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Showing results for tags 'gas valve'.
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jjStar posted a topic in DIY Appliance Repair HelpMy Goodman furnace (GMP 100-5) usually give me some issues every year and I managed to learn/fix them during the past years. This time, I thought I've narrowed this No-Flame issue down to a bad gas valve issue: I got 24V on a multimeter after the Inducer was running, and the Ignitor was red-hot. (the operation sequence) -- I concluded the gas valve was bad So, I ordered a White-Rodgers 36G22-254 gas valve and replaced it. no flame. I guess I got a defective one. ordered another one from a different seller... but still no flame... Any Idea? (yes, I have made sure there is gas flowing into the gas value: disconnect the gas valve and turn on and off the gas shut valve quickly. there's gas coming out with "pshhhhh" sound ) (some more details -- actually, this is my 2nd White-Rodgers: I changed the existing Goodman gas valve 2 years back and fixed the issue. And this time, I also did some more researches before ordering the new White-Rodgers gas value -- I disconnect the wires going to the gas valve, and measured the voltage on the wires. Yes, it had the 24V AC reading after the Ignitor was red-hot. Also, I measured the resistance of "the gas valve coil" - I guess it should have ohms, but I got a open circuit reading on both new White-Rodgers valves... it looks like some new-type gas valve wouldn't get 300~2000 ohms How to test the gas valve on a gas furnace with an ohmmeter)
Have a Bosch Natural Gas Dryer, Model #WTVC6530UC/11. NG Burner Assy won't light not will the igniter glow. Was working intermittently until last week, now won't light or glow to start at all. Dryer powers up and tumbles on all modes. . . . just will not heat up. When it WAS heating, it would often click rapidly, like an electrical switch/relay cycling like 5-10 times per second. It almost sounded like a bucket of BB's rattling around from upstairs. It was definitly an electrical cycling sound. Would last maybe 2-4 sec. max and stop. - took apart and checked for lint blockages in pipe and exhaust - all clean - thoroughly cleaned lint filter, lint filter area, and cleaned off moisture sensor with alcohol. - this exact same issue cropped up about 2 years ago. Ended up replacing the gas valve/burner assy #00497969 and igniter #00491648 - this solved the problem of the dryer not heating. But, the rapid electrical cycling during operation would still happen randomly during operation. The dryer would continue to work. . . . but that cycling noise just wasn't right. - started to happen more often lately. Dryer wouldn't work for a few loads, then would randomly start drying/heating again. Tried unplugging the unit. . . .sometimes that would help, but don't know if it was simply coincidence. Now, the dryer hasn't heated up in over a week. Have tried every cycle and trick, but can't get it to light off. - 2 years ago, had checked and tried jumpering all sensors - lint sensor, moisture sensor, hi-limit sensor, flame sensor, NTC, but was unable to get dryer to work when I did that, so replaced gas valve and igniter, which solved the immediate issue of dryer not heating. Has anyone ever experienced this rapid electrical cycling noise before? Assume it's a sensor sending conflicting signals and rapidly changing from open-to-closed, but perhaps it happened so fast, the burners stayed lit? What sensor or device would cause such a noise? Could this "bad" sensor have caused the gas valve to fail again? I thought this dryer had a diagnostic mode. I would think with all of these sensors and built-in diagnostics it could tell you what failed, or at least have provided an "error code" when the gas valve won't light. Why does it have this diagnostic system, if it can't even tell it's not operating/heating up? Does anyone know how to access the diagnostics on the machine, and how I could check for a possible failed part or error code?? Are there any "common problems" on the gas dryers that I should check for? I don't want to blindly purchase a new gas valve or igniter like I did last time, as I feel they should be OK since they were both recently replaced. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Troubleshooting tips? All modes work (tumble) as they should. . . . dryer just won't heat up. I haven't tried jumpering or disconnecting any of the sensors this time around. Was looking for advice before diving in again. I know how to take the entire machine apart, and have no issue getting to any of the components. Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide. KenB
Have a BOSCH Vision 500 Natural Gas Dryer. Dryer would not heat and could smell gas after trying to start. Dryer is approx 4-5 years old, but looks like new inside. Dryer tumbles fine and air dries, but burner will not ignite. Belt sensor is OK. Vent is clean and all lint has been removed from dryer and vent pipe. Wiring connectors are all fully seated and clean. Before I had time to take the dryer apart and attempt to diagnose the problem, I simply ordered a new igniter in hopes that that was the issue. Replaced igniter (Bosch #00491648) last night, but that was not the problem. Igniter glows red hot for perhaps 15-20 seconds, and then shuts off. Does not appear that gas burner even attempts to ignite. After I shut off dryer, I can smell gas. According to literature, it appears the Flame Sensor or the Gas Valve Coils may be at fault. Any thoughts on which one is at fault or how to check operation so I know what to order. Thank you in advance for your advice.
Hello,Gurus. I bought this dryer used and thought it would be an easy fix, thermal cutoff fuse tested bad so I replaced it. I then got the dryer to run and ignitor to light for a few seconds, but no gas. So I replaced the Two solenoids ( whirlpool sealed factory replacements) Same deal...no gas . Instead of a click when I turn the dryer on and heat is called for, I get a buzzing sound. The ignitor and switch both test out ok. What gives? I want to be sure it's the gas valve before I scrap this thing. I've never seen one go bad, but I think I've eliminated every other option. This particular dryer requires the whole valve assembly with pipe attached. I'm Not dropping the 200$ if that's it. Hopefully I missed something else....