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The measured single speed compressor running current is .80 Amps with the doors open @73 ambient. I can't find what the running current should be for this compressor. Anyone know what the compressor running current should be for GE GFE28GSKKSS?

Manufacturer: Haier Type of Appliance: Dishwasher Model Number: dwl2825sdss Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes Haier dwl2825sdss dishwasher service manual please. Thank you.

Thank you

Here you go: May have some similarities to this manual:

Manufacturer: GE Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: DFE28JMKGES Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Need manual/ tech sheet

Going to one of these tomorrow. Customer complaint is fresh food section not cooling. Did you solve your issue on this? If so what was your solution?

can't find a service manual online for this unit, I will send an email to the manager for US and let you know if he can find anything about it! (maybe the unit is old, I can see parts breakdown and wiring only)

Thanks for the info

@Captain Dunsel I appreciate your time checking on that for me. Thanks again.

Manufacturer: Summit Type of Appliance: Refrigerator Model Number: FFBF181ESIM Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes Looking for parts diagram plus service manual. Highly appreciate your help!

No service manual on ServiceMatters for this one. Only the tech sheet:

Manufacturer: Whirlpool Type of Appliance: Dryer Model Number: WED8000DW4 Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): Yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): Yes I have the tech sheet. I’m looking for the service manual. Thanks

Universal Electronic Timer UET120 Most Popular Defrost Timings View File Lists of defrost timer part #'s with specific defrost cycles times listed so that you can substitute with other part #'s that have the same defrost time schedule. Or use the Supco UET 120 adjustable electronic defrost timer and set it to match the original part. Submitter David1 Submitted 05/10/2024 Category Appliance Repair Manual Pot Luck Supper  

Wow, can't shut off ice maker. If that happened to me after I decided to end the madness I'd probably take a stick of dynamite to it. After cooler heads prevailed, and turning it off didn't stay off, id unplug the ice maker behind that left panel. I would imagine that would shut it all down. Odd the off indicator doesn't stay off though. Have you tried locking the panel to see if that works. As you know it's really easy to bump the panel. We still use it for water dispensing though, yet as said, ice maker retired. Screw that thing all to hell, just had enough. Spent way to much money, time and frustration on that piece of shit. Thankfully the rest of the system still works good, knock on wood.

No worries, thanks for the reply @V P tech!

Dang, that's what I was afraid of! But I really appreciate your reply! I took off the flapper and cleaned that all up.. Tried taking the seal off the door to see if it needed to be reseated, broke one of the clips holding it down.. but it's not going anywhere, so i'm ignoring that. Funny thing is, I try shutting off the ice maker on the screen, and after about 2 hours it turns itself back on.

LG LRDCS2603S Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay Thermistor Can someone help me find this part number and where I can order it?

Please keep searching I am still in need.

Going from a single speed to two speed is completely doable - I just did one. But as you have found - the wire colors don't match up at all between the two, (I had never done this before - doing appliance repair for 39 years and assumed they would be the same except for the slow speed which is the ORANGE wire). You can easily go from a two speed motor to one speed also but just have to make sure you don't try to use the low speed, (if you do, the motor will surge since it always starts on the hi speed and goes to low speed when the motor switch opens to remove the start windings from the circuit it also switches open the points for hi speed and the power for low speed on the ORANGE wire takes over). You washer only has two buttons form speed control - the timer settings are the same for both - just never push the GENTLE/GENTLE button or make a wire jumper to bridge from hi-speed wire to the ORANGE low speed wire so as it's in hi-speed no matter which of the speed switches/buttons are pushed in. You are correct that BLACK on the two speed motor is the hi/reg-speed. If I remember correctly the only wire color that goes to the same color on both motors is the WHITE wire. I've only got a wiring diagram for a two speed motor which you should have with your machine. You need to find a diagram for a Maytag with a single speed motor to find which wires to swap, (the diagram for the one speed motor was with the machine I swapped motors on and that is where I marked the changes). I will see if I can find a one speed motor wiring diagram to attach here and that you should get you going. EDITED to add pictures and wire swaps: Two Speed------------One Speed Wiring-----------------Wiring YEL ------------------ BLK - Neutral (Thru Overload) WHT ----------------- WHT - Neutral (Direct) BRN ------------------ BLU - Start RED ------------------ YEL - Start ORG ------------------ Open (Slow Speed) Leave off or attach with BLK BLK ------------------ RED (HI/Reg Speed) If the motor runs in the wrong direction for spin and agitate then swap the BRN and RED wires.

Model Number: KEBC278KSS03 I had some electrical work done at my house yesterday and when the power was restored, the oven is showing an E1 F5 error code on the display panel. The upper oven will not work but the lower oven will. I've tried cycling the breaker and cutting power to the unit for up to 15 minutes but the error code will not clear. This happened a few years ago after a power outage and I was able to find a procedure online to reset the panel by pressing a combination of buttons on the control panel, but I can't find it anywhere. Any recommendations?

Hello everyone, hoping for some advice about my problem. Noticed warm fridge a few days ago in this GE GFE28GSKKSS model with separate evaporator for the fridge section. Freezer seemed to be holding temp fine -4 deg, but fridge was ~46-48 deg. Before doing anything I cleaned of the condenser. Found the mini service diagnostic pages and ran some of the tests. Evaporator fan wouldn't run. I ordered a replacement fan and installed it. It is possible the old one was iced up and not bad, I couldn't get the cover off at first, and ice may have been why. The new one runs fine in fan test 47 and in cooling test 95. After the new fan was in the fridge for two days I took the cover off and looked for ice and there was only the lightest trace of frost on the evaporator. So then I tested the thermistors from the top of the fridge and the fridge evaporator. Took both out and tested them in ice water both tested 16.2K ohms same as a new one I got. installed both back in with solder sticks. With the fridge at room temp for a couple of hours the temp tests 24 and 26 both read just over 70 degrees. After restarting the fridge and letting it stabilize the upper thermistor read 46 degrees same as a thermometer I put in the fridge. At that point the evaporator temp test said ~33 deg. Cooling air blows fine in the fridge when running test 95 so I don't think icing is the issue. Other than when running test 47 or 95 I don't feel airflow in the fridge. If I run test 00 it comes up with error codes 0010 001o and 000d So at that point I decided the control board was likely the culprit and got one. Installed new control board and no change. Freezer fine, Icemaker works. Fridge still too warm. Today did a real thorough job of vacuum brushing out the condenser then I checked the temperature of the hot and cold side of the condenser. Ambient in the house was 72, the compressor discharge was 102, and the cold side of the condenser was 74 degrees. I noted that the first error code says there is an issue with the icemaker thermistor. There isn't much slack in the wiring for the icemaker thermistor, so I really don't want to cut it out to test. Could a problem with the icemaker thermistor cause a warm fridge? I had the icemaker off for a couple of days for whatever that is worth with no change in the warm fridge issue. I still have the spare thermistor and could test and or replace that icemaker thermistor but don't want to fool with it, unless it is likely the source of my warm fridge problem. At this point I am out of ideas..

No never did. Did what was suggested Plus so many more things. I finally just had enough and shut off the ice maker via front panel and bought a countertop ice maker. Best idea ever, just couldn't take it anymore. Id highly suggest you do the same and save your blood pressure and sanity. Sorry I didn't have any better news.

Uses this manual:

Manufacturer: samsung Type of Appliance: refrigerator Model Number: rf263beaesr /aa Have you validated the model number at an online parts site like Repair Clinic? (yes or no): yes Have you watched the video on how to search for manuals and have you searched the Downloads section prior to posting this request? (yes or no): yes tech sheet needed

Just wondering if you ever got this fixed? This appears to be a huge issue across the board with many of the Samsung fridges. Mine is doing the exact same thing. I tried adding some 1/2 backer rod and it ended up sitting too high and when i closed the door, the gasket would fold up. When i cut the backer rod in half, it didn't do enough. There didn't seem to be an exact sweet spot, but I, like you, can see light coming from around the gasket when shined up the chute. My ice box is also has a crack in it.. seems like another issue a lot of people have. The gaskets are like $50 from Samsung, and I'm having trouble justifying that for such a common issue that they aren't willing to admit to.