All Activity

Hi Brian. Thanks so much for the reply. Yes, the drum does not turn (I did as you instructed). I will open up the dryer and check on the belt and/or belt mechanism. Hopefully, it'll be one of these - the easiest one preferred - and I'll clean as well while I'm there. I'll keep you posted. ~Joey

Any update? I'm working on one of these now. Customer said the display is flashing and won't respond to anything. Cycling power will allow it to work for a while, but it eventually happens again.

This may not be the exact dryer but it comes apart the same way.

Sounds like the motor is running. Is the drum turning? Open the door, hold the door switch closed and start the dryer. The drum should be turning. If not, mostly likely cause would be a broken belt (#341241) or the belt idler popped out of position, or the belt drive pulley broke or came off of the motor shaft. Easy fix and certainly worth repairing if that's all it is.

The attachment is just a sound recording of the sound it makes. Hopefully, it'll help in diagnosing the issue.

Manufacturer: LG Type of Appliance: Washer Model Number: WT8480CL Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I’m working on the new LG top load and would like to see the tech manual. thank you.

Is this worth fixing? Dryer only makes a "whrrring" noise (as if it's working normally) but does not spin or generate heat, no matter what setting I put it in. Appreciate any help. Non working dryer.mp4

Here is the video showing the oven and the test I did at the heating element. oven.MOV

Uses this tech sheet: May have some similarities to Parts of this manual:

Hi Vee 8. hope repairing has been good with you. thanks for reaching out. Yes I did google the board and I had pulled up the same video you had sent. This mounted board under neath is not quite like the normal ones they have . it is actually comprised of 3 parts. The board , the housing , and the 3rd part is a square plastic mounting type of bracket that themouldehousing goes into. wiring harness is attached to external molded clips that are moulded into the side of housing, Another tech I know in my area couldn't get the board out and asked for my help. Not sure why he had a hard time figuring it out. The boards are designed to come out through the kick plate but and I have done the one in the video you sent many times. I told him I would help him out next week. If I recall . I believe I did one of these several years ago. so I know its coming out through the kick board area.I think If I remember correctly the wiring harness is so tight and attached to the under side of the refrigerator that you can only slide it out like a 3rd of the way out of the brkt and it wouldn't come out any further. I believe the wiring harness has to be pulled out of the clips first and then slide it out . i think it will not slide out all the way and you really have to pull the housing forward enough to the point you think your going to rip wires or cut something out of the wire harness connection but it will eventually give you enough room to replace the board. I believe I also looked into the back mechanical room area to see if there might of been a clip on the wiring harness in the mechanical room that might have been needed to be released to give it more slack to come out of the bottom front easier but did not see anything. In the end If I remember correctly. I think I had to just pull on the harness connection heavily to the point that you think your going to break something and it stretches out from the kickplate area to where you barely get enough room to remove the board or the board and housing to disconnect it. I was surprised the tech couldn't get it out and needed help. I was basically wondering if there was a simpler way of getting it out through the kit plate area. I will post back here what I actually experienced taking it out at the bottom kick plate and update that back here. Thanks again for chiming in here.

Thanks again!!!

Thank you for your reply. I did replace the oven control board and got the same results: IMG_4525.mov 120V from each end to ground, and 0V across the two terminals

Looks like you need this one Clint

Manufacturer: Kenmore Type of Appliance: Dishwasher Model Number: 66513222N412 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes Thanks in advance!!!

@Waddah A If you have 240V at the terminal but 0V at the bake element, check the oven control board relay. It's possible for the relay to click without supplying voltage at the terminal, indicating a faulty relay on the board. In this case, replace the oven control board or faulty relay if the board is no longer available or is on backorder.

Thanks for that Sam.

Update on this - Repair Clinic now lists only 1 motor/pump for this model, from what I have been told this should not be the problem. Recently I was told they used one pump/motor for models prev to 1988, and a different one after that. My DW should be in the later group, I think built around 1980. I was told it sounds like a faulty timer - I looked at the number it was supposed to do on Repair Clinic, they don't have it - found it new on ebay - same model number as Repair Clinic had listed as, the 672 - I noticed that I couldn't get that previously at RC, so that order had been cancelled, and the timer I had bought of ebay shows as numbers WD21X626, WD21X0626,271598. Were these 3 latter model numbers NOT compatible with the GSD940-L-02? Is that why the water pumps out, then the motor continues to run during the drying cycle?

Hi everyone, I’m working on a Kenmore French-door fridge (model 970-705036) and the water dispenser isn’t working. Here’s what I’ve checked so far: Hi everyone, I’m working on a Kenmore French-door fridge (model 970-705036) and the water dispenser isn’t working. Here’s what I’ve checked so far: Replaced the entire water valve assembly Verified that the main inlet valve gets 120V when pressing the paddle (I hear the solenoid click) But no water comes out of the dispenser Also, the water filter LED is on I'm suspecting it might be a clogged or faulty water filter, but before I order a new one, I wanted to confirm with you guys — could it still be a bad filter housing or something else I’m overlooking? Thanks in advance for any help!

Hey everyone, I’m working on an LG electric range (model LSC883WS) and the oven won’t heat on Bake. Here’s what I’ve confirmed: 240V confirmed at the terminal block Both black and red legs show 120V to ground Bake relay clicks when I start a bake cycle But at the element terminals, I only get 120V from each end to ground, and 0V across the two terminals Bake element tests good for continuity All wiring looks intact, but I'm still not getting 240V across the element

Manufacturer: Whirlpool Type of Appliance: Dishwasher Model Number: Wdf331pahs1 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I

Given the age of your Whirlpool (14 years), it's right on the edge of what’s worth throwing parts at. If the freezer’s cold but the fridge is warm, it’s likely an airflow issue—either a failed evaporator fan, blocked vent, or defrost system problem (frost buildup blocking air to the fridge). The defrost thermostat and wiring harness (WPW10290745) could be the culprit, but at $65–$200, you’re gambling on a maybe. Before spending that, check if the evaporator fan is running and make sure there’s no ice buildup blocking vents. If the fan’s dead or there's frost, it might be worth replacing the part—but only if you're comfortable with DIY. Otherwise, you’re better off putting that money toward a new unit.

Thanks!

Model Number: PS950SF2SS Brand: GE Age: More than 10 years My trouble-free GE range now has a problem. The center element of the 12-inch 3-element burner is not heating. A repair shop came out and replaced the burner. The middle element is still not heating. They say the problem is the control panel. PROBLEM: the control panel is no longer available, not even pre-owned on Ebay. Questions: 1 - is there a source for this item [part # WB27X21437] that I haven't thought of? 2 - is there a possible setting change or relay replacement that could address this issue? [note, it took the techs a couple tries to wire the burner into the board correctly] Thanks -- Bob

Here you go: Uses this mini manual: