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Found 15 results

  1. Hello all, The nuts and bolts: Looking for how to enter test mode on a Samsung DV219AEW/XAA. Can't find it on the web. There are no error codes showing at the moment, but although it lets you input a cycle (and lights up as if it is starting) there is no heat, the drum doesn't spin, and after counting down two minute into the cycle, the timer drops down to 1 minute. I need the entry method to start the diagnostic test, and the error code table, which I know is only in the service manual, but I'm not qualified to be an appliance tech so I can't sign up for a membership. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. The long version: Sometime lurker, this is my first post. Since I may be here more often, I'll go ahead and introduce myself. I'm the wife of a supposed-to-be-retired electrician who is also a do-anything kind of guy. He grew up in the trades and was on job sites since he was around 8 years old, so he's got a lot of experience and, as we privately like to call it, "little known facts of useless information" in his head. Though, of course, they aren't useless at all - he can figure out just about anything. (I'm not bragging - trust me he has his flaws, as do I, LOL- but he really is a very, very talented handy guy, as well as a kick butt electrician.) Although he is primarily an electrician, he is often asked to do other things, and appliance repair comes up relatively often. Usually it's after he's on site for something else, and the customer says, "Hey, I also have xxxx, do you know anything about working on that?" I am what we jokingly call tech support. I scour the web for diagnostic tests, service manuals, and any other info I can find. I've logged countless hours on the web on various electrical and appliance forums looking up problems, solutions, printing out schematics, etc. (You'd be surprised at the level of detail involved with old electrical panels, for example.) With appliances, from research I'm usually able to narrow the problems down, and predict parts needed, though not always, because sometimes it's wiring issues and of course he needs to do that on site. In any case, I'm his right hand on stuff. It's my job to get him the info he needs to start diagnosing, or go one better and point him in the most likely direction, saving him some time. In some cases we do tell the customer to call an actual appliance repair tech, and in rare cases, to not bother repairing, and to buy a replacement. I'm not in a position to do the coursework here, but I love the concept and execution of this site. If my husband were younger, I'm sure he would do the courses, since he already has the electrical knowledge as well as general "how things work" knowledge...but he's actually supposed to be retired, LOL.
  2. Hello all, I have a 10 year old WOLF SO30 S/F single oven that wont go over 250Deg. and the broiler does not work at all. I have reviewed a like post with the same oven and a like concern but the solder connectors on the DLB relay are ok. There is 120vac on one end of the relay and when the broiler/oven is turned on the output of the relay is also 120vac.( the other post states there should be 220vac?) There is power through the thermal switch and back up to the relay for the broiler and all the rest of the relays. The relay for the broiler is felt and heard to click. In fact there is power to all the elements and figure the relay just completes the circuit. The control panel passes all the functional tests in the manual and there are no current fault codes although there has been an intermittent code for "relay stuck" The relay board was replaced in 2016 by the wolf service tech for another problem that was not apparent to us and was was done under partial goodwill. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. LJMark
  3. If someone could please help me, It would be greatly appreciated. I have a Kenmore 700 series dryer, mod#110,68102310. The dryer turns on and runs for about two minutes then shuts off with error code F3 E2. The thermister and fuse both are new due to neither one having continuity when checked so i replaced them both. Here is where it gets good, the heating element is not coming on. I checked continuity on it and havew about 12.3 ohms. Also i have 120v on BOTH pins. I put my meter ground to the casing and checked each while on. 120 on each...240 on both. HOW CAN THIS BE? I am seriously about to take my frustrations out on this thing. I read that the F3E2 was for the moisture sensor, so i checked it. No short found. No continuity.Someone PLEASE help . Thank you in advance, C.J.
  4. I am trying to troubleshoot our thermador RED30v all electric oven. The bake element is not heating, the broil will warm slightly for the pre-heat function but zero heat on the bake. The bake element tests about 30ohms. The Red wire from the back of the controller mark BA on the controller has 240 when in bake and there is 240v at the bake element. It seems there is no return path for the circuit. Can someone help me understand this circuit? With the oven off, I did a continuity test from the element to the controller, the red wire is good but I cannot determine where the other side of the bake element goes. Both wires are red at the element. Is the return path through one of the two relays? I've heard about these relays failing causing this same no Bake element heat symptom. I am mostly looking at the BR,BA,L1,COM and neutral pins. The thick black wire on post L1 seems to be power in, the thick red wire on post BA seems to be power out (energized when bake is on) on has continuity to the back element on one side. I cannot find a wire with continuity to the other side of the back element which is confusing me. Any help on this is much appreciated. Thank you. (
  5. Hello,Gurus. I bought this dryer used and thought it would be an easy fix, thermal cutoff fuse tested bad so I replaced it. I then got the dryer to run and ignitor to light for a few seconds, but no gas. So I replaced the Two solenoids ( whirlpool sealed factory replacements) Same deal...no gas . Instead of a click when I turn the dryer on and heat is called for, I get a buzzing sound. The ignitor and switch both test out ok. What gives? I want to be sure it's the gas valve before I scrap this thing. I've never seen one go bad, but I think I've eliminated every other option. This particular dryer requires the whole valve assembly with pipe attached. I'm Not dropping the 200$ if that's it. Hopefully I missed something else....
  6. Whirlpool Dryer GEW9868KQ3 - dryer turns but no heat. Sensor stays on "Sensing" for 10 minutes +/- and then machine shuts off. Lint screen inside and out cleaned. Next step?
  7. I have a GE Profile DPSE810GG0WT Gas Dryer with an intermittent no heat problem. I have continuity checked the thermostats which seem fine and the resistance on the thermistors matches the listing on the schematic as well. Flame sensor and coils looked good as well but I found some reports of coils checking fine when cold but failing when they heat up. So I replaced the coils and for good measure really cleaned out the exhaust. The first load dried fine but when I go to dry another I get no heat or the heat drops out shortly after starting. When I watch the operation I see a yellow glow I believe is the igniter that stays on way longer than I think it should. If it cools all the way down, the yellow glow is on for about 10-15 seconds and then with a mirror, I can see the blue gas flame. I'm going for the flame sensor next but looking for confirmation. Only other thing is the gas valve which is much more expensive... Thanks,
  8. I have a GE electric dryer, model number DPGT750EC1PL that is not heating and the blower motor is not turning on. The heating element, high-limit thermostats, and cycling thermostat are all good, but the dryer dryer does not heat up. After checking the element and thermostats for continuity, reassembling the dryer, turning it on, and checking the exhaust duct for heat, that's when I noticed that the blower motor was not operating. The drive motor turns. The power outlet and cord are both good. I'm wondering if the problem is the dryer's control board. Any help you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated.
  9. The bake and broil do not heat up. I have 120 to ground on both incoming feeds to the oven and 230 line to line. When I set to broil or bake I measure 120 to ground on both elements no matter what I try either broil or bake. Checking the voltage on the control board all have 120 to ground as well. When using broil I thought only the top heating element should get voltage but both elements do. Same when I push bake. I have 120 on both sides of each element to ground. However even though both have volts neither gets hot. The oven will get a little warm but none of the elements turn red or orange and can be held. When I shut off whichever mode either bake or broil voltage goes to zero so I know the relays are working. I also measured ohms at the temp probe unplugging it from the controller and it measures correctly. About 1090 ohms at about 72 to 75F. Resistance on the broil element is 22 ohms and resistance on the bake element is 19.6 ohms. Any idea why the elements will not get hot? Im thinking something in control board but again there is voltag going to the elements. Both elements no matter if I try bake or broil. Any advice is much appreciated.
  10. Join the Samurai on this Samsung electric dryer service call and learn how to troubleshoot a no-heat complaint from the control board, without having to tear apart the whole dryer, by using the schematic and strategic electrical tests. Work smarter, not harder! Learn how to troubleshoot appliances like a real technician at http://mastersamuraitech.com Professional Appliantologist members here at Appliantology should watch my webinar recording on troubleshooting this same problem using live voltage tests for deeper understanding of troubleshooting techniques
  11. I have a 18 year old Jenn-Air electric oven, model W132W, series 23. Worked fine yesterday, but today no heat in any mode (bake, broil, clean). Electronic controls, display, fan all work fine, just no heat. I know the first thing to check is the resistance of the elements, but I find it hard to believe that both elements went bad at the same time. I'm thinking it's something common to both circuits. So, once I open this up and don't find any obvious problems (charred wires, loose wires, burnt limit switches, etc.), what is the best way to troubleshoot my little issue? So, my first thought is maybe one of the two limit switches (WP7403P316-60). My understanding is one is on the the bake element circuit, while the other is on both circuits. Can anyone confirm that? If one (or both) were bad, would the electronic display and controls still have power? What resistance should I see when the switch is at room temp? Is it OK to just connect the limit switch wires together (bypassing the switch) as a troubleshooting method (making sure of course that they are wrapped in electrical tape so that don't touch anything)? My next thought is the temp sensor (12001656). I understand I should see resistance of 1080-1100 at room temperature. Is this common to both elements? My last question is why the Whirlpool limit switch, item # WP7403P316-60, costs $60+!!! Some sites want $80 for it! I have bought other limit switches (for a microwave) for $10. What is so special about this Whirlpool part?? Is there an alternate part I could buy if it turns out it's bad? Thank you for any input.
  12. Hi pros and expertsOur dryer stopped heating yesterday after 10 years of reliable use. So I guess it's about due for something I guess. I ran through the diagnostic procedures outlined in the manual, results as followsElectric control & Temperature sensor - 19:FO (expected 18:FO - what does this indicate?)Moisture value - rapidly climbs from 64 to 237Motor and heater - 22Passed all door open tests I have the dryer taken apart ready for inspection with the main board plugged back in for testing. before I start testing components with the multimeter I wanted to do a quick visual inspection to see if the igniter (is this what is sometimes known as the glow coil?) glows properly. So first I need to know how to bypass the door switch so the dryer will run. Can you please explain the procedure for that.Also, when the main panel is turned on, the CHECK FILTER light blinks. Is the filter the mesh screen that lives inside the front of the door, that you clean before every load? Or is there an internal filter somewhere? Why would this light blink, the filter is clean and its housing is mostly free of lint too. Thanks in advance for your patience. I will certainly need some hand holding for this little project. I managed to fix the washing machine last year so I'm capable of getting there slowly with a bit of help. I'm unemployed so if I can fix this without calling a service tech that will keep the wife happy for a while
  13. Betty Anne

    Kenmore 110.61502011

    I have replaced the following parts: thermal cut off fuse kit, high limit thermostat and operating thermostat. Heating element tested good, still no heat. What to do next? Everything else seems fine,
  14. Hello all, just came across this wonderful sight and very much appreciate any insight you might be able to offer in advance. I'm getting no heat on a BOSCH DRYER MODEL WTA 351OUC 82/1 I have verified 220V to the fuses. Fuses look fine and have continuity. Just replaced the heating element (265676) which includes a new NTC heating element (163297) and temp switch (170857) but after dong so still getting no heat.The drum and fan spin fine. What should I check next?? I'm thinking next step is the motor (141855) may not be delivering power to the heating elements. I cant find any information on line on how to test it. Does it have a centrifigal switch? Would I need to verify continuity on the power connections with this switch engaged?
  15. Tech sheet with dryer is ineligible, may I have one. Dryer runs but no heat. Fuses & thermostats good. Suspect timer.
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