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Found 11 results

  1. Whirlpool Dryer GEW9868KQ3 - dryer turns but no heat. Sensor stays on "Sensing" for 10 minutes +/- and then machine shuts off. Lint screen inside and out cleaned. Next step?
  2. I have a GE Profile DPSE810GG0WT Gas Dryer with an intermittent no heat problem. I have continuity checked the thermostats which seem fine and the resistance on the thermistors matches the listing on the schematic as well. Flame sensor and coils looked good as well but I found some reports of coils checking fine when cold but failing when they heat up. So I replaced the coils and for good measure really cleaned out the exhaust. The first load dried fine but when I go to dry another I get no heat or the heat drops out shortly after starting. When I watch the operation I see a yellow glow I believe is the igniter that stays on way longer than I think it should. If it cools all the way down, the yellow glow is on for about 10-15 seconds and then with a mirror, I can see the blue gas flame. I'm going for the flame sensor next but looking for confirmation. Only other thing is the gas valve which is much more expensive... Thanks,
  3. I have a GE electric dryer, model number DPGT750EC1PL that is not heating and the blower motor is not turning on. The heating element, high-limit thermostats, and cycling thermostat are all good, but the dryer dryer does not heat up. After checking the element and thermostats for continuity, reassembling the dryer, turning it on, and checking the exhaust duct for heat, that's when I noticed that the blower motor was not operating. The drive motor turns. The power outlet and cord are both good. I'm wondering if the problem is the dryer's control board. Any help you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated.
  4. The bake and broil do not heat up. I have 120 to ground on both incoming feeds to the oven and 230 line to line. When I set to broil or bake I measure 120 to ground on both elements no matter what I try either broil or bake. Checking the voltage on the control board all have 120 to ground as well. When using broil I thought only the top heating element should get voltage but both elements do. Same when I push bake. I have 120 on both sides of each element to ground. However even though both have volts neither gets hot. The oven will get a little warm but none of the elements turn red or orange and can be held. When I shut off whichever mode either bake or broil voltage goes to zero so I know the relays are working. I also measured ohms at the temp probe unplugging it from the controller and it measures correctly. About 1090 ohms at about 72 to 75F. Resistance on the broil element is 22 ohms and resistance on the bake element is 19.6 ohms. Any idea why the elements will not get hot? Im thinking something in control board but again there is voltag going to the elements. Both elements no matter if I try bake or broil. Any advice is much appreciated.
  5. Join the Samurai on this Samsung electric dryer service call and learn how to troubleshoot a no-heat complaint from the control board, without having to tear apart the whole dryer, by using the schematic and strategic electrical tests. Work smarter, not harder! Learn how to troubleshoot appliances like a real technician at http://mastersamuraitech.com Professional Appliantologist members here at Appliantology should watch my webinar recording on troubleshooting this same problem using live voltage tests for deeper understanding of troubleshooting techniques
  6. I have a 18 year old Jenn-Air electric oven, model W132W, series 23. Worked fine yesterday, but today no heat in any mode (bake, broil, clean). Electronic controls, display, fan all work fine, just no heat. I know the first thing to check is the resistance of the elements, but I find it hard to believe that both elements went bad at the same time. I'm thinking it's something common to both circuits. So, once I open this up and don't find any obvious problems (charred wires, loose wires, burnt limit switches, etc.), what is the best way to troubleshoot my little issue? So, my first thought is maybe one of the two limit switches (WP7403P316-60). My understanding is one is on the the bake element circuit, while the other is on both circuits. Can anyone confirm that? If one (or both) were bad, would the electronic display and controls still have power? What resistance should I see when the switch is at room temp? Is it OK to just connect the limit switch wires together (bypassing the switch) as a troubleshooting method (making sure of course that they are wrapped in electrical tape so that don't touch anything)? My next thought is the temp sensor (12001656). I understand I should see resistance of 1080-1100 at room temperature. Is this common to both elements? My last question is why the Whirlpool limit switch, item # WP7403P316-60, costs $60+!!! Some sites want $80 for it! I have bought other limit switches (for a microwave) for $10. What is so special about this Whirlpool part?? Is there an alternate part I could buy if it turns out it's bad? Thank you for any input.
  7. Hi pros and expertsOur dryer stopped heating yesterday after 10 years of reliable use. So I guess it's about due for something I guess. I ran through the diagnostic procedures outlined in the manual, results as followsElectric control & Temperature sensor - 19:FO (expected 18:FO - what does this indicate?)Moisture value - rapidly climbs from 64 to 237Motor and heater - 22Passed all door open tests I have the dryer taken apart ready for inspection with the main board plugged back in for testing. before I start testing components with the multimeter I wanted to do a quick visual inspection to see if the igniter (is this what is sometimes known as the glow coil?) glows properly. So first I need to know how to bypass the door switch so the dryer will run. Can you please explain the procedure for that.Also, when the main panel is turned on, the CHECK FILTER light blinks. Is the filter the mesh screen that lives inside the front of the door, that you clean before every load? Or is there an internal filter somewhere? Why would this light blink, the filter is clean and its housing is mostly free of lint too. Thanks in advance for your patience. I will certainly need some hand holding for this little project. I managed to fix the washing machine last year so I'm capable of getting there slowly with a bit of help. I'm unemployed so if I can fix this without calling a service tech that will keep the wife happy for a while
  8. I have replaced the following parts: thermal cut off fuse kit, high limit thermostat and operating thermostat. Heating element tested good, still no heat. What to do next? Everything else seems fine,
  9. Hello all, just came across this wonderful sight and very much appreciate any insight you might be able to offer in advance. I'm getting no heat on a BOSCH DRYER MODEL WTA 351OUC 82/1 I have verified 220V to the fuses. Fuses look fine and have continuity. Just replaced the heating element (265676) which includes a new NTC heating element (163297) and temp switch (170857) but after dong so still getting no heat.The drum and fan spin fine. What should I check next?? I'm thinking next step is the motor (141855) may not be delivering power to the heating elements. I cant find any information on line on how to test it. Does it have a centrifigal switch? Would I need to verify continuity on the power connections with this switch engaged?
  10. Tech sheet with dryer is ineligible, may I have one. Dryer runs but no heat. Fuses & thermostats good. Suspect timer.
  11. The heating element in this unit was fried for sure I visually inspected the coils and they were damaged. There was a nail stuck in i causing the damage. I Checked for proper voltage at the heating element and was only getting 120.00. I put in a new control board and the unit now turns on but no heat. The timer counts down but it's not heating. Please help as these Bosch parts are expensive.