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  • Upcoming Events

    • 07 December 2024 03:00 PM Until 04:00 PM
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      All Appliantology tech members are invited to join in the conversation for all things Appliantological: bidness, customers, tools, troubleshooting, flavorite brewski, whatever. Webcams and microphones are open and live!
      This event is also a great time for any students at Master Samurai Tech to bring any and all questions about the coursework. We're happy to walk through any concepts you're having trouble with. Think of it like office hours with your teachers. 
      Also, follow this Calendar Event so you'll get notified of new posts here. Look for the "Follow" button either at the top of the topic on desktop or below the topic on mobile.
      Who: This workshop is only available to tech members at Appliantology.
      When: Saturday, December 7 @10:00 AM Eastern Time.
      Where: Online via Zoom
      How:
      Click here to go to the forum topic with the registration link. If you're interested, register now. Arrive a couple minutes early to make sure your connection is working. Set a reminder for yourself for this workshop so you don’t miss it.  And check out past workshops here: https://appliantology.org/announcement/33-webinar-recordings-index-page/

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Posted

Hi. I'm very much an amateur but the dryer is all taken apart now, so there's no going back!
When Start is pressed, you hear a hum and drum doesn't turn, and the dryer doesn't go on. So I suspected the motor. At first I swear I saw a PF code briefly. Some people online say the thermistor can cause that error code although I'm not sure why that would be. 

When I went to diagnostic mode it said F01, which means control board apparently. I did the diagnostics per the tech sheet. 
The power to the motor on the control board was ok.
The thermal fuse was ok.
The thermistor had a reading of 16 ohms with a room temp of about 69, which according to the chart I saw means it's bad. It should be 10. It should be 16 at 60 degrees.
Per the tech sheet I checked the resistance on the motor and I got a reading of 0 on all three tests: main winding, start winding, and belt switch. Tech sheet says the readings should be somewhere between 3.3-3.6 (main), 2.7-3.0 (start), and from infinity to a few ohms as the pulley arm closes the switch. But I get zero on all 3. Am I doing them wrong? Some sites say the motor should be zero.

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  • 16345Ed

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  • alexakos

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  • lvasquez11

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  • nolazach

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Posted

Can you turn the drum by hand?

if something is stuck in blower it will do what you describe. 

If that's clear and you are getting voltage to motor, then you need a new motor more than likely. 

Posted

Now that's taken apart does motor turn freely.

take a look at the underside of control board, possible burnt area near motor relay.

Posted

Thanks! the drum turns by hand. I haven't taken the motor off yet but the blower is clear. I'm going to buy a new motor and try that 

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, alexakos said:

Thanks! the drum turns by hand. I haven't taken the motor off yet but the blower is clear. I'm going to buy a new motor and try that 

Did you verify voltage at motor?

motor won't run without power. 

You really should pull tech sheet and follow diagnostic procedures it will explain motor tests, etc

did you check that relay Ivasquez11 suggested?

 

Edited by 16345Ed
Posted

Jump the door switch, plug the motor harness to motor (if detached) put the control back on and try to start it.  What happens?

Check for power to motor at this point.  The motor has a start and run winding.  It starts with power from the start switch, once it starts spinning the centrifugal switch supplies constant power to the motor until it's power is cut by end of cycle or a bad thermal fuse.  Hearing a noise that it is trying to start is often a clogged or stuck fan, a bad start switch, a stuck drum and then lastly the motor.

  If you jump the door switch and turn it on it should run.  If it hums and you have power to motor, then your motor is bad.  If it runs at this point you know your problem was the drum.    I think from what you have described it could likely be the motor.  

   I didn't look it up, but does that model have a belt safety switch (does the belt pulley make contact with a switch under tension?)  Though that switch and the thermal fuse being bad would not allow power to the motor at all so you shouldn't hear anything.  

    The motors do fail, but check the cheaper things first.  The motors for Whirlpool aren't too expensive thankfully. 

Posted

Also if it is the motor you may want to pick up a blower wheel.  About 50% of the time they need chiseled off. 

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