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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a GE Profile DPSE810GG0WT Gas Dryer with an intermittent no heat problem.

I have continuity checked the thermostats which seem fine and the resistance on the thermistors matches the listing on the schematic as well.

Flame sensor and coils looked good as well but I found some reports of coils checking fine when cold but failing when they heat up.  So I replaced the coils and for good measure really cleaned out the exhaust.

The first load dried fine but when I go to dry another I get no heat or the heat drops out shortly after starting.

When I watch the operation I see a yellow glow I believe is the igniter that stays on way longer than I think it should.  If it cools all the way down, the yellow glow is on for about 10-15 seconds and then with a mirror, I can see the blue gas flame.  

I'm going for the flame sensor next but looking for confirmation.  Only other thing is the gas valve which is much more expensive...

Thanks,

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Top Posters In This Topic

  • ndzied1

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  • Hiroshi

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  • Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted (edited)

You need gas solenoid coils... they mount on top of the gas valve. Use part # 5303931775 and replace both coils being careful not to lose the steel sleeve that goes on the shaft of the booster/holding coil side of the valve.

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/RepairHelpVideoLayer?videoIdCSV=685%2c141%2c3248

Follow the video, but change BOTH of the coils.

Edited by Hiroshi
Posted

Thank you Hiroshi.  I mentioned above that I have already changed both coils.  That was my first thought.  The new and old ones had the same resistance but I changed them with new anyway. I'm thinking of checking the flame sensor by putting it near a propane torch flame to see if it changes state properly after it has heated up.

Posted

Then it is short cycling, test it with the exhaust detached...

Posted

Just wondering.  If it was short cycling, would the igniter stay on for 5 minutes without the gas valve opening?  That is what I am seeing.

Posted

If the flame sensor is failing to open then the ignitor will stay on till the unit turns off and gas valve will never open - the process of the flame sensor detecting the flame and opening it's contacts removes the ignitor from the circuit and allows the secondary coil to open and gas to flow and hit hot ignitor to light flame.

You can pull the two wires that go to the flame sensor off the sensor and pull then to the front where you can access them, hook them together and start the dryer.   Once the ingnitor is glowing for about 12 seconds, pull the two wires apart and the flame should ignite and burn until the cycling t-stat is satisfied or it short cycles on a hi-limit from possibly bad air flow.

Posted

Flame sensor is a continuity test, remove one of the leads and test it that way too... If you don't hear the "clack" of the valve opening the rest of the way and it has new coils, you've got it in a corner.

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