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LRG3095S heat error F11


Eldan

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My LG gas range (LRG3095S) has started to have preheating problems. The temperature on display appears to rise very slowly, and sometimes the oven stops preheating with an 'F11 heat error'. I don't believe there is any issue with the gas supply. While trying a preheat to 400 I found that the temperature was "stuck" at 200 for a while, not rising. I canceled and then immediately restarted a preheat to 400, and the panel displayed 270. I trying to get some insight as to whether this is a sensor or control board issue. Thanks.

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Most common cause of poor heating on gas ovens is a bad ignitor Part number: MEE61841401

Part number: MEE61841401

i would try it on broil and see if it works. That will rule out the sensor. If it works open the floor of the oven and set to bake and see if the ignitor glows. The gas valve will not open if the ignitor is not drawing enough amps. Should be between 3.2 and 3.6 amps. You can confirm with a clamp on amp meter clamped around on of the ignitor wires. If it glows but does not have a high enough amp draw then replace the ignitor. If it does not glow confirm that you have 120vac to the ignitor when set to bake if you have power but no glow replace ignitor. 

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The broiler works, and the oven does start heating every time. It seems to be either reading the temperature wrong or failing to update the temperature reading while preheating.

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Usually a failed Oven Sensor.

Can be tested with a digital multiimeter

Should show 1000 ohms at room temperature (about 77F)

Oven Sensor ohms can also be checked at the Control Panel---although I cannot recall the key dance/sequence (on the road at the moment).

Try pressing the CLEAR key

Then press the BAKE and BROIL keys at the same time

Press the number "3" key and check the display for ohm value.

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When I press bake and broil and hold for 1 second, the display reads "---- 0000 no error." The keypad then doesn't respond to 3 or any other key except clear.

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Ok---checked Service Manual.

Press CLEAR button

Press BAKE and BROIL buttons at the same time

Press BAKE and BROIL buttons a 2nd time

Press BAKE and BROIL buttons a 3rd time

The display should show actual temperature of the oven (for example 77F)

On the left---the ohms value is displayed.

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@john63 I did sort of the average of the two sets of instructions... After pressing BAKE and BROIL the 2nd time the display read "1001 U51 Test Mode" with a scroll. I pressed 3 and the display flashes between the sensor reading and lighting up every lamp in the display. You can also hear a relay clicking each time the display alternates.

The sensor readings were wandering around a bit, The readings were like 98, 100, 101. It is almost 90 degrees inside the oven so I think those readings are within tolerance. I did not see any display of the ohms.

@johntech I'm going to check the igniter current draw.

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41 minutes ago, Eldan said:

The igniter is only drawing 2.7A. Got a new one arriving tomorrow. Thanks to both of you for your help!

There ya go.....in my world and many techs world.......ya gotta keep it the KISS system(keep it simple stupid). Gas stove/oven......one of the first things to check.......the ignitor. I haven't worked on an LG ranges that I'm aware and I'm not aware of any of the fault codes.....but this is THE most common repair.....ignitor........hey, we all stock them.....

It's an easy repair, just remember to unplug the unit before repairing and take your time.  

Thanks for this thread........just in case I run into an LG stove.........and I know I will........probably tomorrow now.......just because of this..........

Hey........happy LG day to all..........

........and I tip a homebrew to all...........

 

 

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2 hours ago, Eldan said:

The igniter is only drawing 2.7A. Got a new one arriving tomorrow. Thanks to both of you for your help!

I agree---replace the Igniter and test preheat function.

 

Here's my concern...

When preheat is selected on an LG range---the temperature count on the Control Panel display will show 100F (until the oven begins to exceed that temperature)

If the oven does *not* reach 150F within 5 minutes---an "F11" error will be triggered.

In your original post---the oven temperature displayed 200F and stalled on the first attempt to preheat the oven.

After canceling and resetting preheat for a second time---the oven reached 270F.

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1 hour ago, john63 said:

I agree---replace the Igniter and test preheat function.

 

Here's my concern...

When preheat is selected on an LG range---the temperature count on the Control Panel display will show 100F (until the oven begins to exceed that temperature)

If the oven does *not* reach 150F within 5 minutes---an "F11" error will be triggered.

In your original post---the oven temperature displayed 200F and stalled on the first attempt to preheat the oven.

After canceling and resetting preheat for a second time---the oven reached 270F.

I know......but an inexpensive part replacement would be......the ignitor....I caught the same thing you did....might not be the ignitor, but it's at least a good possibility. If that's not the problem then we've at least eliminated that from the flow chart......

.....and I don't mind being wrong........heck, I'm wrong all the time.......at least that's what the ex always said...............

............

Now I say.............

 

 

........rock~n~roll..............

 

anyway.............

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Replace the ignitor and you're probably good to go.........

 

If not........let us know.............

 

 

and rock~n~roll...........

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, john63 said:

I agree---replace the Igniter and test preheat function.

 

Here's my concern...

When preheat is selected on an LG range---the temperature count on the Control Panel display will show 100F (until the oven begins to exceed that temperature)

If the oven does *not* reach 150F within 5 minutes---an "F11" error will be triggered.

In your original post---the oven temperature displayed 200F and stalled on the first attempt to preheat the oven.

After canceling and resetting preheat for a second time---the oven reached 270F.

It's even stranger than that. After canceling at 200 and restarting immediately the oven was at 270. I guess that could be an erratic sensor but the diagnostic showed it was actually on the money. I ordered a new sensor just in case because they aren't expensive. But I think this strangeness could just be caused by the way the controls work, like maybe the display keeps a running average to smooth out the number so it's not seen fluctuating, and restarting the preheat resets the average.

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Good job.

Next step is to check cooking consistency.

Try something simple---like a frozen pizza. Usually 425F for 12 to 15 minutes

If cooking results are inconsistent (undercooking/overcooking)---replace the Oven Sensor

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This thread was of great help.  Our LRG3097ST was not consistently starting up the oven, showed the F11 error, was told "it only worked if a range burner was on first".  Weird.  Found service manual at  https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/142567-2.pdf    which helped with disassembly.  "Broil+Bake" pressed for 3 seconds, do that twice, then "3" (multiple tries, it's kind of flaky) showed an oven temp of 120F since it was still warm (but did not show ohms), plus "1234 5678" and some other gibberish, an ohmmeter on the oven temp sensor showed 1110 ohms, which further verified that it was OK.  Clamp ammeter on one (either one) oven igniter wire showed 2.7Amps, exactly the same as reported by john63 above which seemed suspicious, perhaps he had found some other fault?  But measured oven igniter at 370 ohms, broiler igniter is identical but measured 260 ohms.  Swapped them and now the oven works fine (broiler can wait a week for a new part to arrive).  So oven igniter when new is 260 ohms (cold) and around 3.4 Amps, as it ages the resistance rises to 370 ohms for a current draw of 2.7 Amps which is the threshold at which the controller refuses to feed gas to the oven.

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 "oven igniter when new is 260 ohms (cold) and around 3.4 Amps"

At 120 volts AC, a new oven igniter must be 120/3.4 = 35.3 ohms when hot.   A surprising difference from the cold resistance of 260 ohms.

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Hey All,  

I have had the same problem with our LG multiple times.  I have come to the conclusion it is poor insulation of the sensor/ignitor wiring.  Every time my wife runs the “Self Clean” cycle, which pushes hi heat, we end up with a blown ignitor or sensor shortly thereafter.  I suggest putting some elbow grease into the unit and skip the self clean.  

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