Enjoy.
  7. This machine occasionally gets stuck in RINSE/SPIN; the last the lights on the right stay on. It drains a bit. It starts to spin up very slowly...and gets to a slow spin speed, stops, repeats ad nauseum. The cover locks successfully. In the past, turning OFF POWER, unplugging for a half hour, rebooting and going directly to RINSE cycle worked. Not today. I've removed the agitator and there is nada there to interfere with anything. I am getting no codes while it is running. Had pump out recently to remove some metal clasp stuck in there. Worked great after that (it was NOISY) but his problem precedes that one. Would it do to go into mtce. mode and check for codes when it gets hung like this? tanks mac
  8. I have an old FWT445GES2 that I have kept running for 17 years because we had cabinetry built around the stacked set so I am stuck with this size unit otherwise I would replace it. My washer does everything it is supposed to except the drum does not spin at all in any direction. I read the following page: At step 4 it says "If the meter reads 0v, check timer contact 11 to 11a" but it does not say what I am looking for across contact 11 to 11a. I get 23v when I check across the contacts while the washer is in fill mode which is when the drum should be spinning. Anyone have any idea what I am looking for?
  9. I just bought a used speed queen CTS99AWN (Manufactured 2006) stackable washer and dryer and it works great up until the rinse and spin cycles. During the fill and wash cycles the drum agitates the clothes 15 seconds clockwise, rests for 9 seconds, and the spins 15 seconds counter-clockwise as it should. However, during the rinse cycles the drum spins for 20-30 seconds at 500rpm and then stops and doesn't spin the rest of the rinse or spin cycle. The rinse function continues as it should, filling with water and pumping it out, followed by the spin cycle with the pump turning on but again it does not spin. The motor leads ohms resistance are within range so the motor is good. Indicator LEDs show NO error codes being generated, the washing machine technically doesn't know that it's not spinning in the rinse and spin cycles. My question is, does the machine control tell the motor control inverter what to do? Is this a problem with my machine control unit or motor control inverter unit? Thank you for any help!-Steven K ps. Belt is in good shape and wiring all looks brand new under the washer. Door switch is fully functional.
  10. I'm having a problem with my LG WM2016CW front load washer. I am receiving the LE error code. I have replaced the sensor (apparently the most likely cause of the LE code) and motor harness and still am having issues. The washer goes through part of a cycle and drum will spin before the error hits. After I replaced the motor harness, I ran an empty load and it made it all the way through. Tried with a small load and it made it through to the rinse cycle before the LE error appeared. Any suggestions would be appreciated
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