GE Monogram ZISW420DRA freezer too cold fridge warm

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

You can email me at jimfwong@gmail.com

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

I did some more disassembly.  Is the foam in the following picture what you removed?

 

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

Well,  I got nothing to lose.  So is this what you are talking about?

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

Well,  I got nothing to lose.  So is this what you are talking about?

[Jimmyw]

On 10/9/2024 at 10:59 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Yeah I don't a notification either when you post, but just happened to look. I hate to jinks myself, but I must say I've been very happy so far with our fridge since I last posted in July - like 2 months ago. And working through what I consider the worst time of the year due to the high humidity. So not quite enough time to fully claim success, but looking good so far.

I really think you should go into the freezer roof section and open up that passage way between the freezer and refrigerator sections so the air flow isn't so constricted. I opened it up but cutting out some of the styrofoam that partially blocks the vent. Re-read posts from 2 months ago and hopefully what I wrote gives you enough of a guide.

I too was like you. I was at my last straw for this fridge. Then I thought okay attack with some brute force. What's the worst that could happen. Since the return passage way kept getting blocked - open it up.

Again just so it is clear. We're talking about the passage way that returns warm air from the fridge side to the freezer side. When that warm moist air hits the cold in the freezer side it condenses right there in the passage way. And note there is no damper in this return passage way. The cold air enters the fridge section from the freezer section using a different passage way (in the rear of the compartments)  - which does have a damper.

Anyway - that's my story. I'd be interested what you do.

Oh, and the thermistors, there is a self test you can run described in the service manual.

https://visualizador.serviplus.com.mx/datos_pt/refr/manuales/ServiceManual_31-9091.pdf

I don't think your problem is the thermistors. If they normally report and control the fridge when the vent isn't blocked - they're likely just fine.

Let me know

Well,  I got nothing to lose.  So is this what you are talking about?

[Mr. mizer]

Thought I replied to Jimmyw question here in the forum. Jimmy and I have been direct emailing on this subject. For the benefit of anyone who may read this, the answer is YES. And based on the picture appears Jimmy has already broken out the styrofoam to open the return vent up.

And an update on my fridge: I can report as of today it is still behaving nicely. No issues. More time needed. 

[Jimmyw]

I won't let this fridge beat me.  It froze up again and I ended up opening it up before it defrosted.  There was a nice little ice blockage preventing air flow.  I replaced the icing kit with the heated drain pan since that was a block of ice as well.  Let see if it holds up. 

 

 

[RickyM]

On 11/4/2024 at 8:43 AM, Mr. mizer said:

Thought I replied to Jimmyw question here in the forum. Jimmy and I have been direct emailing on this subject. For the benefit of anyone who may read this, the answer is YES. And based on the picture appears Jimmy has already broken out the styrofoam to open the return vent up.

And an update on my fridge: I can report as of today it is still behaving nicely. No issues. More time needed. 

It's been 4 months since your last update.  How is your fridge behaving?  I just broke out the styrofoam to open the return vent up and are waiting to see if it is helping.  Got a question for you -- how often did you experience the problem before you opened up the return vent?

[Mr. mizer]

21 hours ago, RickyM said:

It's been 4 months since your last update.  How is your fridge behaving?  I just broke out the styrofoam to open the return vent up and are waiting to see if it is helping.  Got a question for you -- how often did you experience the problem before you opened up the return vent?

Looking back through posts, it looks like my last 'episode' was in the July timeframe. So it has been working for good 7 months now.

I'll recount:

The frequency would vary somewhat. This fridge is pushing 20 yrs old now. It seemed 15 years ago I could go a year or more, maybe even 2 yrs. And honestly I just don't remember too many episodes when it was brand new. But starting about 10 yrs ago it became more and more frequent. Sometimes only lasting a few months, and never going more than a year. Symptoms have always been the same - the freezer is negative cold temperatures and the fresh food side temperature would begin moving up until after a few days it would be 47 degrees. And the compressor would run non-stop. After years of emptying and unplugging, testing components and not finding anything definitive, letting it completely melt for a few days, then plugging back in to see it work great again - I finally said something has to change.

So I started to take more and more apart, thinking either I fix it or buy a new one. That's how I discovered the ice blockage. And then the symptoms made sense. So without really knowing I took the following steps:

1. Opened up that "return air passage" on the freezer side since it seemed somewhat blocked by Styrofoam. Jimmy's pictures show it perfectly. I still have all the top of the freezer section parts installed.

2. Removed the top lighting panel in the fresh food side so I could see the other side of the passage. Does this possibly help air move through the passage?

3. Replaced both door seals thinking too much moisture was getting in. Which sort of goes along with the story that in the early days I don't remember fighting this problem much, but as the door seals decayed they didn't work as well.

4. Taped off the ice dispenser hole the freezer door. I felt like that was another leak point. Also removed the ice dispenser since we didn't really use it.

I can't say which of these steps was the fix. But so far so good. The temperatures track well, and the compressor shuts off when we not actively using. I'm afraid to disassemble to inspect to see if there is any ice forming in the passage.

So that's my story.

So guys, keep me posted on how it goes.

[RickyM]

1 hour ago, Mr. mizer said:

Looking back through posts, it looks like my last 'episode' was in the July timeframe. So it has been working for good 7 months now.

I'll recount:

The frequency would vary somewhat. This fridge is pushing 20 yrs old now. It seemed 15 years ago I could go a year or more, maybe even 2 yrs. And honestly I just don't remember too many episodes when it was brand new. But starting about 10 yrs ago it became more and more frequent. Sometimes only lasting a few months, and never going more than a year. Symptoms have always been the same - the freezer is negative cold temperatures and the fresh food side temperature would begin moving up until after a few days it would be 47 degrees. And the compressor would run non-stop. After years of emptying and unplugging, testing components and not finding anything definitive, letting it completely melt for a few days, then plugging back in to see it work great again - I finally said something has to change.

So I started to take more and more apart, thinking either I fix it or buy a new one. That's how I discovered the ice blockage. And then the symptoms made sense. So without really knowing I took the following steps:

1. Opened up that "return air passage" on the freezer side since it seemed somewhat blocked by Styrofoam. Jimmy's pictures show it perfectly. I still have all the top of the freezer section parts installed.

2. Removed the top lighting panel in the fresh food side so I could see the other side of the passage. Does this possibly help air move through the passage?

3. Replaced both door seals thinking too much moisture was getting in. Which sort of goes along with the story that in the early days I don't remember fighting this problem much, but as the door seals decayed they didn't work as well.

4. Taped off the ice dispenser hole the freezer door. I felt like that was another leak point. Also removed the ice dispenser since we didn't really use it.

I can't say which of these steps was the fix. But so far so good. The temperatures track well, and the compressor shuts off when we not actively using. I'm afraid to disassemble to inspect to see if there is any ice forming in the passage.

So that's my story.

So guys, keep me posted on how it goes.

Thank you Mr. mizer!  I'm so glad your fridge is working great, and that gives me a sense of hope!

On Monday, March 10, I broke out the styrofoam and removed the ice buildup around the return vent without a full defrost.  So far it has been working great.  My problem was that I saw water dripping along the side of the fridge close to the freezer side. Initially, I thought the drain tube that is connected to the icing kit was leaking, but it was condensation from the return air passage after all.  A few days later, I started to notice the fridge temp was hovering around 47 degrees.  That is when I started searching and found your posts here.  

I have couple more questions for you: 

1) For #2, how did you remove the top lighting panel in the fridge side?  I removed the cover, 4 screws, and the water filter but could not get the panel out to have a clear view of the return vent from the fridge side.

2) When you replaced your door seals, how did you reshape the seals.  I bought new seals couple years ago but could not installed them because the seals close to the hinge side needed to be reshaped for the doors to be able to close.

Thanks again!

[Mr. mizer]

That panel will come out but I think I had to force it some. There are two tabs in the rear of that panel that slide into the back of the fridge, and hold that panel back edge up. Amazingly I did not break them. What I think I did was to cut some of the adhesive on the front control panel to get it loosened up. Then forcing it out of the way a bit the lighting panel front edge came loose - then the whole panel could drop down and slide out. I probably would remove power first since you end up torqueing on control panel somewhat. I think they assembled it lighting panel first, then adhesive the front control panel in.

Not sure if its worth doing, but sure is interesting to see the fridge side of the vent. Its nothing really, just a rectangular hole. Not sure if having the panel out helps the 'problem', but maybe. Actually now that I think about it, the fridge side of the vent might be an easy way to use a heat gun to melt the blockage if it forms, there is pretty good access.

 

On the seals, I assume you mean how they're all folded up due to shipping.

I used a big rectangular commercial kitchen pan - spans across two burners. Heated up a bunch of hot water and made a big mess in the kitchen. But it worked and most all of the creases came out by moving the seals though the hot water section at a time. Then laying them out on the floor to cool. Water everywhere.

And yeah when you first install them the doors had trouble closing, but they got much better with a few days time. You know when the doors close, the unit sort of sucks the doors closed like with a vacuum, after the new seals were in the time for that process to complete was much quicker, like only 2 or 3 seconds. So I'm sure they were a big improvement when it comes to sealing.

Also on my fridge door, I noticed where the seal didn't seal well to the frame along the lower areas when the door closed, so I backed the seal out of its holding channel a bit to get better seal. Particularly the bottom corner. I just checked it is still out of the channel like I put it so I guess it will stay that way.

Just a thought, but it may be the door seals were what fixed the problem by reducing entrance of warm moist air, maybe? Also that opening in the freezer door for the ice maker can't help, I suspect they leak somehow (I taped that off from the inside).

There you go. Let us know how it goes.