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GE Profile Artica Side-by-Side Model: PSS26SGRESS The front-facing surface of the center partition btwn fridge/freezer compartments measures a 115° from top to bottom. The consistency in temperature leads me to believe this is by design, perhaps auto-defrost or similar, though no one in this family of four has ever noticed the phenomenon over the years. I used an IR camera to confirm extents of heated surface. Heat is NOT detected in door, at or near the thru-door dispenser and limited to door seal mating surface of freezer compartment. I used a IR thermometer to confirm 115° surface temperature along cabinet partition. The parts diagram shows no heat elements in the cabinet. Unit documentation doesn't advise the possibility of feeling heat from the fridge surfaces beneath the door seals. Were the heat caused by a defrost cycle, I would expect it to disappear. However, the surface has been hot to the touch for the past three days. I'm stumped. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Hello, I have an old Maytag dryer that wont heat. I am no expert and have been working through this with Youtube videos. Its very possible I am doing something wrong This is what I have checked so far: On back panel where power comes in: Leg 1 Neutral to hot = 115V Leg 2 Neutral to hot = 115V Both thermal fuses have continuity Both thermostats (Cycling and Hi-Limit) have continuity Heating element resistance = 10.6 ohms No short from heating element input to case No short from heating element output to case Temperature selector out voltage to chassis ground = 115V when running Heating element voltage to chassis ground = 115V on both input and out sides when running (getting desperate here) Could it be the switch in the motor that closes when it spins? I moved that switch by hand and got continuity across the terminals but I am not sure how to test while the dryer is running. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks George

Hello. I have a Kenmore Elite HE5 steam electric dryer, model 110.87729701. The hot air stopped working; everything else runs fine. My wife and I had an appliance repairman come out to the house, and he replaced the thermal fuse and heating coils. When he left the house, the dryer was working -- we had hot air again. But when we tried placing a small load of laundry in the dryer, the hot air wouldn't come on. If we took out the clothes and left it empty, then the hot air would come on. We also tried placing dry bedding sheets inside the dryer, and the hot air came on again. Something is happening where, if we have damp clothes inside the drum, the hot air won't come on. I checked the two metal strips near the vent that sense temperature, and they are clean. Does anyone have advice? I'm hoping not to have to replace the dryer. Thank you!

1.5 year old Bluestar freestanding gas range door would not close completely. This allowed heat to escape, resulting in uneven cooking temps and extremely hot knobs. (not talking about my wife!) The Chief of Staff insisted the installer had repaired it with a "long skinny screwdriver" without removing the door. Well, After many beers and on-line researching sessions, I decided a few things! 1. Bluestar definitely has a door "problem" 2. I didn't want to pay for a new door 3. We live in the sticks 4. The damn thing should work! So, I did the only thing any red-blooded American member of the Samurai Appliantology Academy would do, decided to disassemble the door and finger it out. What I discovered, is Bluestar has a design flaw in the interior of it's doors (at least on 2010 models). The hinge assy spring rods (guessing at nomenclature, don't have a manual) float freely within the door. However, as you can see when closing, at full extension the ends of the bars contact the sheet metal heat shield. I flexed the heat shield out of the way, which allowed the springs to extend fully, which allowed the hinge cam rollers to complete their throw, thereby closing the door firmly . I removed the door by releasing the receivers on each hinge then pulling the door from the oven. I then removed the Door Cover by removing all retaining screws (10). After placing the door on a smooth covered surface ("Don't scratch the damn paint", she said with vigor!), I used a Dremel with hardened cutting wheel to cut an approximate 1/4" incision on the heat shield on both sides ( Cut with the blade rotating in a direction which doesn't throw debris into the fireproof mat material underneath the sheet metal heat shield ) Then I reinstalled the door minus cover (note: the door without the weight of the installed cover will snap closed, requires more attention and less beer to perform). Opening the door slightly allowed me to compress the springs enough to attach a vise grip to the tabs created by the cuts and bend them outwards slightly at approx 25deg angle This angle allowed enough clearance between the heat shield and the back of the door cover, and also formed a ramp upon which the spring rods ride closed. I then removed the door, attached the cover and reinstalled the door. Worked perfectly, door closed completely, wife happy (the most important result ), no more hot knobs! I also think the first repairman knew the problem and used a long skinny screwdriver to free the guide ends. Of course, the next time we opened the door they flexed out and came to rest on the fire shield. I think maybe he was expecting another service call??? At any rate, after much searching on the web, there are a ton of complaints about Bluestar doors. Hope they find us here! Cheers!