Maytag MFI2568AES Test the Evaporator Fan with 9Volt Battery?

[str8maxn]

Hello All, 

Saw the following video on youtube 

 

 

Can the same be done on a Maytag MFI2568AES?

I show J6 would be the connector Pin 1 would be DIG GNG Jump Pin 2 +12V and Pin 5 DC EVAP FAN

Thankyou

 

[Hiroshi]

The fan motor that comes up when I run your model# is not the same as the 4-wire version GE uses, but that is not to say you don't have an interesting idea...

 

 

Edited July 13, 2016 by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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[str8maxn]

I am unable to view the PDF file.. I get a message I can't view this page.

[johntech]

It works fine for me you must need to upgrade your membership. 

[str8maxn]

That must me... I am just an average Joe trying to fix his frig.... Can someone email the PDF to me?

[Hiroshi]

So, your Evap fan is stalled? Best way to test it is through the Service Mode: (this is what was on the PDF)

1. Press and hold Door Alarm button, then
2. Press and hold the Refrigerator Up (+) within three seconds 
3. Release the Door Alarm button, while continuing to hold Refrigerator Up(+) and wait three more seconds...
4. Freezer display will show SE if you have successfully entered Service Mode
5. Press Refrigerator Up (+) to confirm SE entry
6. Left hand Display should then show 101
7. Use Freezer Up (+) and Freezer Down (-) to change number in display
8. Toggle up to 112 with Freezer Up (+) ... this is the Freezer Fan test. Push Refrigerator Up (+) to start fan / (-) to stop fan

[str8maxn]

Hello Hiroshi,

I have tested both fans via the instructions both fans show lower voltage than what is expected. But I don't know what the readings mean.  Lower than expected voltages; does that mean bad fans? Bad mean a bad HV board? Something else?  I don't know how to interpret the readings.  Any help would be great.

 

 

 

 

[str8maxn]

any input from any one else?

 

Fans test with  Lower than expected voltages; does that mean bad fans? Bad mean a bad HV board? Something else? 

 

[str8maxn]

BUMP>>

[Hiroshi]

What is exactly wrong with the fridge? Fan voltages don't mean a thing without a context to put them in, brother!

[str8maxn]

Thank you for the reply Hiroshi.  The freezer is cold but no cold air is coming from the vent located inside freezer and the refrigerator above the freezer is warm.  I can hear the compressor turn on and I can feel the rear fan pushing air (next to the compressor) 

 

[Hiroshi]

Ahhhh, ok. Use the same service mode instructions above, except run service test 121. (instead of 112)

This test will open and close the damper door responsible for allowing the cold air to circulate-

Press Refrigerator Up (+) and Down (-) to toggle the damper: display should show (OP) for open and (CL) for closed.

Damper door can freeze closed or the servo motor can fail, so if it never reads (OP) or just makes noise and doesn't open- you have your answer.

If it opens and you have no airflow, check the air return inlets for blockage- they can cause this also... did the machine sit with the door open overnight before your problem started?

[str8maxn]

Thank you again for the reply Hiroshi..  I will run this test when I get home and report my findings tomorrow.   

 

did the machine sit with the door open overnight before your problem started?   No...   It stop working  with the issue described above.. After unplugging it for a day.  I vacuumed the rear vents and let it defrost.  Plugged it back in and it work well for another 4 weeks before it did the same thing again.  

So, no issue having lower voltage than expected on the fans?

 

[Hiroshi]

Look for frost on the back wall of the freezer too, you may just have a defrost failure, it can cause airflow blockage as well, probably the number 1 cause of it, in fact. Isn't appliance repair fun! 

I don't think that the voltage readings indicate a problem, no.

So run test 121, check for frost on back wall, let us know what you find... Let's Str8slamdunk this thing!

[str8maxn]

GM Hiroshi,

Here are the outputs from test 121 Damper Operation  =  I clicked the (+) button on the Frig side and got the following output:

-OP >> OP

clicked the (+) again and got

-CL>> CL

I did this a few time and got the same out put.

I also ran test 102  Compressor / Condenser Fan test and I could hear the compress click on and off without issue.

Ran test 112  Freezer Fan =  The output is as follows:  HIGH was 7.0 Volts  (per Spec sheet should be between 11.0-14.0 volts)  LOW was 3.8 Volt (per Spec sheet should be between 7.75-8.25 volts)

Ran test 113   Ice Compartment Fan =  The output is as follows:  HIGH was 6.7 Volts  (per Spec sheet should be between 11.0-14.0 volts)  LOW was 2.6 Volt (per Spec sheet should be between 7.75-8.25 volts)

I  could feel cold air coming from each vent although very low flow.   I left the frig on for a couple of hours and the lower freezer was cold although not air was being circulated.

 

"Look for frost on the back wall of the freeze"  -  No frost found.. Frig is currently not up against a wall.  

 

Thanks again for your help...   I am looking forward to  Str8slamdunking this thing!

 

[Hiroshi]

Ok, I should have added: when the control display is reading (OP), make sure the damper door is indeed open, and feel for cold air circulating through it... 

On 7/13/2016 at 11:28 AM, str8maxn said:

"Look for frost on the back wall of the freeze"  -  No frost found.. Frig is currently not up against a wall.  

 

 As far as looking for frost on the back wall of the freezer, I mean INSIDE the freezer- you may have to run a finger across the evaporator cover to detect it, but if there is frost there, it means you may have a defrost failure blocking the air flow...

[str8maxn]

I'll have to check today after I get home.  I didn't even know a damper was until I watched youtube just now.    So, when I run this test again i should feel cold air in the refrigerator section? 

 

 . As far as looking for frost on the back wall of the freezer, I mean INSIDE the freezer- you may have to run a finger across the evaporator cover to detect it, but if there is frost there, it means you may have a defrost failure blocking the air flow...   AHHH>. yes on the inside the was frost and a bit of water on the back wall of the freezer.

[Hiroshi]

Cha-ching! We are on the scent... next step is to initiate a "forced defrost" and observe whether the heater element under the evaporator comes "on" and begins defrosting the blockage...

Forced Defrost:

1.Press and hold Door Alarm button

2.Then, press and hold Refrigerator (-)

3. Release the Door Alarm button and wait 3 seconds

4. "F"   and   "D"  will appear in the display

5. Press Refrigerator (-) again and display should show "sh" for short defrost (do not choose Lg for long!)

6. When "sh" is displayed, press Refrigerator (-) again and display should flash "Fd Sh" to confirm you are in defrost.

The compressor and all fans should cycle off, and the heater should begin to warm up... it may take 5 minutes or so before you can hear the sizzle of water hitting the hot element and there is usually a visible reddish glow from the air slots.

If there is no sizzle, no glow, and no defrosting- you will likely need a new defrost thermostat.

If forced defrost works correctly, when you manually enter it, but there is no defrost during normal operation- you will need a new control board.

 

 

[Hiroshi]

 W10890094 is the main control, I would send it in to a refurbisher if this is the problem... $140 for rebuild (under part# 67006430 )

 

 WP67006387 is the defrost thermostat. hopefully, this is your bad guy...

[str8maxn]

Hiroshi,   I have had the frig unplugged since the issue occurred.  Only plugging it during our trouble shooting.  So, I don't think its a blockage issue unless you thing this type of issue could happen within a 30-90 minute span.  

 

 

 

[Hiroshi]

Well, I didn't know we were looking at a machine that isn't in operation- changes the whole ballgame.

[str8maxn]

I can leave it on if need be. 

 

 

[evaappliance]

Need to run it for a day or so , take a temp reading in both freezer and refrigerator , and start over with troubleshooting with that info ?

[str8maxn]

Will do.

[str8maxn]

Hello Hiroshi and evappliance;   

OK... I have had the frig running for almost two days.  From what I can tell the Freezer is working just fine... I can feel the freezer fan blowing air and it was cold enough to freeze water bottles.  I re ran the 121 test and I can confirm the Damper is working correctly because I was able to remove the unit and see the damper door open and close. While the unit was out, I re ran test 113   Ice Compartment Fan ; and I can also confirm it running.  

So, it would appear that something is not triggering the frig fan to turn on and possibly the damper door to not open and close?

 

Please let me know what you think?

Also, if it turn out to be the HA board.  Is it possible to replace just the broken components vs. replacing the whole thing?