Freezer/Fridge Too Warm - GE GSH25ISZB SS

[guruph]

Does anyone have experience with fixing this problem? I have a 5 year GE GSH25ISZB SS refrigerator freezer that is no longer cooling and performing as in the past. Freezer temp was -4F and refrigerator temp 34F. It now reads 19F and 38F respectively. I have no technical manuals, but I have attempted the following solution approach using what I located on the internet. Steps I have taken are as follows:

1. Cleaned the coils - it was loaded with dust
2. Checked the cooling fan - it is working
3. Listened to the compressor - I can hear it but don't know if what I'm hearing is correct

I would appreciate any expertise that you may provide. Not sure if it's necessary to replace this thing, but your assistance would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

[Hiroshi]

A clogged condenser coil can definitely affect freezer and fridge temps, but not usually by so much...

Wait 24 hours after your cleaning to see if the temps drop to normal, if they do not, you will have to check for a defrost failure, or worst case scenario, a sealed system failure of some type.

[Tim M]

 

How to troubleshoot warm refrigerator problems by reading the evaporator frost pattern

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/02/25/how-to-troubleshoot-warm-refrigerator-problems-by-reading-the-evaporator-frost-pattern/

 

Refrigerator Diagnosis and Repair: Ice, Frost, and Condensation

 

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2012/12/08/refrigerator-diagnosis-and-repair-ice-frost-and-condensation/

[guruph]

After waiting 24 hours the freezer temp only cooled to 17F and the refrigerator went down to 33. I also checked the back of the freezer for ice or frost. The freezer is completely clean and free of ice. The compressor is working, but the freezer does not appear to be getting cold enough. Any items I should check?

[Tim M]

Which of these photos does your frost pattern match:

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2011/02/25/how-to-troubleshoot-warm-refrigerator-problems-by-reading-the-evaporator-frost-pattern/

[Hiroshi]

Make sure the fan near the compressor is spinning at high speed- if it is, and you have a steady 17 degrees F in the freezer- then. pull the back wall of the freezer and look at the frost on the coils like Tim M suggests... if the frost is not nice and even across all the tubing- you have a refrigerant leak.

[Tim M]

Sorry if this is insulting, but since this is the DIY forum I thought I should be sure.  When Hiroshi says pull of the back wall of the freezer, he means inside the freezer.  That means take out all the food, take out the shelves, remove panel behind the shelves.  If the defrost cycle has just run, you may have to wait for it to try to cool down again to read the pattern.  If only a small part of the coils is frosted, and that rather thickly with the rest bare, then it's a sealed system failure and time for a new fridge if this one cost less than a grand or two.  Also possible that the defrost heater isn't working and the coils are so heavily frosted the cold can't get through.  Less likely, but an easier fix.

[guruph]

No you didn't come across as insulting, which I am grateful and I am no expert. Just trying to save some money if I can. I took your advice and pulled the back panel and there is frost accumulated on the bottom of the coils only. How do you attach a photo in this forum? 

[guruph]

I also checked the speed of the cooling fan near the compressor and it is rotating at a high speed with strong air blowing from the back and front of the unit.

[Tim M]

1 hour ago, guruph said:

 How do you attach a photo in this forum? 

When you reply, it will say below where you type "drag files here to attach" just drop them right into the text area.  Or also you can click on "choose files" and navigate to them.  Is that not there for you?  If not, I wonder if it is not in the DIY area and only for paid subscribers.

[guruph]

I only have the option to insert existing attachment, which is disabled, and insert from URL. If I could post a picture it would show that the bottom 3rd of the coils have ice, which is not over iced and the remainder of the coil has nothing on it. Looks new. A local neighbor told me it was low on Freon, but I'm not sure of that.

 

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Grasshoppah's/unpaid members can't post pictures.

You would need to post the picture to a file sharing/photo site, (IE: like PhotoBucket, or Google photos), and post a link to your picture in your message here.

[guruph]

Thank you.  Here's the url to the pictures https://goo.gl/photos/58J42FFdzoQcRLf38  Let me know if you can see the picture.

 

[guruph]

This one has two pictures. Coil full length and a close-up of the bottom half. Am I simply low on Freon? Any suggestions about what I could check? Thanks for your help thus far. https://goo.gl/photos/LLw6x9gBPKNiqiFo8 

[Tim M]

     Don't go on my say so, wait for Budget Appliance Repair or someone else with more experience (and more dots under their name) to confirm this, but my guess is that unless this is a really expensive refrigerator, it's not worth fixing and is trash now.  Putting more freon in, will probably just leak out again.  This looks like a sealed system failure and it is time go shopping as the fix will be about the same cost as a new one.

[certified tech group 51]

low side leak,  A slow leak, ( but depends  what your version of slow is)...if you have all the equipment  to do it correctly, I would  pull a vacuum and add a charge..On the refers I repair, I add to the back of the units, the date,  Type of refrigerant and the charge amount , ( I do not list what was changed)......If  the recharge  lasts a year I would keep the unit, just recharge, if it needs a recharge in two months, I would recharge, then start looking for another refer..... 

[guruph]

Sincere thanks to each of you for your expertise and advice. We purchased the unit in early 2011. Only lasted about 6 years which seems short. If I do replace the unit do you have a recommended unit or brand that is most reliable? I've heard horrible things about Samsung. Should I purchase an extended warranty or those just gimmicks? Thank you.

[Tim M]

 

Recommendations below.

I know with Samsung you can't find anyone to work on it around here.

[johntech]

I would double check your warranty. I have seen them have up to a 5 year sealed system warranty parts and labor and a 10 year sealed system warranty parts only.

[Hiroshi]

Decision Time.  The last fridge I bought was a single evaporator Whirlpool, it is doing just fine.

[guruph]

Latest update. I learned that my new fridge won't be in stock and delivered until the 26th. In the meantime, I decided to apply your expertise and a few web resources to potentially fixing my current fridge and maybe cancel the new one. If the fix does not work, then I'll just accept the new unit. Here is what I've done thus far:

1. Purchased and installed a Supco Bullet Piercing Valve (BPV), a Enviro-Safe 3226 Can Tap with Gauge r134a can to R12/R22 Port, and a 12oz can of Johnsen R134a refrigerant - Link to photos of items

2. I installed the BPV valve on the low side copper tube, then installed the gaugee--which showed very low refrigerant around 1lbs-- attached the refrigerant and slowly emptied the can keeping the valve pressure at 5-lbs. This took about an hour but I emptied the can with no issues

3. The gauge showed approx. 4-lbs when I closed the valve on the empty can, recommended capacity is 5.5 lbs. The high side pipe was cold with ice on it, and the freezer temperature dropped from 22F down to as low as 8 degrees. Right now it is at 11F. The current freezer setting is -2F and the refrigerator is 35F. See link of photos of the high side pipes with ice. 

For now I will let it run overnight and see if the temperature holds. Tomorrow I will pull the inside cover and check the freezer coil. Will post photo afterwards. Question - Do I need to keep the pressure at 5-lbs when filling it with Freon? I believe this is why it takes so long to fill. Any other advice? I really appreciate the site and your assistance thus far. Thank you. 

[Hiroshi]

Refrigerant fills go by ounces, many techs literally weigh the supply tank to see how much they have used - and the pressures that the high and low side should be at are listed on the model number tag along with how many ounces of 134a the unit holds.

If you fill the system while the machine is running, it will generally accept the exact amount of refrigerant it needs to stop "pulling vacuum."

The freezer temp and frost pattern should let you know if you have success- it should keep a steady 0 degrees F. From your description of the charging process, it is hard to say, but if it is overcharged it will not achieve 0 degrees.

[Tim M]

Guruph,

     This is impressive.  Though my appliance repair work was part time, and I wasn't certified for sealed-system work, I never would have considered doing this.  You're pretty ambitious.  On the other hand, in those cases clients would have had to pay me a fair amount for the chance it would get going again, and it wasn't worth putting their cash at risk even if I had wanted to do it.

[guruph]

Thanks Tim H and Hiroshi-

Well the freezer is cooler. Temp went as low as 8F, but is now holding at 13F. The Fridge is at 33F. My ice cream and ice pops are not freezing solid, so I guess this means I have a block or still have a slow leak. The ice maker is working but it appears it's time to let the fridge go to the great appliance city in the sky unless you have any other recommendations. Really appreciate your assistance and I will definitely recommend this site to other fiy'ers.

Thank you!

 

[Hiroshi]

no reason it cannot cool beer for the summer... If it holds 8 degrees for 6 months you made a good poke at it!