Inglis Model RO44080 (Canadian) Belt-Drive Washer Pump Doesn't Spin-Might It Be Rehabilitated?!

[dazedandconfused]

Hi guys and gals,

   I have a 41-year old Inglis, belt-drive washer (washing machine) which has only let me down once before in all those many years! That was 10 years ago and I simply (well, fairly simply anyway) replaced the motor with a good, used one. Now, the machine won't drain when it is supposed to and I have determined that the drain pump shaft (with the pulley on top) isn't turning when the washer goes into drain mode! Since a new drain pump for something this old is hard to get a hold of and it is almost half the cost of a 'replacement' used washer, I am exploring the idea of 'rehabbing' the pump! Does anyone know if that might that be possible and, if so, can someone provide me with some pointers on how to do it (e.g., remove it, take it apart, clean all the parts and then give the shaft some good. old 3-in-1)?!

TIA,

dazedandconfused

[Budget Appliance Repair]

If I remember correctly the Inglis belt-drive washers are the old original Whirlpool belt drive washer (95405 belt) - I'm I correct?

Depending on the age of the pump there's nothing that can be done to really refurbish them when locked up - the older ones had clips that held the pump bottom cover on and you could get to the impeller, other then that it would be unscrewing the pump pulley and trying to oil the shaft bushing and getting it to free up.

If this is the style of washer I'm thinking it is there are 3 different pumps for those - a 2 port, 3 port and 4 port.  The 2 port is the most common.   I have a brand new 3 port that you can block off the 3rd small port that recirculates water to the tub ring lint filter and use it in place of some of the 2 ports, (It comes in the kit with a stopper and clamp for the small port, the inlet/outlets are a different offset then the standard 2 port if I remember correctly).

I haven't looked these pump up for many years - thought they were still available in aftermarket for reasonable prices but I could be wrong.   The 3 port that I have, if you wanted it I would sale it for $33 + shipping, (if you live in the US). EDITED to add: looks like Amazon carries the aftermarket of this pump from $29.95 to $33.95 with free shipping.

Here's the one I have, (genuine OEM FSP pump never used in original box with date code of 2/17/1998 - I purchased in 2015 for a job I ended up not doing, centerpost of basket ended up being rotted out).
Part number: 285317

 

The 2 port pump is:
Part number: 350365

$36 to $63 on Amazon with free shipping

 

The 4 port one is:
Part number: 350367

New ones on Ebay OEM $16.50 or best offer with free shipping up to $60+

Lots of all 3 styles on Ebay for very reasonable prices.

Edited September 13, 2020 by Budget Appliance Repair

[Jimd2]

I would GRAB the pump he has if you can use it, 1998 pump would run for 20 years + if oiled every 3 years

Aftermarket dont hold up

Blue pumps to me are aftermarket or knockoff even if marked oem and are soso look for the gray/yellow ish pumps

like in the top picture

The oem where able to be oiled with a zoom spout as they had a bushing with felt to hold the oil

[dazedandconfused]

Thanks for your quick input, guys! The P/N for the original pump assembly was 20052809 (the one that is still in the washer now 41 years later), substituted by P/N 350365 (which is one of the pump assemblies in 'Budget Appliance Repair's reply). I don't recall reading anything in the manuals that came with the washer about lubricating the pump regularly, perhaps because it takes some effort to access the pump and probably a special 'lubricator' (zoom spout?) to do the actual oiling. After the input I have received, I am now somewhat inclined to pull the pump assembly and see if I can't convince it to 'unseize'. Although I don't expect a new pump assembly to last anywhere near 41 years (and I don't need it to last that long because we are probably going to be replacing both the washer and dryer in the next 2 - 3 years), I would be looking at paying about $115 Cdn for it, including shipping (remember, I live in CANADA!). Therefore, if the 'unseizing' doesn't work, I might just try to find a working, used washer for $150 - 200, expecting to get something for it when I am done with it. I really don't like throwing things away!!

Should there b a comma between "soso" and "look" in your reply? In other words, the 'gray/yellow ish' aftermarket pumps are considered better than the 'blue' ones!

dazedandconfused

[Budget Appliance Repair]

14 hours ago, dazedandconfused said:

the 'gray/yellow ish' aftermarket pumps are considered better than the 'blue' ones!

The other way around - The gray/yellowish OEM pumps are better then the blue aftermarket ones.

Does your pump have the 8 to 9 clips around the bottom of the pump so you can open it up?  If it is lockup already the pulley should unscrew, (normal counter clockwise direction).  Oil the bushing with ZOOM or 3-n-1 oil.   If the bottom pump cover comes off, (yours is old enough that it may be that style of build), you might be able to work it back and forth and free it up.

These were not designed for any maintenance to be done on them, just replace when they fail.  If someone is mechanical and so inclined to get under their washer every couple years and oil the pump bushing it may last forever if you started when it was new or only 3 or 4 years old.

Two on Ebay:

One says used but really is NOS, (New Old Stock - NIB, New In Box) and they ship to Canada $21.00 + $23.21 shipping to Canada)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-FSP-KENMORE-WHIRLPOOL-WASHING-MACHINE-PUMP-350365-SEALED-WASHER-DRAIN-PUMP/173871560508?epid=0&hash=item287b8d773c:g:hp8AAOSwT8JauvL0&shqty=1&isGTR=1#shId

The other is actually located in Swan River, Manitoba, Canada, (depending on where you are maybe free local pickup) $24.99 + $23.00 Ship
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-Washer-Belt-Drive-Water-Pump-2-Port-350365/392848134412?hash=item5b7792d10c:g:Qn4AAOSwYgle8Ldz

The above prices are USD prices so of course CAD prices would be about 30% higher putting you around $65 total.

 

[dazedandconfused]

Hi again Guys and Gals,

   Well, I finally got around to pulling the water pump from the washer (it has the 'clips' that Budget Appliance Repair mentioned in his initial reply but I was worried that I wouldn't be able to get a replacement gasket if I took it apart! It took some effort to deal with parts in the way and then 'giggling' to get the pump out and it was definitely hard to turn the first time I tried! I had read that the was a 'wick' on the side of the shaft near the top of the pump but, initially, I could not find it! After handling the pump a number of times and using bright light, I found a metal chamber (part of the shaft collar) just under the pulley and I put oil into it several times over the next day or so. The shaft eventually started turning much more freely (still required a small amount of force). Everything looked good so I began the somewhat arduous task of putting it back together - those wire hose clamps can be a bug*er to release and slide (especially with only 1 arm under the washer)! Finally, finally, success!!

Now I just had to connect the supply hoses, the drain hose and the wall power. RATS!! While the washer was level when I started the work, when i went to push the washer back into place, there was considerable resistance from the lino floor so I had to try lifting the back a few inches while pushing (didn't think of putting dish soap on the feet until after). Somewhere in this process, the self-levelling legs on the back went out of level (a difference of about 2 inches) and now I can't get them to go back in level! I've tried raising the back of the washer and tapping on the 'longer' leg, I've tried using penetrating oil on the shorter leg (shows some rust, especially on the  'foot' and lower shaft) and then I've tried raising the back of the washer about 3 to 4" and letting it go - but nothing has worked!. I am SO close after all this work and my wife would really like to do a laundry at home for once.

Any suggestions on how I can get that troublesome left back leg to raise (or the right back one to drop)?!? Thanx in advance for any ideas/suggestions!!

dazed and confused

[dazedandconfused]

Hi again,

   Is there really no one on here who has ever dealt with the self-levelling leg system on a 41-year old Inglis 2-speed, 5 cycle washing machine? As I have already said, I have tried everything I could think of (dropping the back of the washer from 3 - 4", tapping on the 'resisting' legs with a hammer, poking sharp objects up through the slots adjacent to where the legs pass through the steel frame, etc.) and nothing seems to work!! My wife really wanted to do laundry so I, using a wood 'lifter' on the short back leg [see photo] and screwing out the front legs to match the 'stuck', high, back leg, was able to make the washer somewhat level and stable - I'm a little worried about this during the 'spin' cycle! I would really like to be able to fix this "once and for all"! Please chime in if you have nay knowledge of how this particular self-levelling system works so that I can make it right permanently! Thnx

dazedandconfused

[Gnominator77]

I've seen many of these self levelling legs jammed. Try tapping the foot on the right with a hammer from the inside. That will usually reset the levelling system. Make sure you are tipping the washer to the front to get the weight off the back legs. Good luck.

[dazedandconfused]

Thanks for your reply! I have already tried 'tapping' both back legs with a hammer (from the inside with the washer lifted onto blocks as shown in the first picture) and it didn't help!! I had also lubricated the 'shorter' back leg (it moved less freely than the longer one and seemed 'stuck', even though the back legs were level before I began pushing the washer back into its 'spot', after finishing unseizing the water pump). I have been looking for information on exactly how the self-levelling mechanism looks/works inside those metal 'shrouds' around the rear leg shafts but haven't found much except some documents about self-levelling mechanism patent applications (just not the one that I have, yet). It appears that the rod with the a 'shroud' on each end would move horizontally and the 'pins' on the leg shafts would move in tandem along the 'reverse image' inclines created by the shroud. However, this revelation has not yet afforded me any way to get the mechanism 'unstuck'!! Again, any relevant experience/comments/suggestions would be most appreciated!!

dazedandconfused